I have used a 12cm for Albatross bars and a 9cm with a 105 degree rise
for noodles on the same bike with a 58cm top tube. I have mustache
bars with a 10cm dirtdrop but on a bike with a 57 cm top tube. My
Simple One has a 9cm seven shaped nitto stem all the way up to the
mark with Nitto Rando bars
William,
FYI
I'm exactly your height and weight and wear XL in Rapha Jerseys, L in the
shorts and baselayers.
I could wear L jerseys if not for my freakishly wide shoulders.
The skincare stuff does smell nice, but contains tea tree oil which gives me a
nasty rash. Glad I read the fine print be
If I needed a 90 cm stem with a Noodle, I would not be able to get a
short enough stem for comfort with a Moustache bar. With an M there
are no tops, so it's like being on the hoods full time only lower
because the M bars have a little drop to them. A 60 might work. My
most successful applicatio
I am not Jim, but hobby shops and the fingernail polish section of
drugstores, etc. have many colors, some of which may match. Don't try to
touch up all in one go. Layers, light sanding. Be happy with beausage. We
live in Rivendell, remember. Use a pencil eraser to apply pressure to a
little wad of
I have interrupters on all of my three bikes and I use them 3/4 of the
time because I use the hoods most of the time. I also use handlebar
bags on all my bikes and the levers aren't really in the way. I would
go so far as to say that having only the standard levers in the drops
would be awkward a
Jim, can you elaborate on what you mean by "enamel"? Thanks.
On Jul 1, 11:23 am, CycloFiend wrote:
> on 7/1/11 7:15 AM, Jeffrey at unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> I have several large abrasions through the paint that have rusted. what do
> you do to treat them? If I just paint/fingernail polis
Back when I was a kid riding a 10-speed (before mountain bikes had
supplanted them as the 'standard' bicycle), they had these funky brakes that
not only had the levers for the drops, but from out of the inside of the
hoods was an L-lever, so that you could brake from the flats. Wasn't the
gre
Another vote here in favor. I had them on Noodles on my Sam and really liked
them. Mine were Tektros and were great IMHO. I find that on dirt or gravel I
hate riding on the hoods and prefer the flats, the the cross levers are
perfect. Maybe too many years of mountain biking. I also use a VO "Ra
I currently have Noodles with a 110 Nitto stem which ideally should be
a 100 or maybe even a 90 (tops are great, hoods are just a bit far)
Anyway, I've been thinking about trying either the Albatross or
Moutstache bars. Can you share your experience in regards to stem
length for these bars relati
I may replace the rather too wide and too deep and too long 46 cm
Nitto Noodles on the Fargo with either Nitto 185s or Salsa Bell Laps.
Will the 185s be strong enough for fast, choppy surfaces? I don't do
dropoffs or anything like that.
I've given up on bars much higher than my saddle, even for t
Yea I get the whole IGH thing but I haven't found the four speed/ soon
to be five ratios limiting. My normal road gear is 66" my headwind
hill climber is a 51" and I will be getting a 22 tooth freewheel for
the flip side giving me a 44". Any steeper than that and I just get
off and hike a little.
I like to use clear paint or nail polish as it provides protection
from corrosion and saves me from the embarrassment of a poor color
match.
On Jul 1, 8:41 pm, steven wrote:
> I try to find paint that does not match. I like the scarred look.
>
> On Jul 1, 11:12 am, rlc5925 wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
I try to find paint that does not match. I like the scarred look.
On Jul 1, 11:12 am, rlc5925 wrote:
> Looking for suggestions for touch up paint in the (white/cream) lug
> area. Thanks
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I've found I really love interrupters. They're one of the few actual bike
component improvements in the last decade that really do something useful.
Simple, cheap, lightweight, unobtrusive (mostly). Great upgrade IMHO.
On Fri, Jul 1, 2011 at 4:23 PM, William wrote:
> +1 on the opinion that int
On Fri, 2011-07-01 at 15:57 -0700, Michael_S wrote:
> Not to rile any feathers, but as Patrick said if your bars/top tube
> are the right length for you then they become an un-necessary bike
> addition. I feel that drop bar bikes should be set up so you can ride
> on the hoods most of the time. Th
+1 on the opinion that interrupters are a nice to have complement to drop
bar levers, but not a substitute for them. I only have them on one bike, my
56cm Hillborne with 46cm Noodles :) on my other bikes, I don't run them
because they'd get in the way of my handlebar bag. Because of that, I'v
thanks for the report Bill. I'll probably get a Rapha jersey one of these
days and I was thinking the XL for myself ( 5'11" 190). Thats what I wear
in Ibex and Woolistic.
The thick pads on shorts bug me as well. I find the Garneau pad is nice as
well, these days though, I'm hiding mine under
I have the interrupter levers on three road bikes, two of them on Nitto
Noodles. I recommend them unconditionally. I probably use them less than 10
percent of the time, but they are simply great to have. There are almost no
drawbacks, except that they may interfere with a handlebar bag.
Horace.
O
Not to rile any feathers, but as Patrick said if your bars/top tube are the
right length for you then they become an un-necessary bike addition. I feel
that drop bar bikes should be set up so you can ride on the hoods most of
the time. The wider stance is better for braking,steering and turning
So I lied. I can't review anything. Besides a picture is worth a thousand
words.. and not only will you not have to read my dribble I won't have to
type it.
This set is my favorite memories with my Bomba.. :)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tksleeper/sets/72157626967187631/
Now show me your
On Fri, 2011-07-01 at 15:30 -0600, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
> Not instead; possibly in addition to. But if you have your bars and
> drop levers set up properly the question of needing another pair of
> levers on the bar's flats doesn't even really arise for pavement
> riding; they are useful sometimes
On Fri, 2011-07-01 at 14:13 -0700, E.B. wrote:
>
> Adding interrupter levers gives you immediate access to the brakes
> while riding "on the tops." This riding position puts you more
> upright, which in turn improves your sightline while commuting in
> traffic. I have interrupters on 46cm Noodles.
Not instead; possibly in addition to. But if you have your bars and
drop levers set up properly the question of needing another pair of
levers on the bar's flats doesn't even really arise for pavement
riding; they are useful sometimes for very rough or steep terrain
where you want to get way back o
I have found that on the Sam because of the frame geometry I use the
interrupter levers more than the
brakes. In fact I'm starting to rebuild my stable and am test riding a
Specialized Tricross. I kept looking for the interrupter levers that
weren't there.
If I buy it that is one change I would d
Personally I would learn to get use to it. But if you need the
security go for it. The 46 bars have a lot of space. And get the
interruptors with split lamps. Then you can take them off laterbwith
minimal fuss.
I had no issue adjusting to drops. The noodle also feels funny at
first but hang in th
Regardless of your background, my opinion is that you will definitely
want drop bar brake levers. Without them, you immediately lose one of
the best hand positions (on the hoods). The levers are easy to operate
in the hoods and also give excellent leverage when braking with your
hands "in the drops
Hi all,
I'm wondering if anyone out there has a used SlickerSack (the large
"case" that fits on a plat-rack) that they aren't using and want to
sell. If so, write me.
Thanks,
Adam
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on 7/1/11 9:40 AM, Jeffrey at unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote:
Jim, Thanks for the reply, and I will post these kinds of questions to iBob
in the future. Seems I have ferrous steel cranks, and now that I've cleaned
and scraped them, I'm in for some unstoppable rust. Doh! File under "live
and learn".
I bought Forrest's Sam Hillborne and am having it built for commuting
in a mix of interurban roads and city traffic and the occasional tour.
Coming from a sordid MTB past, I currently commute on an old steel
mountain bike with slicks. I ordered the Nitto Noodle bars on faith,
never having actually
Jim, Thanks for the reply, and I will post these kinds of questions to iBob
in the future. Seems I have ferrous steel cranks, and now that I've cleaned
and scraped them, I'm in for some unstoppable rust. Doh! File under "live
and learn". Trying to make this old bike look "better" is a real learn
It's just a matter of getting used to the new format. For what it's worth, on
my phone, it's now properly scaled to fit, unlike the old version.
Immensely helpful when I travel (especially on bike ;) and do the majority of
my web browsing on a 5" display.
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Nice herd Ryan! After saying I needed to thin mine down, I couldn't say no
when a friend asked if I could take a 1987 Panasonic Team America in
excellent shape off his hands... So, do I leave it as is, or 650B it? h
On Fri, Jul 1, 2011 at 2:08 PM, Ryan wrote:
> 93 X0-1
> early 70's Peugeot
'89 Schwinn Voyageur That I basically got for free. I paid 80 for it and the
guy gave me a matching lady bike that I trued the wheels and sold for 80.
:-) Great Bike. I meant to make it a single speed but it rides and shifts so
nice as it is that I am holding off on that idea.
05 Surly LHT. It
93 X0-1
early 70's Peugeot PX-10 now set up as a single-speed
1996 Riv all-rounder
2001 Curt-built Riv Road
I love them all but this season I've been riding my Peugeot a lot. There's a
nostalgia factor, the Peugeot was my first really good bike that I bought
when I was 20. I had 2 stolen and th
Report so far. I ended up getting a grip of stuff. A brevet jersey, bib
shorts, armwarmers, kneewarmers, and their skincare bundle. The jersey
looked great, but it was too small. I bought a Medium in everything. I'm
5'10" 175lbs. The shorts and kneewarmers fit well, but the jersey and
arm
You know what would be awesome: a derailleurless Rivendell frame just like the
Simpleone but with 135 rear spacing and some cable stops that make it ready to
handle this in 11:
http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/0/alfine.html#
or one of these:
http://www
That's encouraging actually. Maybe I'm being too much of a retrogrouch when
it comes to technology. With bikes, it's okay =)
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I have to admit I like those simple ones. I think I'd really like it in
maroon . If I didn't already have 2 rivendells one of which is green and my
resurrected Peugeot PX10 as a single-speed I'd be tempted:)
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I suggest that you check out the paints from your local hobby shop.
There are often a huge number of paints that are made for various
types of models (cars, military aircraft, etc.) that would allow you
to find something suitable. If you're looking for an exact match, you
might need to do some jud
I dunno. I think it might be just you, because I love it.
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Is it just me, or is this new format a whole lot less useful?
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You're welcome. Who is the shipper, and id there a tracking number?
>
>From: Eric
>To: RBW Owners Bunch
>Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 9:22 PM
>Subject: [RBW] Re: fs: Rivendell 650b wheels + extra tires/tubes GRAN BOIS
>
>Thanks to Ray these are headed to SF!
>
Looking for suggestions for touch up paint in the (white/cream) lug
area. Thanks
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on 7/1/11 7:15 AM, Jeffrey at unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote:
I have several large abrasions through the paint that have rusted. what do
you do to treat them? If I just paint/fingernail polish them will that stop
the rust underneath, or do I need to remove the rust first? If so, how?
Clean the rust
on 7/1/11 7:12 AM, Jeffrey at unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote:
I just removed the black anodization and rust from the cranks on my old
Bridgestone MB6 winter/beater/townie bike. They not stainless steel and are
a bit pitted.
Will they rust right up in my maritime climate?
What should I do to keep
I have several large abrasions through the paint that have rusted. what do
you do to treat them? If I just paint/fingernail polish them will that stop
the rust underneath, or do I need to remove the rust first? If so, how?
Thanks,
Jeff
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Thanks to Ray these are headed to SF!
On Jun 27, 10:21 pm, Ray Shine wrote:
> Would you also throw in four visiting team dugout tickets to Giants visit
> this week?
>
> >
> >From: Eric
> >To: RBW Owners Bunch
> >Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 12:34 PM
> >Subject:
I just removed the black anodization and rust from the cranks on my old
Bridgestone MB6 winter/beater/townie bike. They not stainless steel and are
a bit pitted.
Will they rust right up in my maritime climate?
What should I do to keep it from rusting?
Cover them in oil?
What kind of oil?
This is exactly why I disable every 'feature' Google tries to compel
me to use... check some innocuous box, and next thing you know, it's
spamming the world on your behalf!
On Jul 1, 3:38 am, Peter Brunn wrote:
> ---
>
> Peter B
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