So what are the odds that the failed cap would be C13?
Is this cause for triskaidekaphobia? ;-)
Please pardon this random excursion outside the bounds of precision
time.
Bill Hawkins
(who learned not to let kakorraphiophobia lead me to osphresiolagnia
[bad odors, not erotic] in
I usually find that the pad itself has enough tin plating to melt and
adhere the part's termination so I tack it down like that, solder the
second termination, and then go back and solder the first termination.
On Mon, 7 Nov 2016 02:34:51 +, you wrote:
>The best way to hand solder small SMT
Thank you everyone for the superb set of replies to this posting over the
weekend. I'm sure I will have my 5071A boards working again shortly. Thanks
also for the generous offers on- and off-list from people who do this
professionally. The level of hands-on experience on this list is amazing.
+1
I only use tweezers for removal. I use the one-side-then-the-other
technique described elsewhere in this thread for mounting parts.
___
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
The real hack in the 5245 Nixie tube decoder is that the neon lamps were
the memory element.
hld
On 11/6/2016 2:15 PM, paul swed wrote:
Don't know what to say on the transistor. It may have been actually made
that way. They did lots of things back then. Yes familiar with the bcd
decoder its
The best way to hand solder small SMT parts is to put a blob of solder on one
pad, position the part, old it down with something (fingernail works well,
maybe tweezers), then touch that pad/solder blob with the iron. The blob
should melt and the part should push down into the blob. Make
Hi Tom
Thanks for the info. I think I should pay a visit to this 5071a again. There
are 5 more 5071a 200km away, I need to visit them next week. :)
regards
Li Ang / BI7LNQ
---Original---
From: "Tom Van Baak"
Date: 2016/11/4 00:42:46
To: "Discussion of precise time and
Hi
Welcome to Shenzhen. As far as I know there is no market that you can see
pile of OCXO. They were taken off from equipments, and the process is done in
the Qingyuan or Shanwei city Guangdong province. The seller might be in
Shenzhen, but the source is in Qingyuan/Shanwei. These city have
I run two Hakko 936 stations with 907 irons. I use the wide chisel tips,
and just heat both sides at once. The two Hakko stations are cheaper than a
set of Metcal tweezera(although I would love a set of those)
Nathan KK4REY
via Newton Mail
On 11/6/16 4:17 PM, Hal Murray wrote:
jim...@earthlink.net said:
tweezers to remove
single iron to install
use a orange stick to hold the part down while you solder each end.
How many hands does that take?
I normally use one to hold the iron and the other to apply solder.
You can hold
I tear off a short piece of solder and push it up against the part (with
orangewood stick) before picking up the iron.
Bob LaJeunesse
> Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2016 at 7:17 PM
> From: "Hal Murray"
> To: "Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement"
>
jim...@earthlink.net said:
> tweezers to remove
> single iron to install
> use a orange stick to hold the part down while you solder each end.
How many hands does that take?
I normally use one to hold the iron and the other to apply solder.
--
These are my opinions. I hate spam.
A 2N1038 is in a TO-5 or TO-11 package.
A 2N1038-2 is a modified or selected part.
Is this transistor pressed into a hexagonal bushing that is about 1/2 "
long with a 10-32 threaded stud for mounting?
If so the bushing/heatsink is part of the transistor.
A google search for 2N1038 will show
Am 06.11.2016 um 22:16 schrieb Bryan _:
By far the easiest method.
https://youtu.be/3jxSKaIRhAQ
That must be the guy who removes the e**y MV-89s from China from their
boards.
At least two of mine have scars that are best explained by such a tool.
regards, Gerhard
Yes, further searching reveals that although the 2n1038 is T05, the -2
version is X26 - mounted in a stud by the factory. So it could well be
glued. 2N1038s aren't unobtainable though, so I'll keep it original if I
can. Even though a 7915 would be fine !
I was a bit puzzled by the insulators.
Adrian,
Here's a picture of the package you have, with the TI logo on the "heatsink". I
pulled it just now from an old car stereo. The PNP Germanium GC588 crosses -
not correctly! - to a differently packaged NTE102A which is rated for 1A and
32V with some decent gain. I suspect the GC588 is
Just homemade opto-isolators. Used in choppers, too. The transistor was
indeed bonded to the heatsink. Just replace the whole thing with a
3-legged regulator? or simply a modern PNP t0-220 with a little heat
sink on it.
73, Don
On 2016-11-06 15:15, paul swed wrote:
Don't know what to say on
You could try heating the transistor and bushing then give the to5 a shot
of cold spray or supper duster hoping it will shrink enough to slide out.
On Sunday, 6 November 2016, Adrian Godwin wrote:
> Slightly off-topic, as this is a general repair question. But it's a TIC.
>
On 11/6/16 10:47 AM, Adrian Godwin wrote:
You might also want normal cold tweezers to place the part. I'm not sure
what an orange stick is, around here I'd use a wooden toothpick. Perhaps
that's the same thing !
An orange stick is a piece of wood about 1/4" in diameter which has been
tapered
Don't know what to say on the transistor. It may have been actually made
that way. They did lots of things back then. Yes familiar with the bcd
decoder its used in the 5245 class counters also. I think someone was doing
some funny stuff at lunch time to come up with that. It was the 60's after
If you are in a position where you are worried about damaging the PCB.
(And I would really be worried cutting any part in half with cutters, or
cutting leads off an IC with diagonal cutters.)
For two leaded parts, "Hot tweezers" work fine.
For parts with more leads, like ICs, you need hot air
By far the easiest method.
https://youtu.be/3jxSKaIRhAQ
-=Bryan=-
From: time-nuts on behalf of Scott Stobbe
Sent: November 6, 2016 1:10 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
In the case of the rt7 (or knife soldering tips for other brands) you get a
fine point that easily handles 30-32 awg wire, and the edge of the tip is a
little over 100 thou long, so for parts 0805 and smaller you just lay the
edge along the side of the component and heat both pads and swipe it to
If the SMD is small enough I have found it easy to remove by just applying a
blob of solder to one end, this will quickly gap over to the other lead, and
the SMD component and solder ball just slides off the board. Only works on the
very small components though.
-=Bryan=-
Hi,
I just had a stupid idea: What if, one would modify a rubidium fountain
to launch the atoms not trough two Ramsey cavities, but into an elongated
resonant cavity? Ie pump the Rb atoms as it is done with a normal fountain
and launch them into the cavity, where they can interact with the field
Slightly off-topic, as this is a general repair question. But it's a TIC.
I'm repairing a 5275A timer (all-discreet count logic to 100MHz, neon bulb
display, a most amazing bcd to decimal decoder made from neons and LDRs,
1-2-2-4 decade counters ..) and the current problem is a 2n1038-2 germanium
Ref. the thread about burning tantalum capacitors .. If I were going to
china I'd be looking at the tools. Many might be low quality (but cheaper
than ebay). Others might be excellent. You need to see them to find out.
On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 4:33 PM, Azelio Boriani
It's obvious you've never had a manicure, Adrian.
An orangewood stick is an instrument for torturing the cuticles.
Il faut soufrir pour etre belle!
On Sunday, November 6, 2016, Adrian Godwin wrote:
> You might also want normal cold tweezers to place the part. I'm not
You might also want normal cold tweezers to place the part. I'm not sure
what an orange stick is, around here I'd use a wooden toothpick. Perhaps
that's the same thing !
The Swiss Venus tweezers have a lovely finish and the ends always meet.
There are probably others as good.
If you get some
On 11/6/16 9:24 AM, Scott Stobbe wrote:
I would not recommend purchasing soldering tweezers without trying them
first. They are not easy to control solder application when mounting a
component.
tweezers to remove
single iron to install
use a orange stick to hold the part down while you solder
I agree - I find them totally useless for applying solder. I'd only use
them for removing parts. To solder them, clean the pads as described here
and solder one end at a time.
On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 5:24 PM, Scott Stobbe
wrote:
> I would not recommend purchasing
I would not recommend purchasing soldering tweezers without trying them
first. They are not easy to control solder application when mounting a
component.
I do really like the Weller rt7 knife tip.
On Sunday, 6 November 2016, Adrian Godwin wrote:
> SMD parts aren't going
SMD parts aren't going to go away. It's worth investing in good tools to
deal with them and learning the best way to use them.
I'd put tweezers quite high on that list, and although the metcals are
worthwhile if you can avoid full price, the chinese tweezers are
surprisingly useful at very low
Heating one end and adding a little solder to the joint will allow you to
lift the cap, the leads are folded over tabs so they'll bend nicely and
allow the cap to lift, once you've got one end lifted, heat the other and
it will come away easily.
Clean up the pads with solder wick then you're
Another admittedly low-budget way of heating both ends is to use a heat
spreader. Solder a short piece of braid to one component end, fold it over the
top of the part, and solder it to the other end. Heat the braid in the center,
add solder until both ends are melted, and lift the combination
Maybe I have a clue: on the usual auction site there is a new seller
(since April 2015) from ShenZhen (Guangdong provice) that has a lot of
OCXOs on sale. Not so far (~140km) there is another OCXOs seller
(since 2005) in Guangzhou, the capital of Guangdong province.
On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 4:43
Sorry no clue I suspect you will be the Marco Polo of time-nuttery.
Have fun and remember pennies per pound. You can have a lot of fun at that
cost.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Sun, Nov 6, 2016 at 10:13 AM, Christopher Hoover
wrote:
> I'm in Shanghai now but will be leaving for
I'm in Shanghai now but will be leaving for Shenzhen in a few days. Any
one know of any special time nutty stuff to check out in Shenzhen? I
expect if I can find the right place I might see piles of OCXO's.
Thanks, Christopher and 73 de AI6KG
___
Anton,
Not sure your email suggested a bad lamp. I think it was just the question
on the filter. If there is a lamp issue happy to suggest ways of perhaps
getting it going again that I have used. Maybe best off line since this has
been communicated before.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
On Sun, Nov 6, 2016
Ditto. I use hot tweezers -- metcal talon handpiece, in my case. There
are other ways to do it if you don't have them.
On Nov 6, 2016 3:21 AM, "jimlux" wrote:
> On 11/5/16 12:12 PM, Tom Van Baak wrote:
>
>> See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown
Actually some commercial rubidium clocks do use lasers. Check out the
Microsemi SA.3Xm family.
Nonetheless the point about the wavelength stability requirement is
absolutely the case. There are some papers published about the SA.3X
clocks. I can't post links to them, but a quick web search for "A
Hi Dave,
For power supply voltages, did you check here:
http://www.realhamradio.com/GPS_Frequency_Standard.htm
Scroll down the page a bit to get to the power supply info.
Your problem is very odd. I retired my Z3801A a while back as it was
seeing an occasional error. I should drag it back
Hoi Ruslan,
On Sat, 5 Nov 2016 14:30:18 -0400
Ruslan Nabioullin wrote:
> On 11/03/2016 06:10 PM, Attila Kinali wrote:
> > You don't need a hardware project for this, as long as a paper clock
> > is enough for you. Just buy a couple of kiwi-sdr (or anything similar),
> >
Hoi Rick,
Thanks for the detailed explanation!
On Sat, 5 Nov 2016 08:32:58 -0700
"Richard (Rick) Karlquist" wrote:
> In the 5071, the only place 9192 shows up is in the
> microwave module that is directly attached to the
> coax to waveguide transition into the cavity.
Neither Rb cells nor isolators are difficult to source.They are both catalog
items. However if using a cavity it may need to be tailored to the available
cells.Walk-off isolators using double refraction are somewhat more convenient
than those requiring a strong magnetic field.
Bruce
On
>
> > Just for the heck of it, I'd go laser instead of the old UHF lamp.
> >
> > With respect to precision machining, that space has changed a lot
> > over the last five years, with precision CNC machines, factory
> > or home-built, dropping dramatically in price.
> Yes, the laser technique is
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