at a very minimum all the ones removed in the picture.
Charles
On Mar 9, 2016, at 10:00 PM, Stephen Collins
wrote:
> Which ones should I focus on to replace, or just do them all? Not sure what
> you mean by a/b I assume that's the power supply. Thanks for all
Which ones should I focus on to replace, or just do them all? Not sure what you
mean by a/b I assume that's the power supply. Thanks for all your input!
--
--
-
You received this message because you are a member of the Vintage Macs group.
The list FAQ is at
: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Hardware Mack
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2016 6:32 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Mac Classic boot problem
the classic a/b, some of the time you cant even tell they are leaking until
you remove em
You don't know whether he has a load on the PSU.
On 3/9/2016 5:34 PM, Hardware Mack wrote:
sounds pretty low... on the 12v side.
and 5v side too!
can you meter those with the hd spinning? or does the hd not even
spin up.
Charles
--
--
-
You received this message because you are a
You have to check ripple as well.
On 3/9/2016 5:30 PM, Stephen Collins wrote:
So it's a 4 lead connector into the drive - Red, Brown, Black, Orange.
The Red one reads 4.88V and the Orange one reads 11.72V.
How does that sound?
--
--
-
You received this message because you are a member
So it's a 4 lead connector into the drive - Red, Brown, Black, Orange. The
Red one reads 4.88V and the Orange one reads 11.72V.
How does that sound?
On Wednesday, March 9, 2016 at 4:22:39 PM UTC-6, Notgoing Totellyou wrote:
>
> yep, Get readings for the +5 and +12
>
>
> Sent from the office
yep, Get readings for the +5 and +12
Sent from the office of MacCaps.com
MACCAPS.COM
2 ROETHEL DRIVE
SUITE D
NOVI, MICHIGAN 48375
UNITED STATES
Thanks.
Charles Phillips
248 325 8812
On Mar 9, 2016, at 5:20 PM, Stephen Collins wrote:
> Should I be able to test with a multimeter
Should I be able to test with a multimeter and get 12V on the drive's power
lead?
On Wednesday, March 9, 2016 at 4:19:09 PM UTC-6, Notgoing Totellyou wrote:
>
> my guess is the 12v rail is shot... as that is the first to go because of
> the bad caps on the ab.
> Charles
>
>
>
>
> Sent from the
my guess is the 12v rail is shot... as that is the first to go because of the
bad caps on the ab.
Charles
Sent from the office of MacCaps.com
MACCAPS.COM
2 ROETHEL DRIVE
SUITE D
NOVI, MICHIGAN 48375
UNITED STATES
Thanks.
Charles Phillips
248 325 8812
On Mar 9, 2016, at 5:15 PM,
Well good news and bad news. I successfully replaced all the capacitors and
cleaned the MB thoroughly. Sure enough, it fixed the sound issue.
Bad news is still no internal hard drive. Last week, it would occasionally
recognize on startup. Now it never does. I know the drive is good because
it
I use those caps alot but not that method. There are methods to
removing SMT caps,using 2 soldering irons, using SMT hot air
station, Twist off or Wiggle off. Some swear by hot tweezers, The
majority of the time I remove the bad caps with hot air.
On 68kmla/ThinkClassic we have always
I understand that is the method Charles (Mr. MacCaps himself) uses with
good success...that's how I learned it. I've done several that way with
no problems so far...one or two were at least medium-ugly from the leaks.
On the other hand, I pulled a pad loose on one fighting with it trying to
use
> On Mar 4, 2016, at 10:08 AM, Louis Ciotti wrote:
>
> Grabbing and twisting just seem like the pad will get ripped off, especially
> on a board that is slightly damaged from a leaky cap.
You would think so but the downward pressure really helps to avoid this. I was
Grabbing and twisting just seem like the pad will get ripped off,
especially on a board that is slightly damaged from a leaky cap.
On Fri, Mar 4, 2016 at 1:03 PM, Wesley Furr wrote:
> Sounds good to me...but of course you're working from my play book. :-)
> Removing the caps
Sounds good to me...but of course you're working from my play book. :-)
Removing the caps like that makes me nervous, but I've not yet had a
problem...and it's so much easier and faster. Make sure you keep twisting
and not pulling up after it starts coming loose...if a leg is hanging on,
that
> On Mar 4, 2016, at 9:10 AM, Stephen Collins
> wrote:
>
> I have inspected around the caps, and see no evidence of leakage. Regardless
> I think they are weak, and it's probably a matter of time. Here's the
> procedure I'm going with (via Wesley above).
>
>
I have inspected around the caps, and see no evidence of leakage.
Regardless I think they are weak, and it's probably a matter of time.
Here's the procedure I'm going with (via Wesley above).
Capacitor replacement:
- Grab cap with pliers, push down & twist
- Clean area with isopropyl and
> On Mar 4, 2016, at 8:50 AM, Stephen Collins
> wrote:
>
> Ok will do. Not as nervous about the surface mount repair since I looked at
> Dave Jones' EEVlog video on the topic. Thanks for the help everyone. Fingers
> crossed!
Just be sure to CLEAN ti well. Not
Ok will do. Not as nervous about the surface mount repair since I looked at
Dave Jones' EEVlog video on the topic. Thanks for the help everyone.
Fingers crossed!
On Friday, March 4, 2016 at 10:41:42 AM UTC-6, Dylan McDermond wrote:
>
>
> > On Mar 4, 2016, at 8:02 AM, Stephen Collins
> On Mar 4, 2016, at 8:02 AM, Stephen Collins
> wrote:
> 1) As described above, the internal hard drive is missing most of the time,
> but will occasionally appear on bootup alongside the Floppy EMU drive. 2) No
> sound.
>
> I ask again, does this still sound
Update:
I recently acquired a Floppy EMU from Steve Chamberlain over at
http://www.bigmessowires.com. I connected it in hard drive mode on the
DB-19 port. The machine runs System 6, apps and games flawlessly in this
configuration with two exceptions: 1) As described above, the internal hard
yeah i had a Mac II that was really getting to me once.
I checked all the traces, changed all the caps. installed good working ram
simms.
i didn’t think to pop the rom’s out and back in again, the rom i/c legs were
defiantly tarnished.
and then tried it and it worked fine.
On Mar 3, 2016,
Hi Stephen,
Not having hands-on, there are a number of possibilities and solutions.
Can you boot from a floppy drive? Have any floppy tools? If you can
put your hands on an old FWB tools floppy set or some other floppy
diagnostic set, that would be a big help.
After completing this email,
-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Mac Classic boot problem
Here are part #'s and links to same on mouser.com that I bought for the
couple LC's I re-worked. Not sure which of those are used in the
Classic...be sure ratings and voltages match before ordering. What I would
suggest is going
ductDetail/Kemet/C1206C105K5RACTU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs0A
nBnWHyRQKLP9quIYhdRZscoGk%2f4rK8%3d
Thanks,
Wesley
_
From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Stephen Collins
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2016 5:30 PM
To: Vintage Macs
Subject: Re: Mac Cl
Do you have a link for the capacitor? I'm new to surface mount soldering.
Thanks!
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 2:41:46 PM UTC-6, Wesley wrote:
>
> Here's a post I made elsewhere about my method of doing it:
>
>
>
Here's a post I made elsewhere about my method of doing it:
http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?50961-SE-30-Re-cap=400201=#post400201
If the link doesn't work, let me know and I can just re-post it here.
As noted there, I'm a huge fan of the MLCC capacitors - they seem to be
> On Mar 2, 2016, at 11:34 AM, j...@cimmeri.com wrote:
>
> D, have you ever experimented with using non-SMD replacements? I think
> that's how I'd try to go as I've found SMD can caps to be unreliable and very
> short lived compared to leaded types.
I like originality, so I usually do
On 3/2/2016 2:20 PM, Dylan McDermond wrote:
On Mar 2, 2016, at 11:15 AM, Stephen Collins
wrote:
Can you help me choose the correct replacement caps? I assume Aluminum 47uf,
16V, Surface Mount. What else should I specify? Size? I am looking on
digikey.com.
Here
> On Mar 2, 2016, at 11:15 AM, Stephen Collins
> wrote:
>
> Can you help me choose the correct replacement caps? I assume Aluminum 47uf,
> 16V, Surface Mount. What else should I specify? Size? I am looking on
> digikey.com.
Here is what I’ve used for the Classic
Can you help me choose the correct replacement caps? I assume Aluminum
47uf, 16V, Surface Mount. What else should I specify? Size? I am looking on
digikey.com.
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 12:01:55 PM UTC-6, Dylan McDermond wrote:
>
>
> > On Mar 2, 2016, at 9:56 AM, Stephen Collins
One thing I did to get better with my "standard" soldering equipment on smd
stuff was to order some cheap boards from eBay and then use YouTube videos.
You have to look out as some of the videos are pretty bad, but if you've
soldered much, you can tell who has a decent technique that works and
Hmm, I was afraid that would be the recommendation. I'm comfortable with
soldering through-hole mounted stuff but everything (except cpu) here is
surface mounted. Any links to a guide on this?
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 11:36:17 AM UTC-6, Dylan McDermond wrote:
>
>
> > On Mar 2, 2016, at
> On Mar 2, 2016, at 9:56 AM, Stephen Collins
> wrote:
>
> This is a Classic, so almost everything is surface mounted. I cleaned the
> board with QD Electronic Cleaner just to see, but that did not help.
Correct. Those metal-cased aluminum electrolytic leak all
> On 2 Mar, 2016, at 19:56, Stephen Collins wrote:
>
> This is a Classic, so almost everything is surface mounted. I cleaned the
> board with QD Electronic Cleaner just to see, but that did not help.
Then it’s the capacitors. You’ll need to find someone really
This is a Classic, so almost everything is surface mounted. I cleaned the
board with QD Electronic Cleaner just to see, but that did not help.
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 11:42:16 AM UTC-6, Clark Martin wrote:
>
> Unplug and reseat the connections to the logicboard, especially the RAM.
>
Unplug and reseat the connections to the logicboard, especially the RAM. The
connections build up corrosion over time, replugging them cleans the contacts.
Sent from an iPhone, don't ask whose.
> On Mar 2, 2016, at 9:00 AM, Stephen Collins
> wrote:
>
> Hi
> On Mar 2, 2016, at 9:00 AM, Stephen Collins
> wrote:
>
> I cleaned the internals and system board using a can of compressed air, but
> so far no water or chemicals. What should I do next?
Recap the logic board. If it’s never had the capacitors replaced, it
Hi everyone,
I'm new to the vintage Mac scene and have a Mac Classic here with an
internal Quantum 40MB hard drive and 4MB of memory. When I first got it,
everything booted and ran fine. It came with 6.0.7. Over about a week, I
noticed apps and even the Finder crashing. It got progressively
39 matches
Mail list logo