Robin wrote:
Why are you
guys still using PL259 connectors
on any thing but HF?
Because manufacturers like GE and Motorola use(d) them for everything
including 800 megs. While BNC and N connectors offer a constant
impedance type connection, there isn't anything inherentl
If you know how to solder, a made to fit soldered on connector is
soo much better than anything crimp on. Nothing beats a positively
solid connection!
Robin wrote:
Why are you
guys still using PL259 connectors
on any thing but HF? If you must use PL259 connectors, at le
Why are you guys still using PL259 connectors
on any thing but HF? If you must use PL259 connectors, at least use a quality crimp-on
instead of cobbling together the former.
BTW. The only flavor of RG-214 I have ever
seen is silver plate over copper braid, 98% braid on the first shiel
Hey Neil and every one,
Watch out as well there is a different between
RG-214 AND RG-214/U one is like RG-8. the /U is double shielded and silver.
I though I got a deal one time. It was not a deal. The coax said RG-214 but
no /U
be careful! You could get burned.
Very best of 73,
Russ, W3CH
-
Also, the 'real' RG-214 is seriously more expensive.
Neil
Glenn Little WB4UIV wrote:
>
> RG-214 type cable looks like RG-214 from the outside. However, it is not
> true RG-214, hence the use of "type" in the name.
>
> True RG-214 has a silver plated center conductor as well as two silve
John;
I am working on developing and documenting a more intrusive
connection method which may turn out to be a "best method" however, the
simpler solution would be to take control of the audio to the tx by
connecting directly at the exciter door, and use discriminator or vol hi
for rx
> "Gareth Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have been fortuitous to even find an 8
> port one. All unused ports are left open
> (Except for TX1, TX2 and the stub).
The unused ports should have covers over
them. A "poor mans" cover is a foil cap
with a surplus antenna shipping coax
c
I have
used 1/4” Superflex cable on PL-259 connectors with much success. I solder the connector adapter (RG-58
adapter – sorry don’t remember the model number offhand) to the shield through
two holes (I drill them myself) in the barrel of the adapter. I also needed to open-up the adapt
I have never had problems using LMR-400 - just secure it well with a
cable tie every foot or so. That way the cable should not move around and
cause any "noise" issues. There is no doubt that some Andrews LDF-4 or
other hardline is better, but if you use non hardline type cables it is hard
t
Hi Dave, wanted to say thanks for the help. The receiver
went into the repeater last evening, and what a major imporvment.
Handhelds can get in from 15 miles away now. With an antenna height of
only 100', that is pretty good in my book.
Mathew
- Original Message -
Fro
Lawyers ??
73, Dick, W1KSZ
-Original Message-From: Scott
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2004 1:41
AMTo: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comCc:
ScottSubject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Coax
Question
Thanks AllSounds like I'd better go with some
--- Scott Overstreet <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> OK guys ---I hear you all saying that hard line is
> better but none of you have said what is the actual
> problem with 9913 flex or LMR-400.
It's been said over and over, the foil rubs against
the braid and causes noise. This is especially bad
Yep,I had one that was noisy,returned it for a replacement. No noise on HF
thru 1296. Still have noise from the new Motorola cable boxes with no help
from Adelphia.
Original Message -
From: Joe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2004 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder
RG-214 type cable looks like RG-214 from the outside. However, it is not
true RG-214, hence the use of "type" in the name.
True RG-214 has a silver plated center conductor as well as two silver
plated shields.
RG-214 is the newer designation for RG-9. Early RG-9 had one copper and a
silver pl
Be careful of these, they can cause RFI in the VHF
range. We were working on a noise problem on the
147.06 repeater here in Connecticut a while back and I
noticed interference got worse when doing a
sensitivity test. The noise proved to be external to
the repeater equipment, and it got better wh
Look on ebay, there is a guy selling 1/4" hardline for very cheap. Also a
PL259 will solder right on it. To get the ground soldered, don't worry
about the wholes in the middel of the connector, but rather solder at the
end of connector to the outer conductor.
Mathew
- Original Message
We do that for a lot of my heating customers,its called a Winter Watchman.
It can also be used to trigger an ADT alarm or an autodialer.Been using the
diode in series with incandecent lamps for years,triples the life.I have
since changed all my lamps to energy saving flourescent screw ins and
remo
Larry, that is a very good idea.
Neil
Larry Lockard wrote:
>
> At 06:37 AM 11/27/04, "Joe K1IKE" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Heating: I use a 40 watt light bulb in my repeater
> > for heat. I have it plugged into a "Freeze Alarm"
> > unit and set it to 55 degrees. The Freeze Al
I never understood either why 214 is quoted as 99% shield with it's 2 braids. I
would think it would be 100% with lots to spare.
The 100% shield designation comes from having both a braid and a tape shield.
The tape is theorietically the 100% shield and the braid is placed over it to
act as a
At 06:37 AM 11/27/04, "Joe K1IKE" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Heating: I use a 40 watt light bulb in my repeater
> for heat. I have it plugged into a "Freeze Alarm"
> unit and set it to 55 degrees. The Freeze Alarm is
> something used up in the North that you normally plug
> a light into and
Thanks AllSounds like I'd better go with some
sort of hard line for my between unit RF interconnects to keep between
cable leakage to tolerable limitsand probably noise too. But this brings up
another issue: forgetting about noise for the moment ---how can a 214 type cable
which is
The Teflon and silver connectors I have used absolutely will not stay tight.
Now it says Amphenol or Andrews or it doesn't go to the repeater site. Yes
they "shor do solder purty", I am still wondering about the magic you used
to get the aluminum soldered. Can't imagine that's actually - well y
OK guys ---I hear you all saying that
hard line is better but none of you have said what is the actual problem with
9913 flex or LMR-400. In other words---What is wrong with a quality foil under
braid "100%"shielded foam cable and I'm assuming use between receiver
and duplexer, transmitte
Don't forget RG-214 (double-shielded RG-213)
Roger Hansen, W6TOZ
Auburn, WA
Yahoo! Groups Links
To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Your use of Yahoo! Groups i
I just made some cables for my repeater to replace the RG-213 between duplexer
and radios. The only double shielded coax I could find locally from my "Hook
up" was something called Certified Quality Flexi 4XL 8IIA. It looks like a
flexible version of 9913 with a stranded center conductor wrap
Foil under braid tends to make noise into duplex systems! The two
dissimilar metals against each other move slightly and noise is made.
Hardline also provides better isolation (another aid in preventing
things such as PIM, desense, etc.). Noise gets worse at closer split
frequencies (ie -
The foil shielded cable is a noise generator. 99%
of the time you will experience noise in duplex service with foil shielded
cable.
As far as what to use for interconnections, you
obviously weren't reading the previous posts. Use 1/4" superflex, RG-142,
RG-400, RG-213 along with a few o
Hello Everyone,
My callsign is KB4ZGO. I would like to run an Idea of mine past the
group. My idea is like the TV show "Monstor garage" I would like to
build a large size simplex repeater. I know it can be built!
I know Radio Shack had a COS device called a simplex repeater
controller. Thi
Looking for recomendations for interfacing to the GE MastrIIe
(controller will be an RC-210).
Thanks,
John/N4SJW
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Oh yeah, forget the other half of your question,
1/4" Hardline bends real nice inside the cabinet. I have two repeaters in
one cabinet, and the 1/4" superflex does a nice job.
Good Luck with the project.
Mathew
OK guys ---I hear you all saying that
hard line is better but non
Add a little butter on that Toast, hihiChanged the voltage
and no noticble change other than the security it's electrically correct.
THanks.
Mathew
- Original Message -
From:
Mark
Holman
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 26, 200
I will tell you first hand, NOISE AND
DESENSE. I asked the same questions not long ago, and found
the reuslts to be true. I have back 15 years later after a quiet time from
electronics, of which most I have lost along the way. But here's the
story. I just installed a new tower for th
At 11:07 PM 11/27/2004, you wrote:
> >
> > Hello Everyone,
> >
> > My callsign is KB4ZGO. I would like to run an Idea of mine past the
> > group. My idea is like the TV show "Monstor garage" I would like to
> > build a large size simplex repeater. I know it can be built!
>SNIP<
Yes, simplex r
I think you might have missed what the simplex repeater was all about. It
is not actually a repeater, it has a digital chip that records the voice and
then retransmit it. So this repeater that you are wanting to build would
have to have a DVR that is capable of retransmission. Not sure what you
Hi Ian, very informative. I wonder what calc
program you recommend?
This is for Transmit combining at 83 MHz and at
present I am utilising 3/4 wavelength coax (213) from the cavities to the
porcupine.
There is only two transmitters on at present and
the stub somehow likes to be shorter
35 matches
Mail list logo