I don't think there are any drain plugs on this antenna. connection seals
were checked and re-done. I am not familiar with the desense tests, but
both repeater and duplexer were replaced. New duplexer tested at more than 100
db isolation and power is about 75 watts .Problem must be with
Have you swept the Antenna and Transmission Line with a Site analyzer or a
Comms Analyzer / RF Bridge?
Peter
On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 8:35 AM, radi...@aol.com wrote:
I don't think there are any drain plugs on this antenna. connection seals
were checked and re-done. I am not familiar with
Yes it has been swept. (not by me, by someone who knows the commercial
repeater business) Nothing found. But remember this is an intermittant thing.
In a message dated 8/10/2010 9:50:44 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
petedcur...@gmail.com writes:
Have you swept the Antenna and
Hi Kevin,
The desense is a staticy reception of weaker signals( ie an HT at 25
miles) It had gotten worse as it started to affect strong signals too. If the
transmitter was turned off, the repeater could hear just fine. Problem is
intermittent and often followed a rainy day. We replaced
radi...@aol.com wrote:
Hi Kevin,
The desense is a staticy reception of weaker signals( ie an HT at 25
miles) It had gotten worse as it started to affect strong signals too.
If the transmitter was turned off, the repeater could hear just fine.
Problem is intermittent and often followed a
Hi,
Juts a thought:
Sometimes certain antennas have a drain plug at the bottom and sometime one
at the top. You should remove the drain plug at the bottom for normal
mounting or the one at the top for inverted mounting.If you don't water
can ingress, then can't escape and build up.
radi...@aol.com wrote:
Hi Kevin,
I have confirmed that 2 of the 4 finals are bad. both are on one side
of the push pull. Both open base connection One has collector to
emitter short. The other open emitter.
I have not yet checked the drivers I might be able to test them
without removal. I
Hi Kevin,
I have confirmed that 2 of the 4 finals are bad. both are on one side of
the push pull. Both open base connection One has collector to emitter short.
The other open emitter.
I have not yet checked the drivers I might be able to test them without
removal. I have a friend trying to
I have a brand new - never used - TLD 1693 VHF amp that I purchased as a
back up for a local club. I tried to find - buy - and substitute other
final transistors and discovered - there are no more around. They had
the MSR2000 repeater and this amp has the M1131 - M1133 - M1134
transistors in
radi...@aol.com wrote:
Sucess!
I completely cleaned and re tinned my Weller 8100 tip, added some
solder, and got heat transfer to pop it up. I was not aware of the
fish paper that the wires came thru. Now to troubleshoot the amp. It
probably has some blown transistors as well as the cooked
Tom Parker wrote:
Why has no one suggested replacing the guts of this beast with a
Mitrek PA?
Why?
Kevin
Sucess!
I completely cleaned and re tinned my Weller 8100 tip, added some solder,
and got heat transfer to pop it up. I was not aware of the fish paper that
the wires came thru. Now to troubleshoot the amp. It probably has some blown
transistors as well as the cooked caps and 12 ohm
Why has no one suggested replacing the guts of this beast with a Mitrek PA?
radi...@aol.com wrote:
Sucess!
I completely cleaned and re tinned my Weller 8100 tip, added some
solder, and got heat transfer to pop it up. I was not aware of the
fish paper that the wires came thru. Now to
Thanks Kevin,
I think you are on to something. The areas that are pinned down seem to be
close to where the power supply wires enter the board from the underside. I
am wondering if the wires are glued down with RTV or something. Cautious
prying is still not getting me anywhere.
Marty
radi...@aol.com wrote:
Thanks Kevin,
I think you are on to something. The areas that are pinned down seem
to be close to where the power supply wires enter the board from the
underside. I am wondering if the wires are glued down with RTV or
something. Cautious prying is still not getting me
OK Kevin,
I had already tried the desoldering with a really good Pace unit, but the
heat did not transfer well. I will get a buddy to help and use my Weller
guns. I have a big 250 watt one here somewhere.
Marty
radi...@aol.com wrote:
OK Kevin,
I had already tried the desoldering with a really good Pace unit, but
the heat did not transfer well. I will get a buddy to help and use my
Weller guns. I have a big 250 watt one here somewhere.
Marty
Let us know how you make out - or, if you need more
Motorola didn't do anyone any favors with that design. Same thing on the Micor
PA.
Chuck
WB2EDV
- Original Message -
From: Kevin Custer
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dissasembly of msr 2000
martinfriedman67 wrote:
Our Amateur radio club's Motorola MSR 2000 continuous duty amp needs repair.
I cant figure out how to remove the amp board from the heat sink. I removed
all screws from corners as well as the transistors. It seems to be held by
the center, just below the tall air
Our Amateur radio club's Motorola MSR 2000 continuous duty amp needs repair. I
cant figure out how to remove the amp board from the heat sink. I removed all
screws from corners as well as the transistors. It seems to be held by the
center, just below the tall air variable cap. I tried heating
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