John
Yes, 700x32 size tube. Sorry about neglecting to mention tube size
John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ
On Sunday, April 14, 2019 at 8:55:57 PM UTC-4, John McBurney wrote:
>
> I’ll check but I’m pretty sure. The side pockets are big. What size tube?
> 700x32?
>
> John
>
>
>
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Sean, I have an orange 64 frame to swap. Interested? Thanks. Bruce
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Oh man,
Those compass ones look super nice but I’d take the setup and power of the
cx70/50 any day over those any day. I’m no expert mechanic but I’ve used cantis
that with the way the compass ones do and, for me, they are a big pain. At this
point I
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It may also interest the readers to know that the origin of such a…errr…
*whimsical* name came from the original iteration of Ibis Cycles, that was
the purveyor of other whimsical names for bike components, such as the
infamous Handjob rear cable stop on some of their frames, and the ugly
welded
That's an argument for using one of these, Hugh!
https://www.jensonusa.com/Problem-Solvers-Locking-Headset-Spacer (as already
referenced by Bryan Cole in this thread).
I have the same idea, but with an integrated cable stop on my two threadless
bikes. It makes swapping stems or changing bar hei
I would explain it this way: the cap holds everything in place while you center
the stem and tighten the stem bolts. The stem is what actually holds everything
safely and securely together. With the stem bolts tightened, you could, if you
wanted, throw away the cap and go riding.
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You recei
The ease of adjustment for threadless stems is indeed so great that it is
astounding how hard it can be to describe properly...
That said, the gains offered by simplicity are offset by the frequency with
which one has to do it. For all the claimed complexity of threaded headset
adjustmemt, one doe
I’d describe them as flat/envelope-like. You get length and height, but there
is no depth.
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Yes. This is what kept me away from threadless for so long. It seemed so
complicated based on descriptions. In reality it’s super simple. So much so
that I questioned what I was doing the first few times. “Is the stem bolt
actually holding the fork on the bike?” Still runs thru my head.
--
Yo
It may be easier to adjust threadless, but no one on this thread has explained
it well. I'm not even going to try as I don't think I'm a trustworthy source
for the info, either. For such a simple procedure, it's stunning to me how hard
it is to get a straight answer on the internet for it.
--
Oh, and from 3 x 1 cm spacers underneath to the equivalent of 1
("equivalent" because the present stem's clamp is longer than the others
that I installed by about 1 cm).
On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 8:22 PM Patrick Moore wrote:
> ...
> I've gone from 8 cm and 10* or so rise through 4 iterations in le
Jim G's stem calculator is an easy - and cheap - way to estimate stem
length and reach. I used to make cardboard templates, but digital in this
case is better.
I've gone from 8 cm and 10* or so rise through 4 iterations in length and
angle to the present 10 cm and -17* on the Matthews, have have b
Us the top cap bolt only for initial bearing adjustment - bearing load -
before the stem is clamped down. (In fact, you don't even need the top cap
bolt to adjust bearing load, but it makes this easier) and hold it in place
with the stem clamp.
One trick is to adjust the top cap bolt -- before cla
On 4/14/19 8:00 PM, Erik Wright wrote:
I'm thinking about getting canti posts brazed onto my sidepull Sam
Hillborne to fit a wider tire / make wide tire installation easier.
Canti brakes would be replacing Paul Racers.
If I go this route, what are the best options out there? I figure top
of
I agree with this so much. My partner had a bike that was rescued and built
up by a friend - totally free and assembled with love, but still an
inexpensive Jamis something- or-other. She took it on long rides around the
city, to Coney Island, etc. The seat post kind of sucked and the saddle
would m
I've got 9 speed SunRace thumb shifters I'd donate.
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To post to
I have a brand new VO Crazy bar and quill stem. I decided not to use em. If
you can use em they are yours.
John
On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 8:34 PM Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow Haus Bicycles <
4824...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hey All!
>
> We're in the last phases of finalizing everything for Riv and our don
I’ll check but I’m pretty sure. The side pockets are big. What size tube?
700x32?
John
On Sun, Apr 14, 2019 at 8:18 PM 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:
> How large are the side pockets on the medium saddlesack? Can you fit 2
> rolled up tubes in
Hey All!
We're in the last phases of finalizing everything for Riv and our donated
Hubbahubbah.
Do you have any 9 speed parts laying around? Bosco handlebars? etc...take
a look-see at the link below for a parts list.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1U3bY8-FZaXw7SIsJkg2fkQNCtCtAlxafP3
CX50s are still available and functionally the same as CX70. But the answer for
power and ease of setup (and no cable stops at headtube and seat clamp) is
linear pull 👍
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I've fit one in..the width and height is big, but depth is kinda not-so-deep.
You'll get two folded tubes in one pocket easy, but keeping them in boxes
increases the mass a lot and unnecessarily.
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How large are the side pockets on the medium saddlesack? Can you fit 2
rolled up tubes in boxes in a side pocket sack??
The pictures show the side pockets almost flush with the bag, leaving very
little depth. Maybe just an illusion.
I am used to the side pockets on a Carradice type bag and
Locking spacer like this:
https://problemsolversbike.com/products/headset/locking_spacer_-_6788
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I'm thinking about getting canti posts brazed onto my sidepull Sam
Hillborne to fit a wider tire / make wide tire installation easier. Canti
brakes would be replacing Paul Racers.
If I go this route, what are the best options out there? I figure top of
the line is Paul, but what's a more afford
LD stands for Lame Designation. Because I hate cheesy smirking names for bike
parts.
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Threadless will become easy to adjust or readjust once you do it a few times
with the added benefit that you’ll only need an Allen hex key to do the whole
combo (size of the bolts may vary stem to stem so you may still need more than
one hex key in certain situations.) I’m not advocating for th
The L stands for Limp. I will leave the rest to your imagination.
On Sunday, April 14, 2019 at 4:56:15 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> And what does "LD" stand for?
> On 4/14/19 4:47 PM, lconley wrote:
>
> I seem to end up with LD type stems on most of my bikes with threadless
> headsets (to
Yes it is.
Frank
On Saturday, April 13, 2019 at 6:49:52 PM UTC-5, Edo wrote:
>
> On Thursday, 4 April 2019 14:20:32 UTC-4, Frank Brose wrote:
> > Marks Rack Sold
> > M12 Sold
> >
> > On Wednesday, April 3, 2019 at 3:20:09 PM UTC-5, Frank Brose wrote:
> > I'm done. I have the racks on the bik
And what does "LD" stand for?
On 4/14/19 4:47 PM, lconley wrote:
I seem to end up with LD type stems on most of my bikes with
threadless headsets (took a while before I figured out what LD stood
for). The exception is the HHH where I have the threadless Bullmoose
handlebars which clamp directl
Definitely heartwarming to hear about your daughter and your family. May
you have many wonderful adventures together.
Toshi in Oakland, CA
On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 4:54 PM Rachel P wrote:
> Hi folks!-new to posting the list but have been following for a few years.
>
> That's our (er, my daughte
I seem to end up with LD type stems on most of my bikes with threadless
headsets (took a while before I figured out what LD stood for). The
exception is the HHH where I have the threadless Bullmoose handlebars which
clamp directly to the steerer tube on top of a huge stack of spacers. The
LD st
Tom,
Sent an email last night to the email address you listed. Hoping you got it.
I’m interested in the black saddlesack.
Thanks,
Erl
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Beautiful bike. Mercifully, perhaps, it’s too small for me. Good luck!
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DP, re stem angles:
back in the day, virtually all quill stems had 73 (aka -17) deg. extensions.
With threadless stems 90 deg. is common, as is 84, 73 is easy to find too,
probably others as well.
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Yes, there's a schmillion angles and lengths for threadless stems. Fortunately
they usually come with open-face clamps so it's easy to buy a stack of cheap
used ones and fiddle with fit until you find what you like. Then buy a fancy
one!
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I've got 7, some a year old, some around 10 years old. I had one that
went from brand-new-hard to very soft in a matter of 100 miles / 2
weeks. They replaced it under warranty -- with the Ti rail model!
Other than that, I think I've had one that's needed serious tensioning.
On 4/14/19 11:57
Thanks, Kai! The idea to be sure and set the bearings via the top bolt first,
then tighten the stem bolt is key.
George, is that a threadless issue? I was looking at the slack headtube and
wondering how it's all going to play out with the wavy bars (arriving next
week), but that would be the ca
I don't dislike threadless headsets. In fact, I have several bikes with
'em. But one feature that have found to be a bit more annoying than with
the old threaded "quill" stems is the fact that they come in a variety of
different lengths and angles. Used to be, when you went to set up your
bi
Probably around 1000 miles.
Laing
On Saturday, April 13, 2019 at 7:52:42 PM UTC-4, Mario Rocchio wrote:
> About how many miles do you have on that flyer? Looks so nice.
>
> On Tuesday, February 12, 2019 at 5:40:19 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote:
> > B-17 is sold
> >
> > On Monday, February 11, 201
The top Allen bolt only does it's job (setting your bearing load) when the stem
bolts are loose. If they're tight (the stem bolts on the side) the top bolt can
do nothing. Fact is, you don't really need that top bolt and cap. It's not a
bad thing to have, but I used to faintly tighten the stem b
James,
Is it possible that the failing Berthoud saddles were waterproofed with
the same material, and this had a hand in breaking down the leather?
Not throwing stones here, just really curious.
John
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Oh. Yeah. I remember how derailures do not like wet, sticky, frozen, slushy mud
and snow. Yesterday afternoon we get 5-6" of spring snow (sadly, after my ride.
Oh well.). This morning's ride I took Beorn to see how it handles the mud.
Verdict was unsurprising: wider tires float more and yield be
Thanks for the story.
We planned a vacation in the area around the same time so I scheduled a fam
day just to check out the Festival on Thursday. First time for me as well,
but I didn't bring a bike. Since the focus of the event is racing and not
adventuring, I thought the bikes and tech on dis
Getting to know GBW includes my first ever threadless headset. A few questions:
-- Does tightening/loosening the top allen bolt tighten/loosen the headset and
thus effect bearing wear? If so, tips for proper tightening please?
-- Is adjusting stem height a matter of removing the top allen bolt a
James,
I am surprised by your experience that Berthoud saddles wore out
prematurely. How many saddles were affected? If it's a small number, it
could have been one hide of leather that wasn't as good as the others...
We've sold hundreds of these saddles, and amongst our team, we've got about
a
Beautiful bike! Will make someone very happy! Now I need to quit looking!
Karl
Nashville, TN
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That’s very frustrating and sad to hear. I wonder whether this is something
new-ish. I have 3 of their saddles and haven’t had this experience. But mine
were all purchased around 2015. May I ask if your experiences were more recent
than this? Maybe it’s some sort of new treatment of the leather
Och, James! How frustrating for you and all involved! May I ask what Berthoud's
response and support as been?
My experience with my saddle, which I've had over a year, in extensive use, is
it is by far my preferred saddle, though I've only a data point of one saddle.
Prior to reading this, I'd
Re: all the follow up questions about premature wear. The leather gets
stretched and broken in way to fast. They go from being hard as a rock to
super broken in within a half a year, and then instead of just staying
broken in, they start to break down. In other words, the saddle becomes to
h
Hey all,
It’s been a long time since I’ve been active on the listserve and am posting to
share a bike I just listed on Craigslist. I recently purchased a very expensive
electric cargo bike to be the family hauler and need to thin the stable to make
up some funds. See my listing below and let me
Yep. I'm at a loss also, but the bars have been shipped. A trade
happened! Thanks for the help.
On Sunday, April 14, 2019 at 3:09:41 AM UTC-4, Hetchins52 wrote:
>
> The interior diameter looks unlikely to accept a bar end shifter.
> Otherwise, is the shape or rise of the Promenade different f
The interior diameter looks unlikely to accept a bar end shifter.
Otherwise, is the shape or rise of the Promenade different from a Bosco? It
looks very much like it.
I don't see it on the "What Bars?" web site.
David Lipsky
Berkeley, CA
On Saturday, April 13, 2019 at 4:52:36 PM UTC-7, jonsan w
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