I used gorilla clear tape on fork legs, front rack and the downtube run to the
rear fender connection. Like Jeff, wanted to drill holes but i chickened out.
The tape is very sticky, the internet ad shows a happy parent repairing a
kiddie pool under water or a leak on the outside. It may not be a
If you happen to have a cantilever Sam I highly recommend the Busch &
Müller Cross Bracket.
On Monday, January 28, 2019 at 8:28:47 AM UTC-8, Neil Doran wrote:
>
> So many excellent responses, thank you!
>
> I neglected to mention that because my Sam has a pump peg, I have a
> full-size Zefal tha
The Seculas are very nice and bright lights (steady only) and -- I learned
this from Kelly at K-Lites -- are designed to prevent overvolting;
apparently the K Lite puts out enough power (it charges a large capacitor
in a separate box) to blow unprotected rear dyno lamps (Thanks Steve Kurt,
I think
I lived with the benefits and deficits of battery lights for 10 of my 12 years
of year round commuting.
The inability of knowing how much charge remains in regular (or rechargeable)
batteries or what effect cold will have on them broke the decision making tie
for me. I was stuck in the cold an
So many excellent responses, thank you!
I neglected to mention that because my Sam has a pump peg, I have a
full-size Zefal that lives permanently beneath the top tube. So it makes
some sense to run the wire along that mess. I also have a permanent mass of
bags in front (Wald basket with shopsa
This is something I've never found a particularly elegant solution for on a
bike without full fenders, framebag, etc.
Usually I ziptie or tape to and run along the rear brake cable and housing.
Then wrap around the seatstays. The black wire will stand out on a
non-black frame but its functiona
I'm with you PM on doubling up front and rear lights on my QB commuter.
Dyno lights front and rear are very reliable while the second pair are
rechargeable Trek lights. More than once, I've got home or to work and
found one of the battery lights had gone out, needing a charge.
As for clean rout
I have used battery rear lights with dyno front lights many times, and I
agree that with modern LEDs a battery rear makes a great deal of sense.
But, speaking only for myself, I like the "no though involved" aspect of a
dyno tail light -- and there is also the fact that yes, I've had rear
battery l
I'll be the contrarian here, and ask if you would consider using a
battery-powered rear light instead of having ugly runs of wire to the rear
light. Dynamo rear lights are usually running at 0.3 watts, so even one
AA-sized Eneloop will have enough for more than 10 hours of operation (>3
watt-ho
Good masking tape doesn't take paint off (especially bicycle paint), and
leaves no residues. However, the adhesive is also pretty weak, and thus
wouldn't be an acceptable tape for securing wire runs to the rear light.
On Sunday, January 27, 2019 at 12:11:18 AM UTC-8, ttoshi wrote:
>
> Don't kno
Thanks for this clarification; I may very well give it a try, since the
Dahon (a fixie) has no rear brake along which to run the tail light wire,
and zip ties (black! On light tanny-cream!) look ugly.
I've used rubber cement, from Office Depot or what have you, for patching
tubes, and while it did
My Homer is a relatively new Waterford - I wish I had the foresight to
order my frame pre-drilled. Theoretically you can drill a clean hole
without any need to repaint / touchup?
On Sunday, January 27, 2019 at 7:33:54 AM UTC-8, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>
> After checking in with Grant on my Saluki
Tony
This is exactly what I’d like to do but absolutely refuse to do myself. Ideally
I’d have it done when I get my Saluki modded for braze on centerpulls, a rear
cable stop and widened chainstays somehow. And painted Chevrolet Synergy
green. But that’s for after I get a job.
Until then it’s
After checking in with Grant on my Saluki I drilled a hole in the downtube to
head tube lug window which I then chamfered. The exit hole is about an inch up
the seat tube also chamfered. Drilling the frame isn't for the faint of heart
but it worked for me and does clean up the wiring. My corr
Patrick - yes I think that’s it.
I’m no expert on adhesives but the shoe goo packaging states it’s fit for
leather, rubber, vinyl and canvas applications. Like you I’ve used shoe goo for
its intended purpose many times in the past, so I was surprised how gummy it
was after 24 hours of curing.
Don't know about packing tape--probably depends on tape and paint. Will
masking tape take paint off walls or do you pay extra for the blue tape?
Probably a similar thing...
Toshi
On Fri, Jan 25, 2019 at 2:27 PM Kurt Manley wrote:
> Will regular packing tape damage the paint when you take it of
Shoe Goo would be wonderful if it didn't finally congeal to a immovable
mass. I've used it for almost 40 years for running shoes and cycling shoes,
and I use it for a lot of miscellaneous around-the-house fixes; but never
in an application where I might have to remove it after it has dried hard.
He
I use Shoe Goo to run the wiring under the top tube on my Homer. Pretty
much invisible, which is visually excellent. One thing to note is I
shoulder my bike multiple times per day (apartment, BART, etc), so I need
to reapply the goop every so often to keep wire fixed to frame. It stays
pretty g
I would think about silicone to the ferules or the brake/shifter housing (or
even cables!). That way you avoid the frame but have it attached to a
nearly-permanent fixture on the frame.
Then again I just wrap and pray usually.
-J
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I have use very small zip-ties loosely to tie the dyno wire to rear brake
cable. Then it is zip-ties to rack strut and rack itself. It qualifies as
semi-clean, IMO :)
On Friday, 25 January 2019 08:49:36 UTC-8, Neil Doran wrote:
>
> I just added dyno power and front/rear lights to my Sam. The
Will regular packing tape damage the paint when you take it off? Asking for
an, umm, friend who taped their dynamo wire to the bottom of the top tube w
packing tape
On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 11:12:21 AM UTC-8, ttoshi wrote:
>
> Hi Neil,
>
> 3M makes some helicopter tape. It is more exp
I'll throw some photos up when I get a chance. I use burly outdoor rated
cabling rather than co-axial: https://www.mcmaster.com/7000t32
Alternatively, you could use some newbaums wrapped around the wire to make
a snugger fit.
On Friday, January 25, 2019 at 10:15:01 AM UTC-8, Neil Doran wrote:
>
Personally, I would still go under the downtube because the cable will
never be in the way. If you plan on using fenders later and wanted to be
slick you could wire in a connector just after it swoops under the bb,
which, if you put on fenders and wanna disappear the wire under the rear
one, y
Hi Neil,
3M makes some helicopter tape. It is more expensive, but it won't rip off
the paint from your bike if you need to adjust the tape. I think that
would be the benefit of paying more for the tape.
Toshi
On Fri, Jan 25, 2019 at 10:15 AM Neil Doran wrote:
> Collin, nifty idea! I wouldn'
Collin, nifty idea! I wouldn't mind a pic or two if you get time. But it
sounds like you might be working with coaxial cable, which is thicker 'n'
stiffer than what I am using, and likely better suited to those P
clamps...but I do have some of those clamps somewhere...
Ttoshi, yes, I have seen
I use my 1/2 framebag to route my cables through the main triangle, then
use the plethora of brazeons on the seatstays with the p-clamps provided
with honjo/simworks fenders
(https://sim.works/collections/small-parts-simworks-by-honjo/products/4rclipset)
to do a clean route and allow for easy
I would not categorize my routing job as particularly nifty or clean, but I
use color-matched zip ties. Just keep in mind that a hidden wire that's on
the wheel-size of the chain stay is more venerable to damage from road
debris.
Tom
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