On Apr 10, 2006, at 10:47 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
First, thanks again to all the commented on this problem, lots of
valuable insight.
Bottom line, it is running fine now. I opened up the thermostat
housing, the radiator plug, the plug to the engine block, hoses to
and from the heat
I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the
radiator hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I
think there is a ton of rust in this engine. What is the routine for
getting rid of all of this ? Is one acid flush typically enough ?
What about using a Pre
I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the radiator
hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I think there is
a ton of rust in this engine. What is the routine for getting rid of all
of this ? Is one acid flush typically enough ? What about using a
Pre
On Apr 5, 2006, at 9:14 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Johnny B. said:
"Have you considered checking to see if the thermostat has junk in it
or it's stuck from a reaction to the acid flush? Are your belts
tight?"
I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the
radiator ho
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 8:14 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Johnny B. said:
"Have you considered checking to see if the thermostat has junk in it
or it's stuck from a reaction to the acid flush? Are your belts tight?"
I wil
Johnny B. said:
"Have you considered checking to see if the thermostat has junk in it
or it's stuck from a reaction to the acid flush? Are your belts tight?"
I will look into that. I should mention that when I replaced the radiator
hoses, rubber right ? They had a layer of rust in there. I
On Apr 4, 2006, at 4:21 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
1. checking the weep hole on the water pump and the sound of the
water pump and
2. Checking that the small tube that sends coolant to the head is
clear.
I think I will also check the connection of the temp sensor.
Thanks to everyone tha
Marshall Wrote:
"The most usual cause of what you describe is a BIG air bubble in the
cooling system. Did you have the heater heat on full when filling the
system? Did you finally fill the system thru the top radiator hose? That
allows air to be expelled when nothing else works."
I did not d
: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 12:35 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Tom Potter mentioned that I might have a blocked "u tube between head and
water pump". I will look into that before I start ordering par
Many times an attempted flush will cause plugging in the radiator because of
loose stuff, its a delayed reaction.
My procedure it to remove the radiator, flush everything I can, forward and
reverse with a hose, including the removed radiator. When it all looks
clear, put it back together and do t
Tom Potter mentioned that I might have a blocked "u tube between head and water
pump". I will look into that before I start ordering parts.
The fact that my water pump is very rusty really sticks out since everything
else is oily. That point is hard for me to get around. And that the coolant
300D - 263kmi (Sportline)
> --
> Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 11:04:12 -0400
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
>
> >New Question:
>
> I guess the sensor is located on the top of the motor very near
> the thermostat housing with one wire attached ?
checking the actual temperature of the head. I am thinking I should
just change the sensor.
Why potentially waste money? Check the temperature first, and replace
the sender if it's wrong.
Tom Potter said "the rust will form a mild abrasive destroying pump
seals" this sounds like what might h
Um, I think you found the problem - water can not cool an engine by
itself -
you need a 50/50 blend of antifreeze / water.
Water is an excellent coolant, even better than a glycol mix. It has
other problems however, such as corrosion, freezability, and it can boil
too easily under high heat co
clutch
not to engage is also important... you need good airflow through rad &
condenser fins, AND there cannot be a "cool spot" in the radiator
directly ahead of the clutch.
:)
+dm
> --------------
> Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 07:33:52 -0700
> Subject: Re: [MB
. The other thing I should mention is that I am using water for coolant
right now as I track down MB Coolant. Not sure if that would explain my
problem. Seems unlikely since it was working fine.
Um, I think you found the problem - water can not cool an engine by itself -
you need a 50/50 ble
Thanks to all who responded! To answer a few questions:
Dimitri asked if I had re-checked the coolant level. Yes I did. It was a few
days after the flush that this overheating happened and in that time I added
enough to top off. It was fine for a few days afterwards and then started
acting
:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 9:34 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
> All that said, I'd start with the thermostat! You did remember to
> put it back in after the flush, right? Is it i
All that said, I'd start with the thermostat! You did remember to
put it back in after the flush, right? Is it in correctly?
Oh, and getting the air bubble out of the head can be tricky.
I backfill the block through the upper radiator hose. Makes
a big difference.
-- Jim
I recently did an acid flush and the car was running fine until a few
days after the flush. The car now is running hotter than *before* the
flush.
Cooling systems are difficult to diagnose. You need a thermometer, I
use the infrared contact-less type. First make sure the gauge is right.
(It
Did you re-check your coolant level? As far as flushing out every particle of
rust, I did that once on a 450 SEL that I owned. This was back in the days of
ignorance when I was using prestone flush. I kept flushing, running the engine
till it was hot, draining and repeated the process every d
If you have rust at the water pump weep hole, coolant is escaping there
(and air is possibly entering there). Change the pump.
Symptoms of a bad fan clutch are overheating when not moving over ~35
mph (in traffic) and cooling down when you get the vehicle moving over
~35 mph.
Continue flushing un
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