I could be WAY off base here and I know you said "diesel" fire but then went on to say that it was for a 200L batch so that brings it out of the sphere of petro "diesel" and into the arena of vegetable oil - biodiesel. I did a quick Google and came up with this: Fire codes:http://www.firepros.4t.com/photo3.html and an example of a class K fire wet chemical extinguisher suitable for vegetable oil fires. http://www.officezone.com/badger_k.htm
Does that answer the question ? Maybe ? Luc --- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, "Arlos " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Adam, > > Do a search for MSDS (Material Safety and Data Sheet) This will list the > flash point vapor pressure, and recommended fire suppression media. In > the case of one MSDS, it was noted that foam (AFFF), dry chemical and > CO2 were recommended. > As a former fire fighter, you have to have enough fire suppression > material on hand but the best advice, is get out and call 911 because no > amount of material wealth is worth losing your life over fighting a > fire. If you store your finish product in a steel drum, that needs to > have a bonded ground connection. Static protection is a good idea anyway > with working around the storage or making of bio-diesel. If your 200 L > is stored with a fire resistant lid (hopefully) then the next problem is > storage in an area where there is a source of combustion (other > flammables, ignition source point such as hot work equipment like > welding, drill motors, grinding equipment. Have a fire resistant oily > rag can with a spring lid. > Answering exactly how much fire fighting media is need depends on > several points. Did a fire occur when the 200 L has spilled and has > involved other types of combustibles as in a wooded floor, out door near > dry grass or brush, curtains, furnishing, paper. Is the weather a factor > such as wind, humidity and temp. Is your fire contained within a drum > only? Is it in an enclosed area, open area outdoor, under an overhang, > under a tree? In the best case, you can extinguish a self contained > fire by placing a lid on the container. Gas and petroleum fires are > fought by containing the source and laying on a blanket of oxygen > reducing foam Small multi class fire extinguishers have a limited amount > of material and should be checked annually as some dry chemicals will > cake during long storage they are not a good choice outdoors as the > wrong use can actually spread flames.One of the first things a fire > fighter learns is the term, "Put the wet stuff on the red stuff.". Water > is the number one choice for firefighting because it's cheap, available > and easy to transport. Water may or may not be a good choice because it > can actually help to spread flames. Water is used to cool a fire below > the flash point. Remember only a gas burns, not a liquid or a solid. > Only when a material is heated will it release a gas that actually > burns, not the material. This is the same for fluids. A garden hose will > deliver between 3-7 gallons per minute which is just enough to push a > good fire around, not put it out, Foams are mixed with water because > they will blanket the fuel and cool the flash point. There are several > commercial systems like Ansel available if you store fuel in a secure > area. The most serious consideration in a bio-diesel fire are the by- > products of combustion. This has to be considered. In an enclosed area > the rapid lack of available breathable air is the single biggest factor > in your survival during a fire. People generally succumb to respiration > issues due to toxic substances. > The best thing to do is have a plan, including the layout of your > storage area, utility shut offs, evacuation route, first aid kit. Your > fire may happen in the middle of the night and the fire dept needs to > know where you've stored it if it is in a building. You won't be doing > your best thinking at 3AM so be prepared. Also have a spill kit to > contain and absorb any spills to aid in preventing a larger fire > potential. Run through a fire drill several times and make sure others > beside you know exactly what you're up to out in the garage at night > brewing bio-diesel. The 5 P's save lives-Proper Planning Prevents Poor > Performance.. Ok so this sounds like preaching but if you've ever seen > someone terribly burned in a fire, you'd understand.. One last thing.. > don't be a dead hero, call the fire dept in the event of a fire.. If > fact pre-empt them and call and ask the same question, How do I fight a > bio-diesel fire. They are not there to shut down your operation but > would be helpful in setting up a safety program for you. > > Arlos > > -----Original Message----- > From: Hunt, Adam [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Friday, June 04, 2004 2:11 AM > To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [biofuel] Diesel fire suppression > > What is the recommended fire suppressant for diesel fires? I am > thinking about what type of safety system would be used around a >200L > batch processor. > > --adam > > > > Biofuel at Journey to Forever: > http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html > > Biofuels list archives: > http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/ > > Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. > To unsubscribe, send an email to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor > > > ADVERTISEMENT > > <http://rd.yahoo.com/SIG=1295t87b8/M=298184.5022502.6152625.3001176/D =gr > oups/S=1705083269:HM/EXP=1086428007/A=2164331/R=0/SIG=11eaelai9/*http :/w > ww.netflix.com/Default?mqso=60183351> click here > > > <http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l? M=298184.5022502.6152625.3001176/D=group > s/S=:HM/A=2164331/rand=248501676> > > _____ > > Yahoo! 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