Well I have searched this thread for the word TORQUE..maybe I missed it.
NITTO strongly says torque the handle bar bolt 14- 16 Nm.
My suggestion disassemble the handle bar and stem. Clean all the parts
including any shims or spacers with alcohol . reassemble and only grease the
threads of the M 8
Paul
I agree with you that Nitto designed approx 1mm clearance for the hex nut
to shelf. I also agree it's a marginal design, and could be improved, but
it does work.
I should have cautioned Leah to look for 'excessive play' in the nut to
shelf which allows the nut to almost rotate fully.
Previous response to Paul is deleted but some of you will see it in email.
Please disregard, I misunderstood his post.
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If your implication is that everyone is supposed to know to use two wrenches on
a standard Technomic, everyone does not know this. The standard and Deluxe (or
Tallux) are otherwise visually identical and I presume most people use the same
single hex key on both, as with most other single-bolt st
The nut likely will not fit tightly against the shelf on a new replacement
stem. That's not how it's designed. I've wrenched hundreds, owned dozens,
and every one of them was exactly the same. You've got about 1mm of space
between the top of the nut and shelf/ledge, which allows the nut to rotat
I agree with John. Tell Riv, a place you've spent an Oh Lordy amount of money
and will again later this year when the Platypus happens.
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Leah
You should not be left holding the bag on this. I suggest contacting RBW,
struggling or not, and see what they can do for you. RBW and Soma are not
at fault if the stem did not meet design, but RBW or Soma should step up
and see what they can do for you. Soma seems to be not responding
I would discount user error. The design requires the pointy corner of a steel
nut to dig against an aluminum shelf and I can't see how this was ever a good
idea, but I've used them and torqued them lots without the design failing.
Lance Armstrong's teammates nicknamed him "Centimeter" because of
Thanks, Rob. I’m pretty small potatoes, but I’m flattered that you think I have
a social media presence. 😊
Paul, I know, I feel conflicted, too. I really should talk to Riv but can’t
bring myself to do it. I ordered the stem at a time that Riv was struggling and
needed business. Instead of gett
Having been in the bicycle components business, I'm a little out of sorts
thinking about how to address this post.
I'll start out by saying that I think Nitto is one of the best parts mfrs
in terms of design, QC and attention to detail.
I'll also say that I've used Nitto stems with this design
BBDD-
IMO, Nitto would be foolish not to warranty this stem (and bar, since mistakes
in one damaged the other.) Do they know how much you've $pent on their products
(and will)? And your massive social media presence?
Now, I'm not encouraging gouging Nitto (see what I did there?) for 'free'
stuf
John, you’re like Dr. House. Or Sherlock Holmes! Thanks for that astute
conclusion - I think you’ve nailed (bolted? Ha!) down the problem perfectly. I
was in contact with Soma, who talked to Nitto, but Nitto asked really
elementary questions like, “Is it the right size? Did she install it
corre
Leah
The pictures of the stem shelf were perfect. Sorry to hear the bolt was
too short.
The *direct cause *of the of the circular divot is Nitto drilled the hole
for the Stem Bolt *TOO LOW* in the stem clamp . The lower stem bolt/hex nut
resulted in the hex nut not being close to the shelf fo
Dang, the bolt is too short. I thought I was the only one who just when I
think I have the right parts, it doesn't work! Gash in the stem aside, that
steel looks nice and strong. Hopefully you'll get it working just right
soon. I'm a fan of nice clean chromoly parts on a bicycle and silver
cran
Yep, you ground a nice little divot out of that stem with the nut. Which annoys
me to no end because the nut shouldn't be spaced far enough away from the
surface to do that. Oy! But you've solved it by using a wrench on the nut so
c'est la vie. That's French!
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Aside from BBDD's stem issue, a number have noted that the sleeved bars
sometimes creak. I would expect that the sleeve is inflexible when clamped
properly in the stem. The bars flex quite a bit, and the flexing may deform the
inner bar a tiny bit at the ends of the sleeve and cause the creak.
Hear no evil, see no evil. I don’t ever want to look under there again!
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 23, 2020, at 6:05 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> The stem worked fine on her steel bar, I don't know if it has that burr mark
> on it and I think it's long gone now. I don't imagine even my slightly
The stem worked fine on her steel bar, I don't know if it has that burr mark on
it and I think it's long gone now. I don't imagine even my slightly obsessive
bike detective skills are going to ever solve how the dang thing got in there,
but I'd sure like to grab a piece of sandpaper and knock it
Joe
I think you are correct about something inside the stem clamp causing the
gouging and resulting in the looseness. The inside of the stem clamp
looks 'terrible" for a machined surface. The "gouged" Al bar worked in the
normal Technomic stem, so the markings on the bar sleeve and clamp are
Joe
Good catch on the burr. Are you saying the burr interfered with the
initial tightening of the stem clamp, resulting in less than adequate
tightening force, allowing slippage and gouging?
Leah, can you confirm if a burr in the stem was/is present and if the bar
sleeve is gouged?
John H
Jeremy
I agree with your explanation of the 'creaking' of sleeved bars. Measuring
a B177 & B132 & a 1988 Sakae Road Champion, the sleeve is about 1.0mm,
probably slightly thicker to provide a sleeve ID < Bar OD for an
interference fit to the bar. I imagine the sleeve is heated and then
place
I'm still in the "it's the stem" camp. Reasons: 1. When she loosened it and
moved the bars up and down the noise was worse. 2. When she slid the bars out
there was a good bit of gouging on the sleeve like it was dragging on something
in there. 3. I saw a pic inside the stem and think I could see
I think the mechanical explanation with the sleeve would be that the joint
between the sleeve and bar is not uniform for the length of the sleeve and
thus there is some portion where it is not tight, so the sleeve and bar can
move ever so slightly in relation to one another under stress, produci
Leah
When you install the bolt & triangular nut, can you post a picture of the
"shelf" without any bolt or nut present?? If the shelf shows no signs of
missing metal where the hex bolt contacted it, then the hole for the bolt
was drilled lower than it should have been drilled. This is a pos
I never in a million years would have guessed the bolt would be different, too.
Oops!
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Yes, Jeremy, I think I’m doing 52 steel Boscos on the Platypus. I don’t want
bars with sleeves anymore.
For anyone who needs to know: If you want to rid the Technomic stem of the hex
nut and replace it with the triangular nut from Riv, make sure you also order
the bolt. Neither Mark nor I thoug
I can't say that I've read every post in the thread but just to echo something
Benz said: in my experience creaking is endemic with all of the various sleeved
Nitto bars, so if the bar in question is of the sleeved variety that's probably
the culprit in my mind. If I remember correctly the sleev
I think that's possible, Ray. I also have a theory that the stem ovalized a bit
when clamping on the new ever-so-slightly-smaller bar, but I saw a burr inside
that stem that the bar may have been dragging and creaking on.
Which reminds me, we need a nice tall quill stem with an open face clamp!
Thanks Joe and Benz.
Leah sent the videos.
She said she could find any sharp edges or burrs that would have made the
gouge.
It’s possible there was a chip or bit of shavings that made the gouge and
possibly contributed to the noise.
Ray
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On Saturday, June 20, 2020 at 11:09:18 AM UTC-7, Ray Varella wrote:
>
> Either way, I get the same results.
> And sometimes I click download and it just reopens the thread.
>
>
Ray, Leah's videos didn't play on my iPhone nor iPad, but was fine when
downloaded and played on the computer. I have
Ray, I saw a video where she loosened the clamp a bit and moved the bars up and
down..the noise was rather astonishing. I don't know what's causing that
particular sleeve to make such a racket with that particular stem, but the
dollop of Boeshield she added seems to have solved it.
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You rec
Either way, I get the same results.
And sometimes I click download and it just reopens the thread.
Thank you
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When you open them it should offer you “view” or “download”. Click download.
Should work! 😄
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 20, 2020, at 10:59 AM, Ray Varella wrote:
>
> I get a triangle with a slash through it when I try to watch the videos.
>
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I get a triangle with a slash through it when I try to watch the videos.
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Leah, just out of curiosity, was your headlight contributing to the ticking?
If it was loose enough for parts to fall off, it may be adding to the vexing
sound.
Ray
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On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 1:21:45 PM UTC-7, Doug Hansford wrote:
>
> Mark,
> The same thoughts went through my head today as I drove my 2002 Toyota
> 4Runner that has more than 205,000 miles on it. It runs so well and is
> solid and just well-made. But, it has a few rattles and quirks that I
I did another 10 mile loop again last night and no ticking/creaking or
anything. While I was out, I got an email from Soma saying they forwarded my
email (which had videos that I hope show the situation) to Nitto and they hope
to hear back this weekend. I’m glad Nitto will know about it; stems a
This thread brings to mind a solution from “Zen and the Art of Motorcycle
Maintenance”...
... beer can shim! When his riding companion encountered a similar problem,
the author suggested cutting a shim piece out of the side of his freshly
emptied beer can. The combination of soft metal and re
Shoot, John, you’re right again - yes, I did think I heard the noise once or
twice on 6.17 but it was rare. Sorry!
I’m still monitoring it. We’ll see what tonight brings. Thanks for all your
help. I’m definitely better off having read this thread.
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 18, 2020, at 2:11
Leah
OK, I thought the tick came back on 6/17 10 mile ride. If no tick, then
use the triangular nut you bought from RBW, since it will absolutely
contact the stem shelf and allow for bolt tightening without using a
wrench.
I still would NOT lube the stem/bar interface. The link to St Shel
The problem for me if the stem/bar junction is ticking/creaking is I'll worry
myself to death over it. It steers the bike, it's gotta look, feel and sound
safe.
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Mark,
The same thoughts went through my head today as I drove my 2002 Toyota
4Runner that has more than 205,000 miles on it. It runs so well and is
solid and just well-made. But, it has a few rattles and quirks that I can
live with that don't affect the performance or safety. Leah's bike and
co
I have a slightly different view of the situation. The world is not
perfect. Even Japanese manufacturing tolerances. Even Rivendell. But let's
be clear, this is a high class problem, a slight ticking noise. As I
understand it, the bars were never slipping in the stem. Nothing came with
the wron
John, what you say is true. Nitto products are expensive and should work
perfectly. And even though you’re right and I should talk to Riv about this, I
don’t think I can do it. If I discovered it was the bar (which I purchased from
Rivendell’s website directly), I would definitely ask for their
Joe
I would expect Nitto to have designed the tolerances of THEIR stem and
THEIR bar to mate every time, if both are labelled 25.4mm. IF a problem
occurs, Then it is POOR manufacturing, and not a "Oh Well, that's how it
goes, we just have to accept it". Certainty not what we expect from
Jap
I believe the situation is this, based on information I have: the steel bar fit
in both of her stems just fine, and is ever-so-slightly bigger in diameter than
her new alu Bosco, a phenomenon I also discovered whilst owning both bars.
They're both nominally 25.4, but one is more and one less.
Leah
Based on everything so far, I think the problem is:
The stem clamp is oversized and not a 'true' 25.4mm clamp. It results in
insufficient clamp force on the AL bar allowing sipping, but provides
enough force on the CrMo bar to hold it in place.
Why: The Al bar does not creak in a Techon
Here is another thing someone PMd me that may be of interest. I have not done
this yet, but it sounds like a good next step If the ticking returns:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html#bars
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 16, 2020, at 10:15 PM, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!
> wrote:
>
> I have t
On Thursday, 18 June 2020 02:29:32 UTC+10, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> That is the wrong nut. Nitto uses a triangular shaped nut on the back
> side. I don’t know that what you’re using is dangerous, but you should by
> all means get the proper Nitto nut.
>
The Technomic Deluxe uses the triangular nut
Wrenching bikes as needed can be frustrating but it's fun too. Lone Wolf
Leah you are tuned to every single noise a bike makes, just as I am. I
think there was a time I didn't focus so much on noises; but, as I started
installing and switching out parts I think I paid more attention to noises
a
Leah - it all has to do with your frame dimensions and how high you want
the bars to be. I can't recall how I wound up with that stem in the first
place, but it turned out to be way too long for the way I wanted to set up
a particular bike. So, at the first opportunity I passed it along to the
George, my heart is warmed anyway! 😂 Clearly I did not read that post
correctly!
I ordered the triangle nut from Riv already, but thank you. Also, you’re the
second person to have said you had a Tall Boy stem and got rid of it. But why?
I adore this tall stem and can’t get used to anything les
OK, that's fine. Whatever you decide to do. But I wasn't referring to the
entire stem, just the triangular nut and the bolt with it so you can
replace the ones that aren't working. As far as the entire tall stem is
concerned, I used to have one of those so I went down to root around in my
par
George, that’s so, so kind. I’m hoping to find another 280 mm tall stem,
however. They’re rare like unicorns, so I’m guessing you have the 225 mm. But
thank you so much - that was heart-warming. ❤️
Leah
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 17, 2020, at 12:16 PM, George Schick wrote:
>
>
> Leah - if y
Leah - if you want one like Eric shows (the kind that's also on your son's
bike) I have one on an unused Nitto stem I can let you have just for the
asking. Lemme know and I'll drop into an envelope.
On Wednesday, June 17, 2020 at 11:33:40 AM UTC-5, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!
wrote:
>
> The one
There are gazillions of stems out there that use a standard nut like this. I’ve
got a few. The triangle nut is perhaps more elegant, but there’s no reason why
a hex nut won’t work just as well at the simple job of clamping down on the
‘bars.
--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
Insta: @CampyOnlyGu
This whole boondoggle reminds me that I'm SO over these stems - no matter how
pretty they are - and want Analog to make a slightly taller w(Right) Stem in
silver with the open face clamp and sell it to Leah.*
*I can't add to any of the advice already given here, this is solely a
complaining pos
"Don’t know why this stem chewed up my bars ... "
I don't think this is uncommon. Nitto sells a tool to help avoid it.
https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-tool-4-stem-handlebar-clamp-spreader/stem_tool_nitto__870-900-11_870-900-11/product
A large flat head screwdriver, or some such, can sometimes work
Thanks, Ted! You are right, it’s a Delux, and that’s the stem that gets the
triangle nut. However, it doesn’t come in the 280mm height. I’m hopelessly
ruined for shorter stems now; the 280 is where it’s at!
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 17, 2020, at 9:53 AM, ted wrote:
>
>
> The photo Eric po
Riv shows out of stock so I called and luckily, their crackerjack mechanic
answered the phone. Mark said lubricate the interface (stem/bar) and use wrench
to stabilize nut. Meanwhile, he found a triangular nut to sell me, so I’ll try
that, too. The shelf that the hex nut snugs up against is too
The photo Eric posted looks like a Technomic Delux. What you are describing
sounds like a plain Technomic.
If you want to find a 50mm Technomic Delux, I suggest trying Ben's /
Milwaukee cycles
https://www.benscycle.com/
https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-ntc-dx-technomic-deluxe-long-quill-stem/s
Some models of stem have the triangular nut, whereas others have the
hexagonal nuts. It's not dangerous as long as it's torqued to the right
spec. I also had one Nitto stem where the hexagonal nut can't quite stay
put against the ledge, but I have no issue using a wrench to hold it while
tighte
Rivendell sells them for $5, or you can just put a wrench on the nut you
have.
Laing.
On Wednesday, June 17, 2020 at 12:35:21 PM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
> Rivendell? Anybody who sells Nitto parts should be able to get one.
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube
Rivendell? Anybody who sells Nitto parts should be able to get one.
--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy
> On Jun 17, 2020, at 9:33 AM, Leah Peterson wrote:
>
> The one on my teenager’s Clem has that. I’d love to have it for this stem -
> wh
The one on my teenager’s Clem has that. I’d love to have it for this stem -
where do I get it?
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 17, 2020, at 9:32 AM, 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch
> wrote:
>
> Here is what you should have:
>
>
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyonly...@me.com
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
Eric, that’s the nut that came with it, and it’s the same nut on the other
Technomic stem I have. How can it be wrong? Both stems were purchased new.
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 17, 2020, at 9:29 AM, 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch
> wrote:
>
> That is the wrong nut. Nitto uses a triangula
That is the wrong nut. Nitto uses a triangular shaped nut on the back side. I
don’t know that what you’re using is dangerous, but you should by all means get
the proper Nitto nut.
--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy
> On Jun 17, 2020, at 9:2
Grease?
Ryan
West Michigan
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I have the extra tall Nitto stem with 50 mm reach. SomaFab makes it, Riv got it
for and sold it to me and I love it. Everything seemed fine and then I gave my
Clementine that major makeover I’ve gone on about on a separate thread. While I
was lightening my bike I decided I should swap the cromo
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