>Thank you very much for your response Arlos. I'm new to the biofuel >"scene" and I find it quite disturbing that fire suppression and >avoidance isn't more talked about.
Fire risk is a major reason for the emphasis on closed processors, also on TEFC pumps and stirrer motors. See: Hazards http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_processor.html#haz Best Keith >Again I really appreciate your response. I didn't figure that I >would get more then a few lines from a couple of different people on >this subject. > >--adam > >-----Original Message----- >From: Arlos [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] >Sent: Friday, June 04, 2004 7:21 AM >To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com >Subject: RE: [biofuel] Diesel fire suppression > > >Adam, > >Do a search for MSDS (Material Safety and Data Sheet) This will list the >flash point vapor pressure, and recommended fire suppression media. In >the case of one MSDS, it was noted that foam (AFFF), dry chemical and >CO2 were recommended. > As a former fire fighter, you have to have enough fire suppression >material on hand but the best advice, is get out and call 911 because no >amount of material wealth is worth losing your life over fighting a >fire. If you store your finish product in a steel drum, that needs to >have a bonded ground connection. Static protection is a good idea anyway >with working around the storage or making of bio-diesel. If your 200 L >is stored with a fire resistant lid (hopefully) then the next problem is >storage in an area where there is a source of combustion (other >flammables, ignition source point such as hot work equipment like >welding, drill motors, grinding equipment. Have a fire resistant oily >rag can with a spring lid. > Answering exactly how much fire fighting media is need depends on >several points. Did a fire occur when the 200 L has spilled and has >involved other types of combustibles as in a wooded floor, out door near >dry grass or brush, curtains, furnishing, paper. Is the weather a factor >such as wind, humidity and temp. Is your fire contained within a drum >only? Is it in an enclosed area, open area outdoor, under an overhang, >under a tree? In the best case, you can extinguish a self contained >fire by placing a lid on the container. Gas and petroleum fires are >fought by containing the source and laying on a blanket of oxygen >reducing foam Small multi class fire extinguishers have a limited amount >of material and should be checked annually as some dry chemicals will >cake during long storage they are not a good choice outdoors as the >wrong use can actually spread flames.One of the first things a fire >fighter learns is the term, "Put the wet stuff on the red stuff.". Water >is the number one choice for firefighting because it's cheap, available >and easy to transport. Water may or may not be a good choice because it >can actually help to spread flames. Water is used to cool a fire below >the flash point. Remember only a gas burns, not a liquid or a solid. >Only when a material is heated will it release a gas that actually >burns, not the material. This is the same for fluids. A garden hose will >deliver between 3-7 gallons per minute which is just enough to push a >good fire around, not put it out, Foams are mixed with water because >they will blanket the fuel and cool the flash point. There are several >commercial systems like Ansel available if you store fuel in a secure >area. The most serious consideration in a bio-diesel fire are the by- >products of combustion. This has to be considered. In an enclosed area >the rapid lack of available breathable air is the single biggest factor >in your survival during a fire. People generally succumb to respiration >issues due to toxic substances. > The best thing to do is have a plan, including the layout of your >storage area, utility shut offs, evacuation route, first aid kit. Your >fire may happen in the middle of the night and the fire dept needs to >know where you've stored it if it is in a building. You won't be doing >your best thinking at 3AM so be prepared. Also have a spill kit to >contain and absorb any spills to aid in preventing a larger fire >potential. Run through a fire drill several times and make sure others >beside you know exactly what you're up to out in the garage at night >brewing bio-diesel. The 5 P's save lives-Proper Planning Prevents Poor >Performance.. Ok so this sounds like preaching but if you've ever seen >someone terribly burned in a fire, you'd understand.. One last thing.. >don't be a dead hero, call the fire dept in the event of a fire.. If >fact pre-empt them and call and ask the same question, How do I fight a >bio-diesel fire. They are not there to shut down your operation but >would be helpful in setting up a safety program for you. > >Arlos > >-----Original Message----- >From: Hunt, Adam [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] >Sent: Friday, June 04, 2004 2:11 AM >To: biofuel@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [biofuel] Diesel fire suppression > >What is the recommended fire suppressant for diesel fires? I am >thinking about what type of safety system would be used around a >200L >batch processor. > >--adam ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~--> Make a clean sweep of pop-up ads. Yahoo! Companion Toolbar. Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free! http://us.click.yahoo.com/L5YrjA/eSIIAA/yQLSAA/FGYolB/TM --------------------------------------------------------------------~-> Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuels list archives: http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/ Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. To unsubscribe, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biofuel/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
