Dave, That's why I like the NF2 so much. Put a shaft in it and it automatically goes to the NBP. If graphite, usually I rotate the shaft to be sure that it is the weakest NBP, or N1. In each case, I have a deflection number for it. A typical R N1 at a 40" beam length will be about 0.450" on my machine, typical Pure Energy A is about 0.405. (Use 40" beam length for woods and 35" beam length for irons.) So, when I'm doing a set of shafts, I just write down the deflections and sort them softest to firmest. Just by rotating the shaft, I immediately know the difference in thousandths from the N1 to the S1. By sliding the shaft with lowest N1 past the tip stop an inch at a time, I can determine the tip sensitivity in less than 30 seconds and figure my target deflections for the set in less than another 30 seconds. Then, I just put each shaft in the NF2 and slide until I get the target deflection, mark and trim...all automatically on the N1 of that shaft....and within about 1/2 cpm accuracy, Dan tells me, if my deflection readings are within .002 repeatability.
I've been using N1 down the target line (9 o'clock RH) for alignment and it seems to work really well on the sets of woods and irons that I've done...feels good and hits straight...don't need any FLOing, etc. Of course, most graphites are Type 2, so S1 is at 12, and most steel shafts are a Type 1 with S1 opposite the N1. If I want to use an S at 3 o'clock alignment for woods, I mark the spines when I sort the shafts (sometimes record the deflection on the masking tape. I could even sort by spine deflection, if desired...although I have no idea what that would do since I haven't tried it.) Have even tried some shaft profiling up to 10" from the tip and found some distinctive curves that offer me a clue to the feel of the shaft. A soft S-curve feels best to me...a flattening curve feels the "boardiest." There are all kinds of possibilities with this machine. Bernie Writeto: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Tutelman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 9:46 AM Subject: Re: ShopTalk: spining matched clubs? > Pat, > I don't have an answer for you... But I'm not sure there IS an answer until > the following question is answered. > > I assume that the spines are not all the same "size". That is, some may be a > 2cpm difference between the stiff and soft directions, and some a 10cpm > difference. Given that, you can't frequency-match the clubs in all > directions. So which direction is "the" frequency, the one you want to > match? Is it the stiff or the soft? Is it the 12-6 plane or the 3-9 plane? > > I'd be interested in real data, pointers to studies, or at least discussions > of shaft behavior in the swing. I'm not interested in hand-waving. > > Cheers! > DaveT > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Pat McGoldrick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2002 11:18 PM > Subject: ShopTalk: spining matched clubs? > > > I have been frequency matching clubs for some time now and I am now trying > to go one step further. I would like to start building clubs that are > frequency matched, swingweight matched and spined.(Graphite shafts) What is > the best way to go about this? Finding the spine first then sorting them, or > sort them first- match them to the heads dry fit and then find the spine? I > tried the later and found that the slope would be off. I use the club scout > III as my means of testing frequency. Is there a step by step procedure that > should be followed? TIA > Pat McGoldrick On Target Golf > > > >
