Bernie The worst part is when I do remember something by the time I'm ready to use it I can't remember what I remembered that I wanted to use. - LOL
Good luck with the clubs
Roy
----- Original Message -----
From: Bernie Baymiller
To: ShopTalk@mail.msen.com
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2010 11:48 PM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Lynx irons
Roy,
Ha! Actually, too old. Anymore, I only remember things that I wouldn’t need
to know anyway.
Thanks for the info. I don’t think the pins in a couple of dad’s irons are
down that far. He was a great 2-iron player...hit it acurately over 225 yards
in his 60s, even about 200 when he was my age (76). That’s the club head I do
remember is pinned. Those old Bobby Jones Tournament Model irons (made about
1939, I think) were very much like today’s heads, forged stainless steel with a
sole as wide as most of today’s blades, but with higher lofts and slightly
larger faces on the mid and short irons. I could lay open the 9-iron and play
it like a PW or SW. He left the dies open some when he made his set and the set
I grew up hitting.
Bernie
bl...@charter.net
From: Roy Nix - AGCP Director
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2010 9:14 PM
To: ShopTalk@mail.msen.com
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Lynx irons
Bernie
You too young to think of it? - lol
It's been too long for me to remember details so I did some research for you.
I found the information in Maltby's Blue book. 4th edition Pages 248 to 250.
Drill with a 1/8th or 3/32 drill bit. Leave the pin a little long on both
sides, lay it on the anvil of the vise and tap down with a ball peen hammer,
file and sand smooth. Hosels were longer back then but the pictures show it at
least an inch down from the top of the hosel. I would think between the epoxy
and a pin that sucker is in there to stay for a while.
Roy
----- Original Message -----
From: Bernie Baymiller
To: ShopTalk@mail.msen.com
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2010 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Lynx irons
Thanks guys for your suggestions and Tom W for info on the Lynx clubs.
Geez, Roy, why didn’t I think of that. I still have a couple of dad’s old
Spalding irons with pins in them over in the corner of my shop. I imagine that
I wouldn’t even have to drill them out...the hosel bore at the top of the hosel
must be over .400 and tapers down to .370. I put one head in my boring vise and
a .375 drill cleaned the hosel out nicely toward the bottom, but I had to
Dremel a bit of old epoxy out in the top half inch or so with a cutting bit I
use for cleaning out stubborn pieces. A pin through the hosel and shaft just
under (maybe 1/4”) under the widest part of the shaft (which is right at the
top of the hosel) plus epoxy ought to do the job don’t you think? Would a
finishing nail work for the pin?
Bernie
bl...@charter.net
From: Roy Nix - AGCP Director
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2010 3:35 PM
To: ShopTalk@mail.msen.com
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Lynx irons
Tom
I guess I'm showing my age here, but can't he drill through the hosel with
the shaft in and pin it like back in the day?
Roy
On 10/29/2010 10:06 AM, Tom Wishon wrote:
BERNIE
If you are talking about a Lynx model from the 90s which had a very
different type of shaft tip design that was very radically tapered, I remember
this model from the days when I was with Golfsmith and the company bought Lynx.
In short, GS’s repair department inherited a nightmare of warranty repair jobs
for this design because these shafts simply did not stay put in the heads.
I recall that GS’s head repair technician, Bill Totten, did figure out a
way to keep these shafts in those heads and since it has been so long, I simply
don’t remember what he did. So I would recommend you try to contact Bill
Totten and ask him for help on this – probably through Jeff Sheets’ consulting
company because Totten works for Jeff now since GS eliminated their in-house
product development group a number of years ago.
TOM
From: owner-shopt...@mail.msen.com [mailto:owner-shopt...@mail.msen.com]
On Behalf Of Tom Flanagan
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2010 5:15 PM
To: shoptalk
Subject: RE: ShopTalk: Lynx irons
As I recall , the hosel insertion depth on those dogs was pretty shallow
as well. I have a neighbor who played Lynx up until a year ago. I reshafted a
couple of them, and re-epoxied at least one of them. I used JB Weld for the
reglue. For the reshafts I just shimmed them with scraped and roughed aluminum
soda cans and JB Weld. They held together long enough for him to get a
different set of irons.
TFlan
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: bl...@charter.net
To: shoptalk@mail.msen.com
Subject: ShopTalk: Lynx irons
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2010 16:54:57 -0400
An old guy (who else) has some Lynx irons which keep losing their heads
and he asked me if there was any way of keeping them on over a long period of
time. I pulled the 6-iron to see what the problem could be and immediately saw
the steel shaft was unique...actually stepped up 2 steps from a .370 to the
hosel top, then a steep taper to a .370 tip. It’s pretty obvious that the heads
could slide off these shafts more easily than on a parallel tip shaft.
Is anyone familiar with this problem? Is there any solution that
works...like an adapter for this hosel design which could accommodate a
parallel tip .370 shaft? I told him that I didn’t think it was worth doing, but
I’d ask if anyone had any answers for this problem. Also, he lost the 7-iron
head in a water hazard...if anyone has a Lynx 7-iron head and shaft let me know.
Bernie Baymiller
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