Vance noted:-
Likewise -- I was lamenting the limited selection. There are wheels
available,
they're just not the ones I need
Mark Wood in the UK has Baldwin C-16 and 14T Heisler wheel castings (a la
Catatonk) and an enormous selection of _accurate_ British types. Pricey,
but the best.
Interestingly, wonder how knurled tread would work in our scales? I've got
a hunch it would grind up any rail with the possible exception of steel in
pretty short order -- just like a rotary file. Logging roads that ran on
wooden rails sometimes did use toothed drivers, however. So for the
I would like to see such a site . . . Charles
- Original Message -
From: "Ferdinand" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: Russia Iron (was Forced repaint)
As a commercial Photographer I
Yes, thanks very much. Helps one realize that 12" = 1' locos are large even
when they are small. I did not realize that two lowboys were required for
each trip. Charles
- Original Message -
From: "Ferdinand" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
HI Clark
Thanks for sharing the pics - WOW now that is
At 12:00 AM 2/25/01 -0800, you wrote:
We also had a master mechanic/ millwright/machinist
who used it on his auto engine (cyls) if it used oil when new, as they
frequently did in the '50s. It lapped the rings in and stopped the oil
getting up past the pistons. (snip)
Incidentally, it is great
Dear Walt, I have had numerous problems with cleaning track as I first
started out probably like alot of others on this page, With Electric steam
locomotives. What I had found worked the best was I went and bought a Paint
scraper that you would put a scaping pad on. sort of like a 3m pad. I
That is a good Idea, Our smaller gauges like HO, Lionel, and even American
Flyer haveused these tires in the past. The probelm with these are that the
rubber would breakdown and form a residue on the head of the rail. not
doing any good for the rail. One way around this is to get all metal
In a message dated 01-02-24 19:49:59 EST, you write:
Incidentyally, it is great for giving that final polish to slide valve
surfaces--good stuff.
Also works good for removing coffee stains from dentures and polishing
jewelry just remember to rinse well!!!
Salty
In a message dated 2/25/01 3:01:49 AM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I have a friend who once had outdoor steel bar "track"--it would rust
between runs, became somewhat pitted--great traction!
My outdoor aluminum rails seem very rough to the touch from the oxidization.
I have yet to run my Ruby on my R.R. , but in the 10 years of running with
track power the only thing I have used to clean the track has been WD-40.
I just walk around the layout and every five or six feet I spray two or
three feet of track with the WD-40, then run the engine over the track
The traction tires I'm talking about would be like putting a rubber band on
the wear surface of the wheel.
Keep your steam up!
Walt
I think oily rubber would be worse that stainless steel!
GaryB
Charles,
I own a small HO Triang diesel- 0-4-0-1957 variety--it has knurled hardened
steel wheels! Needed a carbide tool to cut the flanges down to size. Yep,
with our locos-especially powerful high speed passenger locs, the track
might get ground up.
Back to the rubber band box!!--like Walt
Welcome Steve!
Chuck Walters - President
Central New York Large Scale Railway Society
http://home.twcny.rr.com/cnylsrs
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2001 12:29 PM
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
Thanks Salty,
I'll remember to use it when I get as old as you and need dentures. Could I
use it to clean my sparkling caps, as Harry says it is (or was) made from
"diatomacious earth", that is,
the microscopic lime shells of diatoms found in sea water.
Sounds edible too!
Geoff.
In a
Hi guys,
At 02:09 PM 24/02/01 -0500, Roger WPW wrote:
In some of the photos from Diamond Head there was a photo of a Ruby that had
been converted to propane with the propane cylinder in a gondola .
Has anyone else thought about trying that, and what problems might there be
with that kind of
Clark wrote:
I keep wanting to add weight to
increase traction but haven't done so as of yet. Maybe someday.
Clark
I've been planning to do that too! Perhaps I'll flop an ankle weight over
one of my locos and see how it performs. It would be great on the Aster
Nord-which I no longer own!
Clark,
Great photos-especially the Eureka and Palisade# 4.
Actually, it should reside here in our Eureka!! Well at least "I found it"
on your site!!
Geoff.
Clark,
Great pictures! Any possibility of a side trip connected to your Oct. steam
up to see it?
Bob
I'll ask Dan what he thinks when I call about the boiler jacket. As a
rule he doesn't want a lot of folks coming by his home. He might be
persuaded to allow a small group of steam fans to stop by. We'll see.
CB
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Clark,
Great pictures! Any possibility of a side
The "rule of thumb" formula for calculating tractive effort in full-size steam
locomotives was 1/4 the weight on the drivers. I don't know how this scales,
but John Thomson added two or three pounds of lead weight to his Ruby and
reports that it pulls like a mule now. So, I suspect that our
Mark Wood in the UK has Baldwin C-16 and 14T Heisler wheel castings (a la
Catatonk) and an enormous selection of _accurate_ British types. Pricey,
but the best.
Yep, like I said ... a very limited selection (for most of our purposes). I would
love it if we could get something of the
For those of you who aren't on Sidestreet's mailing list, and have an interest
in the Aster "Lion".
-vance-
--- Forwarded message follows ---
Date sent: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 16:37:24 -0800
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
From: Sidestreet Bannerworks
Some people swear by it and some swear at it, but Lionel introduced
"magnetraction" about 40 or more years ago! It worked pretty good, but it was
also good for finding small steel screws, etc that may have dropped out along
the track.
As far as cleaning oil off the track, if you happen to
John used the same type stick on sheet weights that are available for
weighting wheels without using hammer-on weights. He lined the cab of the
loco with them and it does very well. On a similar subject, my ruby
pulled/pushed four 4-axle and three 2-axle cars last time I was over at
his place.
Hi Geoff,
Traction tyres or no.
Call them what you will. But the wheels are two piece, with
inner spoked wheels and a seperate wheel flanged rim approx.
.125" wall width.
(As all full size. prototypes). However the Aster,
s rims are probably stainless
The rubber tires LGB installs on locos does seem resistant to oils and
solvents that I have run through including steam oil and alcohol fuels. The
LGB tires are available for several sizes of wheels. All one needs to keep
them in place is to mill a small flat groove the size of the traction tire
I found I can clean my stainless or brass rail using LGB's track cleaning
block (mounted in a frame with two axles) and pushed by a loco to knock off
leaves. To clean oil and grime I use a rubber hand sanding block with a cut
to shape pad of cotton towel mounted instead of sandpaper. The towel is
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