https://www.dropbox.com/sc/1litszsk8bx6e7q/AADYJ8ULWna8ea_57oQATV93a
Here's what I could see once I cut the top off the pulse gen. The permanent
magnet is behind the coil with the steel surrounding the back and pushed
through the center to create the pickup point. The whole thing looks like it i
No thanks. Don't need them. Post pics if you split the gens.
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Tommy, what I didn't realize until I traced all the wires is that each coil had
its own pulse generator. The pair in parallel keep the timing true. When
rereading the entire thread I noticed Allen saying it is a dual ignitor setup.
Once I dug into the pulse gen setup it made perfect sense. It mu
Great! I called pulse gens early on because I had a quitting problem, not a
misfire. Glad you are running.
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Yup. So stoked!
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Man, so it's finally fixed?
-Kyle
On Mon, Apr 25, 2016 at 3:36 PM, Joel Greaves wrote:
> The 62 miles I rode today are perhaps the most satisfying I have ridden.
> New pulse gens arrived around noon and were immediately installed, bike
> reassembled and I cautiously hit the road.
> Thank you t
The 62 miles I rode today are perhaps the most satisfying I have ridden. New
pulse gens arrived around noon and were immediately installed, bike reassembled
and I cautiously hit the road.
Thank you to all, present and departed.
Joel
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I did. One had .3 ohms resistance and one was infinite resistance. Bingo. Just
spent $35 on a new pair. We shall know for sure next week when they arrive.
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I forget what the resistance is supposed to be, but you have two and one
works while hot and one doesn't. Measure resistance one both while cold and
then again after they're hot. I'm guessing you'll find different values.
On Apr 21, 2016 1:50 PM, "Tommy Hill" wrote:
> When it acts up, hose down t
When it acts up, hose down the pulse gen cover with a hose and go ride
immediately and see if it behaves at first.
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By pulse coils, do you mean pulse generators? I thought you replaced those.
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Wiring terminals are clean and tight. Can anybody tell me what the resistance
should be on the pulse coils? I'm gonna ride today until it fails and check
those.
Joel
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I'm gonna double check the terminals inside connectors all the way through
in the morning. Can't hurt to double check things.
Joel
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Could tap a jumper wire from Cdi to coil to rule out the wire.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 20, 2016, at 8:03 PM, Joel Greaves wrote:
>
> Should I replace the yellow coil wire in the harness at this point?
> Frustrated now. Off to raid the fridge of beer.
>
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Have you checked all terminals to make sure they are clean and tight. I used
to have a headlight light problem that would only cut out when it was on for
awhile. Terminal would heat up and break the connection.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 20, 2016, at 8:03 PM, Joel Greaves wrote:
>
> Sho
Should I replace the yellow coil wire in the harness at this point?
Frustrated now. Off to raid the fridge of beer.
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Changed out the coil on 2&3 to no effect.
Thoughts?
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Ok so I have now run it and it misfires
When hot and misfiring when I measure the output of the CDI at the box I get 5v
across the b&w and yellow but only 1.2v across the b&w and blue. Blue fires the
coil on 1&4 and yellow the coil on 2&3. 2&3 are not running at this time.
The same voltages exis
I started unwrapping the harness and got to the upper connector. Realized I had
another upper connector so I swapped that part first. I'm going to run it out
tonight and see if it's the top section or if I need to change out the wire in
the main harness.
Thanks again as always.
Joel
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The black/white wire is your positive voltage. The blue and yellow are your
ground driver from the CDI. So if you have a higher voltage on the coil that
is misfiring I'd agree and say high resistance in the yellow wire for coil 2&3
to the CDI. Maybe the connector is dirty?
Sent from my iPhon
Swap it on both ends, or you'll have your spark coming at the wrong times
entirely, but yes. If the connector is the one I think, you should just
need a small flat-blade screwdriver to remove the terminal from the
connector for the CDI.
I'd be more helpful, but I'm sitting at work.
-Kurt
On Wed,
So if I swap the blue and yellow wires at the coils since they have a common
black and white then the other coil should fail? At that point I would have
confirmed it as a bad wire correct?
Joel
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You've checked the coils. It happens with either box. You're measuring a
pulse generated by the box, not a signal passed through the box.
You're down to checking things that are the same with different boxes and
coils, that points to harnessing.
Any issue with the power input to the CDI should af
The cels 2&3 are misfiring. That is the yellow wire on my bike. My question
is if I am measuring at the output of the cdi box, why would I suspect the
wire to the coil? Or do you mean the input wire to the coil is bad?
Joel
On Wednesday, April 20, 2016 at 2:28:49 PM UTC-4, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>
>
Definitely suspect that wire then.
I don't know the gap setting. It's not adjustable, right?
Kurt
On Apr 20, 2016 2:21 PM, "Joel Greaves" wrote:
> I have swapped coils several times and it is always cyls 2&3.
> What is the acceptable gap on the pulsar units to the rotor in the pulse
> generator
I have swapped coils several times and it is always cyls 2&3.
What is the acceptable gap on the pulsar units to the rotor in the pulse
generator?
On Wednesday, April 20, 2016 at 2:09:52 PM UTC-4, Kurt Nolte wrote:
>
> Check that blue wire for resistance, good connection, good integrity. Swap
> c
Check that blue wire for resistance, good connection, good integrity. Swap
coils to see if it follows the coil.
That's where I would start.
On Apr 20, 2016 12:02 PM, "Joel Greaves" wrote:
>
> I spoke too soon.
>>
>> So now I have chased the fault to the cdi box i think. When I put a
> voltmeter
Total guess, but wherever the supply is coming from to the CDI on that side
must be the problem!?
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t
I spoke too soon.
>
> So now I have chased the fault to the cdi box i think. When I put a
voltmeter across the black/white wire and the blue wire which controls the
left coil (1&4) i get .32V while running and misfiring. When I put it
across the b&w and the yellow for coil on 2&3 I get 4.5V wh
And the final(ish) verdict goes to.
Ding ding Tommy's new ignitor cdi box.
Thank you all for all the input. I managed 38 miles today with no issues.
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I guess I'll get my crimp era about and double check them all. I'll try and
chase all the wires from one end to the other. A bit more of dielectric grease
on the connections and I'll get back to you. Thanks again as always.
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The connector terminals them self but kinda a long shot. I've seen terminals
inside connectors be dirty and loose, that causes resistance, which in turn
makes the terminals get hot and expand and break connection. But this is more
common in circuits that draw higher Amps like lighting.
I'm
Jman when you say check wires do you mean the ignitor signal wires or the plug
wires? I don't see either as worn.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mjwu7rygjszurfv/Normal%20sounds%20during%20warmup.mov?dl=0
This shows a warmup and it seems to be fine.
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Pretty sure I got one.
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False hope, sorry. I knocked a spade clip loose. It still misses on 2&3 when
hot. I guess I'll look for an igniter box next.
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Ah, man! Sorry they, or at least one, didn't work.
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Very good, glad you got it.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 6, 2016, at 5:14 PM, Joel Greaves wrote:
>
> As far as the cruddy plugs go. I think that's because it was unburnt fuel and
> exhaust in the cylinders. It did smoke but that's just crap burning off.
>
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As far as the cruddy plugs go. I think that's because it was unburnt fuel and
exhaust in the cylinders. It did smoke but that's just crap burning off.
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Well now that I have swapped the coils cyls 1&4 misfire so that solves the
question. Now to find the original one that works. Hmm... Where did I put that?
Thanks y'all.
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If your getting oil in to those cylinders then coils won't fix it, just noticed
you said that. The plugs will keep fouling up. Plus the bike would smoke if
you changed to new plugs and ran it . Your sure it's oil fouled and not black
and sooty from lack of spark
Sent from my iPhone
> On
I'd get some new cools off eBay, should be cheap
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 6, 2016, at 2:12 PM, Joel Greaves wrote:
>
> You guys weren't kidding about simple electrics. I pulled the coils and plugs
> today. Plugs 2&3 were oiled and nasty. I used electric grease on everything I
> could find
You guys weren't kidding about simple electrics. I pulled the coils and plugs
today. Plugs 2&3 were oiled and nasty. I used electric grease on everything I
could find and put it all together.
The result? I made it 3.5 miles before the misfire. Now my battery is dead and
I'm gonna have swap the
It's snowing here. I'll get back to you.
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It should have a ref voltage and return to the igniter control. I've seen
crank, cam, and Hall effect pickups become thermal reactive and the wave form
when viewed with a ignition lab scope goes to garbage.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 1, 2016, at 11:08 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>
> Pulse g
Pulse gens are just electro magnets, if they short they just stop working.
Has he tried looking at the spark once it gets hot. Motion pro sells a tool
for like $10 that lets you check how strong the spark is. I have mine set
at 10 mm. If it can jump that gap it will start a bike.
Allen Thomas
On M
In my limited pulse (signal?) gen, they work or they don't. No halfway.
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Really shouldn't have to wait till it acts up. Pull all 4, 2 should be darker
in color and if it's a pair driven by the same coil I would go that route.
Coil, wires, driver, doubt the signal gen but who knows.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 1, 2016, at 7:54 AM, Tommy Hill wrote:
>
> To be cl
To be clear, I gave him some. I think they are good, though.
Any luck? Pull those plugs when it acts up and check their color.
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No forgot you sold him some. But sounds like thermal related failure in the
coil. Doubt it's a Cdi maybe a terminal heating up?
I'd would drive it around close too home and get it too fail, put a injector
noid light across the coil B+ and trigger and make sure it blinks. Then check
spark a
Back firing through the carbs is a symptom of a super rich condition, which
also goes in line with runs worse when warm. Inconsistent spark will cause
a super rich mixture, and electrical components act up when hot. So since
it could be anything, rule out the obvious first. Get new plugs and check
Jman is dissin' my coils!?
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My guess is a coil failing when it gets hot. If you pull plugs and 1&4 or 2&3
and that set is black or wet compared to the other set I would replace that
coil.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 28, 2016, at 5:17 PM, Joel Greaves wrote:
>
> Well now that it's a pretty Sunday here in the mountai
I'm gonna start by pulling the air box like Allen said and will post back.
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Well now that it's a pretty Sunday here in the mountains I got the bike out to
see what was up. I got about 6miles in and as expected the bike started running
on 2 cyl. I got it home (my clutch hates me right now) and after playing around
with the choke I got the vacuum line on the petcock to fl
I forgot to mention I make pizzas for a living. Asbestos fingers with very
little in the way of sensitivity for a long time now.
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Yea they also help when tuneing the idle mixture screws.
Allen Thomas
On Dec 17, 2015 9:23 AM, "Kyle Munz" wrote:
> Or better yet, save your fingers completely and get a non-contact
> thermometer.
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/thermometers/non-contact-infrared-thermometer-with-lase
Or better yet, save your fingers completely and get a non-contact
thermometer.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/thermometers/non-contact-infrared-thermometer-with-laser-targeting-69465.html
-Kyle
On Thu, Dec 17, 2015 at 8:19 AM, Allen Thomas wrote:
>
> Or put soome spit on your finger,
Or put soome spit on your finger, or use a spray bottle of water.
Allen Thomas
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And this time, ask your wife which ones are hot!
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T
I'd have to brave the cold and look, but I think you have a dual igniter
system, if so try swapping them, same goes for the pulse gen leads. See if
you can make the problem switch over to the 1-4 bank.
Allen Thomas
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"Ni
Don't worry about the pulse gen gap. Unless it came lose and moved, there is
no gap to set.
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to nig
It is possible to get to the middle plugs without pulling the tank, but
honestly it's quicker/easier to just remove the tank.
-Kyle
On Wed, Dec 16, 2015 at 1:23 PM, Joel Greaves wrote:
> According to the skin missing from my fingers the 2&3 cylinders are the
> ones not working. The 1&4 are ver
According to the skin missing from my fingers the 2&3 cylinders are the
ones not working. The 1&4 are very definitely hot! I guess Im gonna have to
pull this bike apart and see if the pulse generator is properly gapped. and
then start tracing wires looking for signs of grounding / cracks in the
Well that's covered too as soon as I get them from Kurt and swap them in.
That's gonna have to wait until warmer weather.
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But I gotta say, sounds like carb issue to me.
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To
My 700S would run for almost any time, but once hot, and I tuned it off, forget
starting until it cools off. Never backfired except while actually cranking.
It did reach the point that it would stop after 30 mins or so. Again, while
running, ran perfect. Mine was pulse gens. Replaced them an
Tommy gave me a pair of coils to use. They have been installed and seem to work
fine.
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Did you ever check the coils mentioned at the beginning of this thread?
Also, take a peek at the pulse generator.
-Kyle
On Wed, Dec 9, 2015 at 11:04 AM, Joel Greaves wrote:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/0k728jh3sbnzg2h/The%20misfire.mov?dl=0
>
> This is what happens when she gets hot.
> I can't
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k6ta3t4v10d5s2b/Misfire%20to%20quit.mov?dl=0
For this clip I got it started with a bit of choke. I then open up the throttle
and then to full throttle. Then it quits.
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/0k728jh3sbnzg2h/The%20misfire.mov?dl=0
This is what happens when she gets hot.
I can't get it over 3500rpm and there's an occasional backfire from fuel in the
pipes.
I'll let it cool and be able to ride on. No problem.
Thanks for the insights.
Joel
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Ok guys I had 20 mins today and
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bef0tvp7py6b2m2/Warmed%20up%20idle%2084%20650.mov?dl=0
is what it sounded like as per normal warm up. I then got out for a quick
wiz down the road and back to get her hotter and when I got back it stalled
as I stopped and put down the kic
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