Sounds about right. With no deposits to speak of, Faraday is probably
fairly close.
Most people can perceive a metallic flavor 5 PPM ionic and up but not
generally 4 PPM and under.
ode
At 03:12 PM 6/24/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>> ### 200 microamps is 2 milliamps, right?
>
>
>No, I meant 0.2ma. I
> ### 200 microamps is 2 milliamps, right?
No, I meant 0.2ma. I think this water is quite pure. Here were the results
of another (more documented) test.
200ml of de-ionised water.
2, 99. silver electrodes - 1.6mm dia and 45mm into the water.
PSU voltage at the terminals was 37.0V
Initial
Using Faradays equations doesn't account for silver oxide formation,
fallout and plateout. [ie waste]
It will tell you how much silver got off an electrode, but doesn't say
where it went.
Electrode deposits are an extreme variable. [Just guessing from eyeball
observations..10% to 60% ??]
If yo
I think 200 microamps is 0.2 milliamps (micro=millionths milli=thousandths),
2 milliamps would be 2000 microamps.
Paul H
- Original Message -
From: "Ode Coyote"
To:
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 1:02 PM
Subject: RE: CS> Home brewing problems
>
> ### 200 micro
### 200 microamps is 2 milliamps, right?
Some people stop at 20 milliamps..I prefer to keep the current down to 1
millamp per square inch of exposed electrode and stop at some voltage. [At
the very least, a graph made that way levels off so you can read it and
predict something with reaonable ac
> Is there any way of finding the PPM with the starting and ending current?
(a
> formula)
>
Try Herx13's spreadsheet for just this purpose:
http://www.silvermedicine.org/faradaycalculator.html
Yours
Kay
Kay Jennings
Bristol
England
mailto:somer...@tinyworld.co.uk
--
The Silver List is a moder
Thanks guys,
I have a better setup now. I have managed to get some de-ionised water from
RS. Farnell do something similar.
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/browse/Module.jsp?BV_SessionID=2141964067.10
88006431&BV_EngineID=cccdadclkkdgjjdcfngcfkmdgkldffl.0&cacheID=ukie&3265
459255=3265459255&st
Table top distillers can work.
Use a carbon prefilter initially to scrub out most volatiles.
Remove post filters.
Discard the first cup or so of water coming out.
Distill it twice if neccessary.
Keep the distiller very clean.
Don't fill the distiller all the way full.
Run it slow to prevent
That probably has more to do with electrode spacing and over 300 volts.
Water 'could be' bad too.
Ode
>
>Dave,
>
>Instant high conductivity indicates that the water is not adequately
>distilled (assuming you have not added salt or other contaminants). As a
>test, try a batch using Walgreen'
Dirty grey [will probably turn black in a day or so]Too much current
for the surface area of electrodes.
If it's yellow, still somewhat too much current, heat and or made it too
strong for the setup.
Most LEDs will burn out at over 20 milliamps.
Put a potentiometer and ammeter in series w
Hallo Dave,
to lower the current:
You could try placing the electrodes further apart. 50 or 60mm
You could use a lower voltage. Like 9v from a battery. Or less.
You could try to purchase distilled water BP or CP from a Chemist or
from university physics or chemistry laboratory.
I'll send you de
Hi Dave, you might have several problems here, first
try some de-ionised water, if you get the same results
try seperating your electrodes 3-4 inchs apart. The HP
printer power supply is alittle high in voltage
probably high in amps also ( i think those power
supplies run about 2 amps) look to see
I am not sure if this is economically feasible but have you considered
ordering a counter top distiller from
www.wholesalewaterdistillers.com
They are $99. I use it on my well water which has a hardness of 42. I
use an SG6 and it does not light up initially, indicating no
conductance.
Garnet
On
,
Paul H
- Original Message -
From: "Dave Lewis"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2004 2:29 PM
Subject: RE: CS> Home brewing problems
> Marv wrote:
>
> Instant high conductivity indicates that the water is not adequately
> distilled (assuming you have not added s
When it is switched on, the LED comes on immediately and is quite bright.
That is exactly how I use my generator to reject the distilled
water. I have an EC meter but use if for nutrient solutions and seldom use
it to check water.
Try distilling the water again, called "Double Dis
Sounds like 2 problems. First the water is not pure enough, distilled or not.
The LED should not come on as soon as you apply power. Second you need to be
current limiting.
Marshall
Dave Lewis wrote:
> Hi,
> I have had a go at making the CS by distilling my own water and making a DC
> CS generat
> I live in the UK. Does anyone know where to buy off the shelf distilled
> water for drinking? It's not that common here. That's why I tried making
> my own ;>
As I expect you've found out, it's almost impossible to get distilled water.
I use de-ionised water bought from a chemist shop, about
Marv wrote:
Instant high conductivity indicates that the water is not adequately
distilled (assuming you have not added salt or other contaminants). As a
test, try a batch using Walgreen's Distilled Water with nothing added.
Best regards,
:) Marv
End quote:
I live in the UK. Does anyone kn
Dave Lewis wrote:
Hi,
I have had a go at making the CS by distilling my own water and making a DC
CS generator. . . . . .
When it is switched on, the LED comes on immediately and is quite bright.
The bubbles start after about 1 second and a grey cloud comes off the other
terminal. It makes th
Hi,
I have had a go at making the CS by distilling my own water and making a DC
CS generator. The water is in an enclosed container with a hole in the top
and placed on a cooker. A tube comes from the top into a cold flask, where
the water then condensates. This water is used for the CS. The ge
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