I have radio control in my Ruby, just 2 servos, Johnson bar and throttle
works fine that is all you need.
Go to the hobby shop and buy one of the cheap 2 channel ground radios, with
stick controls not a wheel radio.
The servos that come with the radio are to large so you will need to buy a
pa
I have a few of those Cu strips left over. I understand that the newer units
do not use it, but do not have an aletnativve, Is that correct? I havent
bought a new radio for probably 6 or 7 years now!
Keep your steam up!
Walt
I can't speak for all consolidations, but the 3054 on the B&O branch in my
boyhood home had the firebox ABOVE the drivers. In fact, that is one of the
charactreristics of the Consolidations I'm familiar with that appeals to me.
There is alot of daylight between the tops of the wheels and the bottom
At 07:32 AM 15/06/03 -0700, Jeffrey Williams wrote:
What are your experiences with minimum practical sizes of fireboxes for
coal fired Ga1 steamers? More specifically, how narrow can they get and
still work well?
LBSC designed a couple of 'O' gauge, 'O' scale coal fired locos. Plans for
one of
Tom,
Dwight Ennis and Jeff Young have both written about radio controlling
the Ruby, so you may want to direct specific questions to them. But
your basic questions can be answered independent of the Ruby.
Two channels is enough for basic operation (throttle and direction).
You don't need to
Vance,
I suspect that while you may lose some, it's probably not enough to
worry about, to be worth the extra effort to make a "wet" backhead. A
few years back, when I was more active in the larger scales, a friend
brought up to maine his 1-1/2" scale British 0-4-0 tanker. It had a
Briggs boiler, w
> 3/4 to 7/8 inch wide grate between the water legs
This is probably the reason most Ga1 boilers have dry backheads and
fireboxes. You lose some heat by not having a water jacket, but if you
can't keep a fire going it doesn't matter. John Shawe just splits the
tubing a couple of inches length
Harry wrote:
> It looks like 5/16 ACR is the obvious choice. Unfortunately you will
> probably be asked to buy a 20ft stick to get the 2ft-3ft you need. I
> thought I had a stick which I would gladly share but it looks like I used
> it all.
Sounds about right, though I can't pack more than
Susan wrote:
> See: http://www.copper.org/tubehdbk/figures/figure3.html
>
> For info on collapse pressures of copper tube. Use the annealed table.
>
> Don't forget to allow the 8x safety margin and an allowance for wear.
Keep in mind that those tables already have a safety factor built into
them.
Jim,
You wrote:
> The 1:19 ratio is for the Length: ID.
> Try 3 x 3/8"OD or 4 or 5 x 5/16 perhaps.
>
> The Schools replacement boiler using a JvR type "C" layout that was
> published, uses two 1/2" tubes in a slightly longer barrel and that steams
> 2 cylinders about thye same size as you will wa
I need to get a radio control system installed in my Accucraft Ruby "Mimi"
in the next few weeks, for a demonstration.
I have seen one website that shows an RC installation in a Ruby, and he only
has two servos (Johnson bar and throttle). My questions:
1) Are two servos adequate? Do I need one
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SUMMER STEAMUP PRE-REGISTRATION DEADLINE LOOMS
Pre-registration for the National Summer Steamup --
wherein you save $10 and have the opportunity to
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FYI.
I just received the "Katalog" from Reppingen Dampfmodellbau. (Dampf = steam.) Not
only does he include the M5 x 0.5mm thread check valve that we're ordering, but there
is also a hollow bolt with the same thread. He sells a banjo fitting on the end of a
copper pipe to use with the bolt
Last week Steve Boylan stirred the pot with a question about appropriate
boiler tube and flue sizes for Ga1 steamers. So here's another boiler
dimension question:
What are your experiences with minimum practical sizes of fireboxes for
coal fired Ga1 steamers? More specifically, how narrow can
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