Thanks guys for your suggestions and Tom W for info on the Lynx clubs. Geez, Roy, why didn’t I think of that. I still have a couple of dad’s old Spalding irons with pins in them over in the corner of my shop. I imagine that I wouldn’t even have to drill them out...the hosel bore at the top of the hosel must be over .400 and tapers down to .370. I put one head in my boring vise and a .375 drill cleaned the hosel out nicely toward the bottom, but I had to Dremel a bit of old epoxy out in the top half inch or so with a cutting bit I use for cleaning out stubborn pieces. A pin through the hosel and shaft just under (maybe 1/4”) under the widest part of the shaft (which is right at the top of the hosel) plus epoxy ought to do the job don’t you think? Would a finishing nail work for the pin?
Bernie bl...@charter.net From: Roy Nix - AGCP Director Sent: Friday, October 29, 2010 3:35 PM To: ShopTalk@mail.msen.com Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Lynx irons Tom I guess I'm showing my age here, but can't he drill through the hosel with the shaft in and pin it like back in the day? Roy On 10/29/2010 10:06 AM, Tom Wishon wrote: BERNIE If you are talking about a Lynx model from the 90s which had a very different type of shaft tip design that was very radically tapered, I remember this model from the days when I was with Golfsmith and the company bought Lynx. In short, GS’s repair department inherited a nightmare of warranty repair jobs for this design because these shafts simply did not stay put in the heads. I recall that GS’s head repair technician, Bill Totten, did figure out a way to keep these shafts in those heads and since it has been so long, I simply don’t remember what he did. So I would recommend you try to contact Bill Totten and ask him for help on this – probably through Jeff Sheets’ consulting company because Totten works for Jeff now since GS eliminated their in-house product development group a number of years ago. TOM From: owner-shopt...@mail.msen.com [mailto:owner-shopt...@mail.msen.com] On Behalf Of Tom Flanagan Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2010 5:15 PM To: shoptalk Subject: RE: ShopTalk: Lynx irons As I recall , the hosel insertion depth on those dogs was pretty shallow as well. I have a neighbor who played Lynx up until a year ago. I reshafted a couple of them, and re-epoxied at least one of them. I used JB Weld for the reglue. For the reshafts I just shimmed them with scraped and roughed aluminum soda cans and JB Weld. They held together long enough for him to get a different set of irons. TFlan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: bl...@charter.net To: shoptalk@mail.msen.com Subject: ShopTalk: Lynx irons Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 16:54:57 -0400 An old guy (who else) has some Lynx irons which keep losing their heads and he asked me if there was any way of keeping them on over a long period of time. I pulled the 6-iron to see what the problem could be and immediately saw the steel shaft was unique...actually stepped up 2 steps from a .370 to the hosel top, then a steep taper to a .370 tip. It’s pretty obvious that the heads could slide off these shafts more easily than on a parallel tip shaft. Is anyone familiar with this problem? Is there any solution that works...like an adapter for this hosel design which could accommodate a parallel tip .370 shaft? I told him that I didn’t think it was worth doing, but I’d ask if anyone had any answers for this problem. Also, he lost the 7-iron head in a water hazard...if anyone has a Lynx 7-iron head and shaft let me know. Bernie Baymiller -- Shoptalk ** Sponsored by the new Aldila Voodoo. Learn more at http://aldilavoodoo.com/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.864 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3222 - Release Date: 10/27/10 02:34:00
