Worse than a carcinogen is that Imron is additive and will destroy your
liver. It never purges from your system. I have heard about guys that
died after spraying IMRON too many times without a respirator..
Always spray with at least a basic volatile orgranic filter respirator
or a pump. I happen to have both.. The pump style of respirator is also
excellent for 2 part systems...
I agree about Krylon being too soft... white nearly turns black by the
end of a couple of flying sessions and can't be cleaned off.
George Voss wrote:
Frankly, I hate Krylon. It scratches easily and isn't very durable in my
opinion.
For the best paint, use Imron. The problem with it of course is that it's a
carcinogen. It's VERY bad stuff. Next on the list would be the old K&B if
you can find some.
Klass Kote is the best paint currently available. It's expensive and you'll
need at least an airbrush, but a small spray gun is better.
As for surface prep, I sand or scrape the joint line and wet sand the entire
nose cone with 600 or 1000 grit sandpaper wet. Use 3M fine line masking
tape. It's a type of plastic and it stretches around corners fairly well.
If you are shooting over white and you are using a dark canopy color, you
can shoot a dust coat, wait 15 minutes, shoot a flow coat and remove the
tape while the paint is still wet. If not, use white primer over the canopy
area and then shoot the color.
Let the painted nose cone sit in a heated area for 3-4 days untouched. Sand
the edges of the canopy so they blend in with the nose cone. I put 3M
pinstripe tape around the paint line and then clear coat the entire nose
cone.
I've got some photos of a finished nose cone if you want to see one.
If you want a rattle can finish, use Rustoleum. Be aware that you will need
to allow the paint to dry in a heated area for at least 3 days before
handling or you will get fingerprints. Other than that, use the same method
as above except heat the spray can with hot tap water prior to spraying. It
will keep the paint from shooting blobs out of the nozzle. Also, if maximum
finish points are desired, use a new can of paint. Sometimes old, used cans
will shoot blobs out, even when heated.
gv
-----Original Message-----
From: Ben Wilson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 7:33 AM
To: RCSE
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Durable Paint?
Take a look at Phil Barnes' post on "Mantis Fuselage Finishing" here:
http://forums.flyesl.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=44
Photos and such as well...
Sheldon-YNT uDesign wrote:
I'm just finishing my new Soprano (finally) and would like some advice
on what "brand" paint I can use to spray on as a "canopy" on the
nosecone...Something that is reasonably durable, that won't mark-up
too easily or readily scuff off. Anyone have any tips on either the
paint to be used and surface prep? T'would be appreciated...
TIA,
Sheldon~YNT
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Jeff Steifel
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