Paul,
Thanks, I had no idea it was moderated/managed.
Perhaps if you outline what is needed to keep it alive, we could take turns
running it
On Mon, Mar 27, 2023 at 10:36 PM Paul LeBoutillier
wrote:
> I've noticed that this motorcycle email list has become increasingly
> inactive, therefore, u
Lw_wcB
There is no such thing as a bike specific petcock. They are plumbing
fittings. The nut that tightens up is the only deal breaker. Check the
thread size and diameter.
On Mon, Oct 31, 2022 at 7:24 AM mike wrote:
> Let us, (me) know when you find one. Seems too be pretty unique.
>
&g
Petcocks are not unique to old bikes. A few companies sourced their parts
from the same factories in Japan, so if you too measurements with
caliapers, you'd find that one strainer tube is the same as another.
You could also just use an aftermarket Petcock, and aftermarket internals.
On Mon, Oct
The screens are shared across two or three manufacturers from back then. So
look at the part and then look at a petcock from a different year if you
are obsessive.
On Sat, Oct 29, 2022 at 11:05 PM mike wrote:
> You could probably look forever and not find another Petcock screen,
> discontinued a
If you have an inline, it's covered. I'd swap it out twice a year to be
sure.
On Sat, Oct 29, 2022 at 1:25 PM William M wrote:
> Hello All,
> I took the petcock off today, intending to inspect/clean out the strainer,
> only to find there's not one there, just the bare tube.
> The prior owner put
You might need to make a youtube video and link to it here. Would be easier.
On Wed, Jul 27, 2022 at 10:42 AM 'amazingg...@yahoo.com' via Nighthawk
Motorcycle Lovers! wrote:
> Taking my carbs off for the 10th time it feels like now, well I got a
> little handsy with the fuel hose so to speak and
Aftermarket fuseboxes are around.
If you're patient and don't mind mapping the fuses and wires with a
voltmeter set to TONE, you can see what goes where and just re wire a
replacement fuse block. Also worth learning the bike wiring color codes.
Hard at first and then very simple to grasp.
Old bik
It sounds like you might have a connection causing a drain of voltage
somewhere. While my bike discharges a little each ride, I top it off every
few days with the trickle, I've never stalled or lost power.
Check all your shinies and connectors aren't corroded or loose. Shiny =
Volts.
On Tue, Jun
Swap the brain with another bike.
I bought a used 84 650 and the brain was bad. Same problem. Swapped it out
and had spark on both sides.
If not brain, coils, not coils, plug wires, then plugs.
That's all there is.
Make sure your coils are well grounded.
On Fri, Jun 10, 2022 at 7:54 AM Paul Be
Dang. Our forum get's shit DONE!
On Sun, Mar 6, 2022 at 5:04 AM Dave duChêne wrote:
> Here's your tracking number
> Dave
>
> On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 at 14:26, mike wrote:
>
>> Awesome 👍🏻 thanks 😎
>>
>> On Fri, Mar 4, 2022, 1:10 PM Dave duChêne wrote:
>>
>>> OK, I'll get the seat in the mail tomorro
>
> https://www.box.net/v/motorcyclemanuals
>
This link might be too old to work but searching the web usually results in
finding what you need
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problem, and YES, do go over the bike and tighten
>>>>>>> things like the bolts that secure the coils to the frame.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Once you have the multimeter, you can test the other parts that
>>>>>>> could be
Starter solenoid?
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
>> --
>> *From:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com <
>> nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com> on behalf
Battery might get too low if your regulator is failed.
You need to check the volts with a mutli-meter when the bike is running
below 2k rpms and above.
Above it should be putting out 14 v (about that much)
If it isn't your regulator is gone and the battery is dying as you ride.
Nothing is recharg
sent is for the vacuum side rebuild kit.
>
> On Mon, Nov 22, 2021 at 11:16 AM Drew Gormley
> wrote:
>
>> This one?
>>
>>
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/26776182?epid=202870801&hash=item3653f4a5f6%3Ag%3A4vAAAOSwZKlcTce9&fits=Year%3A1984%7CModel%3ANighthawk
r intended to be
> serviced. I was just looking for what other people have used. I'll give
> them an email, thanks.
>
> On Mon, Nov 22, 2021, 4:55 AM Drew Gormley
> wrote:
>
>> Look specifically at the PART NUMBER of what you want on partzilla and
>> then order it the
The rubber mounts that hold the tank to the top tube may have corroded onto
the frame, and it feels stuck. Just ease the tank in a circular motion
until it starts to break free.
On Mon, Nov 22, 2021 at 10:17 PM Dave duChêne wrote:
> Support the rear of the tank to get it out of the way. The line
Look specifically at the PART NUMBER of what you want on partzilla and then
order it there, or if it's not avail, email parts unlimited and get the
equivalent kit
On Sun, Nov 21, 2021 at 2:57 PM Peter N wrote:
> I'm in New York, but the only kits that I've found online look like they
> won't fit
Sure, are you in the UK?
That looked like a UK kit.
Yes, that's the fuel side only, there's also a vacuum diaphragm with an
integrated weight for the supply half of the petcock on some bikes. So the
complete kits you find on Ebay are fine as well. These are common parts for
bikes that are easy to
They were the same for all honda's of that year I think. Go to Partzilla
and look up the part number of the kit.
I recommend you buy the replacement petcock kits online, J & L or Parts
Unlimited are fine.
Good Luck
On Sat, Nov 20, 2021 at 11:54 PM Peter Nisita wrote:
> I just bought this bike
Most of the bike companies shared parts sourcing from common suppliers.
Meaning that if you can't find a yama part to fit that year, you might find
the same part as a kawi or honda part.
If you can put the part number up here for us, we can help. I used
partzilla to find accurate part numbers, and
>
> I've heard that a good strategy is to simply change oil and filters every
> 1000K
Conventional is fine.
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e recorded
> the sound but the recording does not present the actual sound well. Any
> thoughts ? Thanks.
>
> *From:* Drew Gormley
> *Sent:* Saturday, September 4, 2021 10:59 PM
> *To:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1984 nighthawk 650 p
his subject and providing your input.
> “Dan’s MC Page” is new to me.
>
> *From:* Drew Gormley
> *Sent:* Saturday, September 4, 2021 10:17 AM
> *To:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 1984 nighthawk 650 puffing/popping on
> deceleration and othe
Hey, I hadn't even thought of that! Ian could be very right here.
Check that everything on the bike is snug, and that might be it.
On Sun, Sep 5, 2021 at 6:45 AM Ian Chames wrote:
> My first thought is it sounds like an exhaust leak... But it also could be
> a timing chain rattle, because the t
http://www.dansmc.com/leakdown.htm
>From Dan's MC page
On Sat, Sep 4, 2021 at 11:34 AM 'AGL' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <
nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com> wrote:
> Okay just finished doing the leak down test at 90 psi hopefully I did
> everything correctly cylinder #1 8-10 psi loss #2 2-
Here's a page that should help.
Not a mechanic out there that hasn't leaned on DAN'S page.
http://www.dansmc.com/indexindex.htm
On Sat, Sep 4, 2021 at 11:34 AM 'AGL' via Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <
nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com> wrote:
> Okay just finished doing the leak down test at 90
So you have leakage in cylinder 1.
To clarify
Put each cylinder at TDC, and GENTLY apply air while the crank is held in
place. Be careful. The air pressure can spin the wrench and hurt you.
Do the test dry first, record numbers, THEN wet and record those numbers
When air is SLOWLY added at TDC,
1. Pull sparkplugs and look into each bore assuring nothing is broken off
in there. You can use a bright flashlight.
2. These bikes are really reliable, but sometimes sediment and old oil
clings to the insides of the oiled hydraulic valve adjusters. So you remove
them and use a drill bit to
trigger
w plow attachment on your 700s?😁😁
>>>
>>> On Wed, Sep 1, 2021, 9:00 PM Drew Gormley
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> You know I have the exact same issue?
>>>>
>>>> I think mine broke when I dropped the bike once in the snow. Never
>>
You know I have the exact same issue?
I think mine broke when I dropped the bike once in the snow. Never found
that little bastard.
On Thu, Sep 2, 2021 at 2:54 AM William M wrote:
> Hello ALL,
> somehow the little horn button has disappeared from my sweetheart.
> Makes it a bit difficult to hon
You have great compression. Problem eliminated, now you chase the other
stuff (and become the local guy to loan out his compression tester)
Now you want to do a leakdown test. The fittings from the compression
tester will be needed.
Have you downloaded the factory service manual from the forum?
Google aviation leakdown test.
It means you need to send low psi compressed air into the cylinder, and
listen for a leak.
Eliminate valves being open, and rings gone bad.
Do the test dry, or with the cylinders not oily, and then wet, to find out
if it is a leak down from the rings.
On Sun, Aug
A trend I've noticed here on this forum, especially with these "sale'
posts, is the old "incomplete information" sales technique of leaving out
important info as a marketing ploy, like photos or price
We are all adults here on this forum, and old nighthawks are barely worth
more than 1 per cc runn
>
>
> Photos?
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>
> Not posting the price is making this take longer.
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Did I have a stroke or is there no price?
On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 1:45 AM Paul LeBoutillier
wrote:
> Hey Gang,
> Every so often a BEAUTIFUL Nighthawk comes along and this is that time. A
> woman contacted me asking me to list her Nighthawk with folks who would
> appreciate it. Here is the link
You need to make sure you've gone over the factory service manual.
There is a tension release on the timing chain. If you haven't compressed
it before you go to reassemble, it won't fit.
Was stuck on this step for four days when I pulled my valve adjusters to
clean them out.
On Tue, Jun 15, 2021
When you put it up for a while you can simply run the engine dry by turning
off the fuel valve on the tank, and after the bike stops and cools down,
you can unscrew the drains on side of the bowls to drop the fuel inside.
One of the trickiest parts of nighthawks is they lean to the left on the
kic
Leland, may I forward your contact info to a friend who teaches kids with
Dyslexia?
On Sun, May 30, 2021 at 11:11 PM Leland Hardy <
leland.ha...@dyslexiaawarenessfoundation.org> wrote:
> Tim:
>
> I happen to be in California on business and if you happen to be in
> Northern California, specifical
Hi Tim,
Once you upload a few pics, I'd be happy to consider it. Do you know how to
post image links from an image hosting site like Imgur?
You can sign up free using a social media credential, and post a few photos
there. Then the links you share are accepted and visible on all websites.
Regards
You can clean them yourself, they are easy to clean. The only difficult
part of removing them is that you need to pour a thermos full of boiling
water on the rubber mounts as you shift them out. They will tilt upward,
and then you can tug them free, and pull them out of the left side of the
frame w
You can swap the ECU from a wrong year, within one year I think. I had to
for my 650 sc
On Sun, Apr 18, 2021 at 4:40 PM Leland Hardy <
leland.ha...@dyslexiaawarenessfoundation.org> wrote:
> Does anyone have a tested, working OEM part number available?
> 30400-ME5-014 ignition module
>
> On Mon,
Switch tanks and test for failure.
On Wed, Apr 14, 2021 at 1:30 AM Graham Rogers
wrote:
> Make sure gas cap allows air in to replace gas going to carbs.
>
> On Tue, Apr 13, 2021 at 12:16 PM hol...@shadowbrush.com <
> hol...@shadowbrush.com> wrote:
>
>> It does sound like fuel starvation. I had a
>
> I replace hoses yearly. Petcock hose AND fuel hose.
Verify voltage just after one of these events. You could have a dying
rectifier/diode somewhere.
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I would revise KN's answer.
There are many.
You will need to learn how to search for which are useful to you.
For example, they were made for all the SC nighthawks, and might be
standard for more than one yamaha shaft driven bike.
You can find junk bikes around, so it's not that hard to just buy
t;>>>> lot of things that could be wrong, unless a video or a better explanation
>>>>> is told then it's hard to say. A 250 nighthawk really wont get past 80 mph
>>>>> very well, and if its worn out or put of time or any of the things I
>>>>> listed
>>
Also, here is your manual.
Follow the steps, work patiently,and you'll be very happy. (And save money)
http://hondacb250.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Honda-Rebel-Nighthawk-78-a-03-Service-Manual-Clymer.pdf
On Wed, Nov 18, 2020 at 10:44 AM Charl Schubach
wrote:
> I have cleaned out the filte
Charl,
we will help you step by step. The good news is that if you live in
Cambodia, you don't need to drive faster than 80km/h anyway.
The carburetor on that bike is a single. It is very easy to clean. You just
need some spray solvent carb cleaner (do not get ANY spray brake cleaner on
your motor
Ah, if the bike has manually adjustable valves, I'd check those too. The
250 engines are simpler than the 4 cyls I believe
On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 8:40 PM Graham Rogers
wrote:
> Check the air filter, clean it or replace. Where are you?
>
> On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 4:40 AM Charl Schubach
> wrote
That sounds like the engine is not firing on all four cylinders. It's that
slow if that's the case.
1. Does it run with a rough sound? If so, you could possibly have one coil
out , and you'd have two dead cylinders, one on either side, cooler than
the others.
If so, please spray water mist onto
Correction!
dansmc.com
Dan's MC. Very helpful guy with a great page worth its weight in gold
On Wed, Oct 21, 2020 at 1:14 PM Drew Gormley
wrote:
> The cable could be routed incorrectly. It could also need lubing up or
>> replacing. They're 12 bucks.
>>
>
> Als
>
> The cable could be routed incorrectly. It could also need lubing up or
> replacing. They're 12 bucks.
>
Also, you can make a DIY manometer (google it) and measure the two banks
for synch, though they're usually VISIBLY different in terms of light
passing the butterfly valves if they're off. A
Yeah, A battery goes stale (sulfates) if it isn't used frequently. The
charging/discharging keeps it alive. If it sits for too long it can't be
effectively desulfated ever again.
New one is in order.
On Tue, Oct 20, 2020 at 9:24 AM Drew Gormley
wrote:
>
>
> On Tue, Oct
On Tue, Oct 20, 2020 at 6:17 AM Tombo wrote:
> that makes sense
> I had to buy this battery when I first got the bike 4 years ago and it was
> a pain to track down the right model with the right posts.
> getting something more commercially available sounds like a good upgrade,
> though
>
> On Fri
You have to look into which one is closest, but one of the shell gasolines,
either 91 or 93 is ethanol free. You can fill your garage/lawnmower red can
with that and use it for a while to see if it helps. Once the idle jets are
clogged you have to remove and push them open with solven and a thin wi
Hey man, yeah, welcome to buying a battery for a nighthawk. Kind of a right
of passage.
There's an agm that I got at walmart that is a few cm's off the correct
dimension of the lead acid correct size. It is a bit wide and sticks out of
the battery box, but was a good choice. Other than a few
10 mi
Check the fuses, under the plate in the center of the handlebars beneath
the display
On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 10:54 AM Tombo wrote:
> Hey y'all
> I was trying to jumpstart my 700S and ended up shorting out the
> positive+negative posts on the battery. The trickle charger that is in line
> now wo
Here ya go mate:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ohM1uS9HNQI
On Mon, Sep 14, 2020 at 9:19 AM Jenya Spektor wrote:
> Thank you! I do know that the armature needs to be turned - the end that
> comes in contact with brushes is concave in the center.
> Appreciate your replies!
> J
>
> On Sat, Sep 1
Has this helped you?
On Tue, Aug 18, 2020 at 10:18 AM Drew Gormley
wrote:
> Okay,
>
> Thank you for your excellent responses and clear answers underlined. Well
> done.
>
> 1: Are you holding the start button for more than 5 seconds max? (You
> should not be.) Y/N *Not
Okay,
Thank you for your excellent responses and clear answers underlined. Well
done.
1: Are you holding the start button for more than 5 seconds max? (You
should not be.) Y/N *Not really, but sometimes longer then 2 seconds, or I
have to press it multiple times.*
*Please warm the bike up with
Your brushes are being destroyed.
Lets' eliminate a few basics.
1: Are you holding the start button for more than 5 seconds max? (You
should not be.) Y/N
2. Does the bike have trouble starting (Hence over use of the start button)
Y/N
3. Are you sure the timing and valves are all operating correct
you can find replacements for them on ebay, or at a dealership. They were
standard on Japanese bikes for many years.
Good Luck
On Tue, Aug 4, 2020 at 1:54 PM Francisco Gomez
wrote:
> Hello Nighthawk forum ,how are you, we hope fine.
> The filter inside tank are attached to the peckoc, when you
Hey while we're all at it, I need to swap a side panel myself. I bought a
dark red (burgundy) on ebay by accident and instead need that more cherry
red.
That is if anyone is in need of a trade. Anyone have a left cherry red for
the 83 or 84? I can trade a dark red (burgundy) left for a good left c
Since we cannot see which of the over 12 screws you are referring to, we
cannot easily be sure what you mean.
There is a main screw, a large SINGLE screw that is adjustable. It is
usually written in the service manual for the year of your bike how open,
or turned out from FULLY INSERTED they recom
done, but due to
> almost Honda Parts seller says Part is no longer available, I am thinking
> to use Ebay.
> Thanks a lot for you support and assistance in this matter, and we hope
> that somebody of the forum can shown me if this part are available Original
> Best regards
>
> O
Francisco,
There are MANY 750's out there.
I actually own a 650 which had a bad CDI, or ignitor module as you call it,
and had to buy a replacement from Ebay. The replacement worked fine.
You can find one of these ignitor modules on EBAY wherever you are, you'll
just have to be patient.
Good Luc
Hey kyle, I think you can setup a free imgur or photobucket acct to link
photos if you need. You can even set that account up using "login with
facebook" or "login with google"
On Wednesday, June 10, 2020 at 4:23:42 PM UTC-4, Kyle Munz wrote:
>
> That looks pretty good for a DIY setup.
>
> -Kyl
THAT is a BEAUTY!
On Thu, Jun 11, 2020 at 12:27 PM 'Steve Hart' via Nighthawk Motorcycle
Lovers! wrote:
> Looks great, Nice work.
>
> On Thursday, 11 June 2020 16:15:48 UTC+1, nick.t...@btinternet.com wrote:
>>
>> I hope That I’m doing this right, first time I’ve tried to send a photo
>> to thi
Beautiful story and work Les!
On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 10:19 PM Graham Rogers
wrote:
>
> Great job, outstanding transformation
>
> On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 10:17 PM Les McConnell
> wrote:
>
>> I bought this '82 Nighthawk in November 2015. It had been stolen and
>> burned, then recovered by owner.
You'll need to check the output with a voltmeter. You can also deduce a bad
rectifier and or diode if you have patience. Start with checking what volts
you read below 2000 rpm, and then above. If the volts go above 14, you've
lost your regulator.
On Fri, Apr 17, 2020 at 6:31 PM Ryan Blaney wrote:
your quick reply, I appreciate that.
> i will think about doing that, after i study up on it.
> take care, William.
> On Sunday, April 12, 2020 at 11:48:23 AM UTC-7, Drew Gormley wrote:
>>
>> Hey, you can look into replacing the fork seals, and while you do the
>> seal
Hey, you can look into replacing the fork seals, and while you do the
seals, you can change out the fork oil and learn if the forks are correctly
installed (you can't assume that they are)
Good Luck!
On Sun, Apr 12, 2020 at 2:44 PM William M wrote:
> Hello from a newbie,
> i just bought a '85
Now THAT is a great suggestion I've never heard before. Thanks! I'm USING
that one when I do my carbs next.
On Thursday, April 9, 2020 at 7:41:28 PM UTC-4, Russell Belden wrote:
>
> I have cleaned checked floats and needle seat valve . The floats are not
> adjustable . Could the petcock have so
nswer for you, but I understand being hesitant
> to throw too much torque on a bolt in an aluminum head.
>
> -Kyle
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 1:15 PM Drew Gormley > wrote:
>
>> Hey all, this bolt is one of four that hold down the tappet arms.
>> I can'
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