Unless it is a special presentation piece or something like that, I mat
and frame all my own prints. Back when I was trying to do the art fairs
etc, I quickly relized that there was just no way you could pay someone
to mat and frame your work and still sell it at a competitive price.
But
What ever happened to Dry Mount Presses?
15 years ago they were still too expensive for me to buy a used 20-24 model.
Did they stop making the wax on both side paper they used? Did everyone throw
away their tacking irons with the teflon coating?
I know from experience that they are not
On Thu, Jun 28, 2012 at 2:01 AM, Joseph McAllister pentax...@mac.com wrote:
What ever happened to Dry Mount Presses?
I always found them to be most essential for FB papers, which warped
and curled severely. I never used dry mounting for RC papers... I used
photo corners instead. I suspect the
On Thu, Jun 28, 2012 at 2:01 AM, Joseph McAllister pentaxian at mac.com wrote:
What ever happened to Dry Mount Presses?
A lot of digital people here in Columbus still use them for mounting.
Flat is better looking than loose.
They don't sell for what they used to, but they still sell.
I have an
From: Joseph McAllister
What ever happened to Dry Mount Presses? 15 years ago they were still
too expensive for me to buy a used 20-24 model. Did they stop making
the wax on both side paper they used? Did everyone throw away their
tacking irons with the teflon coating? I know from experience
on 2012-06-28 24:01 Joseph McAllister wrote
What ever happened to Dry Mount Presses?
my dad used a large Seal press for years; i think it is still in his darkroom
one mounting technique he used was to mount a trimmed print directly to a
larger square of heavy mat board (not sure whether he
On Jun 27, 2012, at 5:08 AM, Igor Roshchin wrote:
Just in case it would useful, some ideas on mounting prints on the board:
For mounting canvas prints (especially those that didn't have much
empty margin around the print), I've used foam (aka foam-core?) board
with self-adhesive surface. I
On Mon, Jun 25, 2012 at 8:29 PM, Ed Keeney ewkphoto at gmail.com
wrote:
This year I was thinking of handling the matting and framing myself.
Nothing fancy or out of the ordinary, but possibly working with my
local Blicks to get it together. I am thinking of going 16x20 for the
print with a
Just in case it would useful, some ideas on mounting prints on the board:
For mounting canvas prints (especially those that didn't have much
empty margin around the print), I've used foam (aka foam-core?) board
with self-adhesive surface. I bought it rather inexpensively (within $10
for about
Now that the latest PDML book has been published (and it looks great;
mine was ordered today), I have a question for the masses.
In 2010 my print was hung in the DANK haus gallery with many of the
other entries. I still have that print hanging on my wall here at
home. Last year, I had my entry
It all quite simple, except -- and this is a big except -- the matting. An
inexpensive mat cutter generally yields inexpensive looking mats, with sloppy
corners and imprecise edges. Even the good mat cutters require a fair amount of
practice. I would suggest doing all the framing and printing
On Mon, Jun 25, 2012 at 8:29 PM, Ed Keeney ewkph...@gmail.com wrote:
Now that the latest PDML book has been published (and it looks great;
mine was ordered today), I have a question for the masses.
In 2010 my print was hung in the DANK haus gallery with many of the
other entries. I still
On 26/06/2012, at 10:29 AM, Ed Keeney wrote:
Is there a simple step-by-step process you follow?
I am studying photography part-time at a local college and here is their
preferred method:
1. Lay the mat on top of the backing board (foam core or an uncut sheet of mat
board) in the same
I have one of the large Logan mat cutters.
It works well for me and $50 for one is a very good price.
Grab it if it is still available.
The one thing you will need to do is use pins to mark your cutting
start/stop positions.
And get a piece of cardboard to experiment on to get your technique down.
On 6/25/2012 21:22, Paul Stenquist wrote:
It all quite simple, except -- and this is a big except --
the matting. An inexpensive mat cutter generally yields inexpensive
looking mats,
with sloppy corners and imprecise edges. Even the good mat cutters
require a fair amount of practice. I
Quoting Paul Ewins paulew...@optusnet.com.au:
On 26/06/2012, at 10:29 AM, Ed Keeney wrote:
Is there a simple step-by-step process you follow?
I am studying photography part-time at a local college and here is
their preferred method:
1. Lay the mat on top of the backing board (foam core
@ the local framer.
You could always do the matte yourself and buy the frames from online sources
to save som bucks.
YMMV
-Original Message-
From: Ed Keeney ewkph...@gmail.com
Subject: OT: Matting Framing
Now that the latest PDML book has been published (and it looks great;
mine was ordered
Brian: http://www.matcutting.com.au/
On 26/06/2012, at 12:30 PM, Brian Walters wrote:
I buy my mats and backing boards pre-cut in small batches from an on-line
seller. It is cheaper and gives better results than trying to cut my own
mats.
Do you have a link to that seller?
Quoting Paul Ewins paulew...@optusnet.com.au:
Brian: http://www.matcutting.com.au/
Thanks, Paul.
I'll get them to give me a quote.
Cheers
Brian
++
Brian Walters
Western Sydney Australia
http://lyons-ryan.org/southernlight/
On 26/06/2012, at 12:30
From: Ed Keeney
Now that the latest PDML book has been published (and it looks great;
mine was ordered today), I have a question for the masses.
In 2010 my print was hung in the DANK haus gallery with many of the
other entries. I still have that print hanging on my wall here at
home. Last
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