Vince says the 777 doesn't need a stir device because the pole swap does the stirring.
He might not be entirely right. There are problems.

Pole swap without stirring sets up standing high concentration fields in the water that pulse out particles from the very start.
With proper controls that could be useful, but, particles aren't conductive and quantites produced are reliant on many other factors that can't be easily controlled... making a conductivity based 'auto off' really really tricky and meter correlations of conductivity to PPM pretty much useless because any little thing will drastically change the ion to particle ratios.

Pole swap frequency changes also change the type of deposits.
Too slow and you get both electrodes going black.
Too fast and they both grow a heavy white semi-insulating fuzz.

Without stirring, tracks form in the water as particles and ions sink off the electrodes and head towards their polar opposites. If the track hits the container, they stick.
Counting on polarity reversals to do stirring is an iffy setup. It's a weak force to start with and doesn't move water very well.
What little stirring it does is a back and forth motion.

Using a stir device will make things more repeatable.
Thermal updraft with chimney works pretty well.
Magnetic "slow" lab type stirrer works great.

But, it does upset the standing fields which can have some useful applications 'if' they are controlled.
Just 'how and what' to get 'where', I have yet to figure out.
All batches tried look fine but no two are the same. [Some not even close]

Using stirring with pole swap, I at least get a fair amount of consistancy.

Ode

At 08:31 PM 5/9/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>>>>
The tarnish was on the silver rods and ran down the jar near where the rods ended. When I moved the rods it came off of them. I did strain the batch and it was a film of black dots on the bottom of the filter. The CS came out a soft yellowy clear color.
----- Original Message -----
From: <mailto:odecoy...@alltel.net>Ode Coyote
To: <mailto:silver-list@eskimo.com>silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Monday, May 09, 2005 3:38 AM
Subject: Re: CS>


Black tarnish where?

Ode

At 07:07 AM 5/7/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>>>>
this is a brand new machine. and My first batch. Does anyone know about the black tarnish?
I did clean the jar with dish soap but I really rinsed in well. I flushed it because I was concerned about using soap. could this be a factor?
----- Original Message -----
From: <mailto:odecoy...@alltel.net>Ode Coyote
To: <mailto:silver-list@eskimo.com>silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 2:59 AM
Subject: Re: CS>

Heavy deposits on the electrodes can defeat conductivity sensing auto off circuits by semi-insulating the electrodes. At some point, they just get heavier and heavier and make a mess.

Don't worry about light. If you haven't used salt or baking soda, you can run a generator in direct sun and store CS on a sunny windowsill.
Silver in 'only' distilled water is not photo-reactive.
If you find that it is, there was something else in the water.
Ode

At 05:16 PM 5/6/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>>>>
Thanks it's been 26 hours and the light is still on. Should I through it out? I just took a peak and the silver rods are tarnished with black (like silver tarnish) and when I shook them it feel of and was making it's way to the bottom. Also there are two tarnish lines run down the jar. From the bottom of the rod to the bottom.
any thoughts, please
worried cook
----- Original Message -----
From: <mailto:ke...@shaw.ca>kent
To: <mailto:silver-list@eskimo.com>silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2005 3:42 PM
Subject: **SPAM: RE: CS>first batch



I have a colloid master as well. My usual setting is 6 to 6.5. The PPM tester is anywhere between 14 to 20. Which I understand correctly from the list is doubled to come up with the correct the PPM. It should be clear/slightly yellow at the end of the brewing cycle. It can take a bit of time. I do not let mine sit for 36 hours before I use it. I also do not filter it. Not sure if this causes any problems but I haven't turned gray yet

Kent



-----Original Message-----
From: SCD Traveler [mailto:s...@cox.net]
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2005 7:23 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: CS>first batch




Well I started my first batch yesterday at 4 PM. It's now 7 AM and it's not done. I have a colloid master and when I did the test for water purity it was just fine (Arrowhead distilled) So I'm not sure what to do now. I'm concerned. I did want a higher PPM so it's set on 6. I'm concerned about the keep in the dark thing." Why would that make a difference. Can I lift the box and look at it or would that ruin the batch and what about taking the box off to remove the silver and let set for 36 hours. It's seems more difficult that I thought it would be because of the darkness thing. I seen a post here about fuzz does' that stop the process and what about lifting the box to see if I have fuzz.


thanks for any input


worried cook





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