Howdy Jens-
If you've got any kind of spark coil, you don't need a vacuum
gauge. The color of the discharge in the gas remaining in the tube
will tell you the vacuum.
You'll really need a 2-stage pump to attain enough vacuum (i've been
using an old Welch for 15 years)..
Once the pump has
Hi Guys, witch BCD to decimal converter I can use the best : The
famous SN74141 or it's russian nephews the K155D1 and KM155D1
(ceramic) ?
Are there usefull CMOS alternatives, or do I need then always discrete
transistors/FET's to adapt to high voltage?
eric
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They are equivalent so anyone can be used. Guess the K155DI is easier to
spot. Found many eBay-sellers offering tons of K155DI.
I have schematics for a digital clock using CMOS counter 4017!
Magnus
- Original Message -
From: Tidak Ada offl...@zeelandnet.nl
To: neonixie-l
The schematic is not the problem, but to find a CMOS BCD to Decimal
converter, that can manage the high voltages, needed to drive a nixie.
Until now I could not find one.
The 4017 has the disadvantage, that it has no latch. It is less
complicated to use a 4 bit BCD latch, than to latch the ten
Hey Dylan,
cool video, many thanks.
If you've got any kind of spark coil, you don't need a vacuum
gauge. The color of the discharge in the gas remaining in the tube
will tell you the vacuum.
Sounds nice! But I think I like the absolute measuring better because
this way I can measure
The schematic is not the problem, but to find a CMOS BCD to Decimal
converter, that can manage the high voltages, needed to drive a nixie.
Last but not least, the nixie thermo/hygrometer I intend to build will
be AVR based, So I don't need counters.
I would suggest having the AVR do the BCD
But I reckon for light bulbs you need a much better vacuum than for Nixie
tubes, right?
Not really. Many light bulbs contain various gases (nitrogen, argon, xenon,
bromium, iodine, etc.) and work just fine. Most gases won't harm a light bulb,
even if there's some residual oxygen, it'll
There are enough K155's on eBay and ik can get the SN74141's for only €0.60 a
piece ;-)
AVR's aren't my territory, so I avoid to change their program. Ordinary TTL and
CMOS logic is managable for me, so I preferrably try to use that.
I remember, I read (was it here on Neonixie??) there was an
Hi John,
I think I will have to try with my equipment for now - the big
investment I will do is a decent burner, but I cannot afford purchasing
a top-notch pump and so on.
The heaters from Neon John are quite beyond my budget, sadly, but I
guess this is really something that could help me a
There are enough K155's on eBay and ik can get the SN74141's for only €0.60 a
piece ;-)
I remember, I read (was it here on Neonixie??) there was an output advantage
for one of the two. Knowing that helps me to decide witch I shall buy.
There are only two differences I remember at the
It couldn't barium getter if you want use mercury. Barium getter exchange
another gases to mercury vapour:/.
It's recommended shining tubes to pump system. RF heating is good, but
sometimes the better is shining.
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Ah, that is what it was !! So I can better use the K155D. Thanks !
I just discovered that K155 means something as SN74. Found a bi-langual (so
also in ordinary writing) datasheet about K155's It's a complete logic family.
34 pages. If you like a copy?
The ceramic form is indicated with KM155
To save on material cost I have started distilling the used alcohol at
a cost of about 25 cents a quart.
Distilling your own alcohol? How does it feel to be a moonshiner?
- John
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To post to this
Yikes, yes I don't think I would admit to home distillery of alcohol on
a public forum (at least not in the United States).
I would at the very least discuss the matter with my attorney. You'll
find that the cost savings drop dramatically once the revenuers and
police show up. :)
-Adam
On
Another difference is the spacing of the pins.
SN74 is 2.54mm and the K155 is 2.50mm.
Frank
- Original Message -
From: Tidak Ada offl...@zeelandnet.nl
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2012 4:04 PM
Subject: RE: [neonixie-l] Re: BCD to decimal converter
Ah,
As I continue to study this stuff, I have more questions...Thanks to all
for your patience and generosity in answering them...
In terms of the capacitors, is there a type you recommend if I am going to
go the capacitive reactance route to step down the AC? Besides using a
non-polarized one, is
There is NO CMOS 74141 or equivalent. Just that simple.
The closest that you're going to get is to use multi-transistor pack
like a SN75468:
From Mouser:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/SN75468N/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMupZfs%2fwBb3DP3ndyInrIQzwHxQzjnmgj0%3d
Ah, disappointing !
But do they fit in a dip-16 socket or pad if holes are large enough ?
Thanx,
eric
-Original Message-
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frank Bemelman
Sent: maandag 16 januari 2012 22:15
To:
The K155D plastic-die version will fit very happily in a standard
through-hole dip-16 socket.
The ceramic die version is weird and won't fit properly.
-Adam
On 1/16/2012 1:47 PM, Tidak Ada wrote:
Ah, disappointing !
But do they fit in a dip-16 socket or pad if holes are large enough ?
In terms of the capacitors, is there a type you recommend if I am going to go
the capacitive reactance route to step down the AC? Besides using a
non-polarized one, is there any material that is preferable to others? If
so, any particular recommendations from online sources?
Since you'll
Thanks for all the tips. I'll think I'll give the water soluble flux a
try on the next go around.
I know you don't have to clean no clean flux, and I use no clean
core wire solder now (Multicore 63/37). But leaving it uncleaned just
doesn't leave the boards looking as nice - clear residue - which
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