I know hobbyists that eliminate the hassles of heat
sterilization of media using hydrogen peroxide.
Works very well.
Some info here
http://www.mycomasters.com/
http://www.mycomasters.com/Slideshow.html
http://ecosyn.us/ecocity/Links/My_Links_Pages/easy_mushrooms_01.html
http://www.wildmushrooms.org/frames/oms_peroxide.htm
Kirk
--- Peggy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello composting and soil enhancing enthusiasts,
>
> Impregnating the compost mix with mycelia can
> potentiate excellent
> beneficial breakdowns of the substrate and release
> additional nutrients
> for the seed as was recently discussed in the
> mushroom emails on this
> forum. New experimentation and documented results
> continue to build a
> reference library within Paul Stament's student's
> applications and
> commercial activities. He also sells mushroom
> "kits". (And you can
> make your own "kits" for 5 cents on the dollar is
> you have a way/ or
> build a way to steam the substrate.) Different
> varieties of mushrooms
> grow better in various parts of the world, so the
> ideal mushroom for
> your area may be different than in other areas.
> Hopefully many of you
> will consider microbial/ mycological enhancements to
> your compost. You
> can take spore samples off of any fruited cap and
> then by inoculating a
> small substrate, grow a good base to spread within a
> composted mass.
> Then that mixture can and will provide an even more
> enhanced soil than
> your basic composted material. Luckily, we have a
> nearby mushroom farm
> that sells its compost. You might also look for
> this kind of "waste" to
> bring into your mix if you can locate a mushroom
> farm in your area.
>
> Best wishes,
> Peggy
>
> Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Compost with sawdust and LOF.
>
> Hello Peter,
>
> I will be following your efforts closely, as I'm
> sure others will. I
> have
> contracted with a small town here in Minnesota to
> build, and install,
> some
> rotating barrel composters (5) in their city
> garden/compost area in late
> March of this year. In this area, we have no
> shortage of materials for
> composting, but I am always interested in learning
> of new processes as
> they
> relate to composting.
>
> Having never composted wood or sawdust myself, I'm
> afraid I am lacking
> in
> actual hands on experience with these particular
> materials. However, I
> do
> have experience composting, and will help you with
> as much as I can.
> You
> will need to incorporate some sort of media/fibrous
> material to fight
> compaction. Since I understand your area to be
> "concrete infested",
> some
> ideas that come to mind are; newspaper shreds
> (black and white
> newsprint:
> hand shredded not too small, then loosely crumpled),
> perhaps non-colored
> cardboard (again hand torn approx. 2" x 6" lengths
> and then loosely
> crumpled), if you can get some hay, or straw, either
> would be okay.
>
> It's clear, from reading your post, that you
> understand what's required.
> Now it's simply a matter of time and effort.
> Anyway, I'm looking
> forward to
> reading about your efforts, and good luck in your
> endeavors.
>
> AntiFossil
> Mike Krafka
> Minnesota USA
>
> > Hi Kim ;
> >
> > LOF is Liquid Organic Fertilizer or what Keith
> calls
> > Household Compost Activator, in other words,
> urine.
> >
> > Yes I guess I could put in some grass or leaves,
> which
> > is what most recipies call for. But two problems
> with
> > that. One is I live in a concrete village.
> There is
> > no grass or trees anywhere. That is no
> exageration.
> > I don't have a front yard or back yard. Just
> concrete
> > everywhere. Nobody around here ever has grass to
> cut,
> > so I can't just pick up someone elses cuttings
> either.
> > In order to get some grass I would need to get in
> my
> > truck, drive a kilometers, stop on some else'e
> > property and start cutting away. Lot's of free
> > sawdust fines though.
> >
> > Secondly, for my project in the near future, I
> will
> > have LOT's of wood after the hammer mill but not
> so
> > much greens. This is more a learning excersize.
> >
> > So I'm just investigating the possiblities of no
> > grass, ONLY sawdust and LOF. The wood is carbon,
> and
> > the LOF is the nitrogen, and it should be possible
> if
> > I can keep it aerated. Is it? What ratio?
> >
> > Truthfully, there are also a few small table
> scraps,
> > but very little. I live with my daughter and
> there is
> > normally only a watermelon or orange peel per day.
> > Let's ignore that for the time being.
> >
> > If this doesn't work, I will go grass cutting, but
> > please humor me first. It should be possible with
> > just sawdust and LOF. Is it? What ratio? How
> much
> > time? Is strong ammonia smell normal? Is very
> little
> > heat normal (I think not)?
> >
> > Once I get a formula and procedure that looks
> correct,
> > I will do a 55 gallon drum. Already got the
> drum.
> >
> > Best Regards,
> >
> > Peter G.
> > Thailand
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Kim & Garth Travis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > > While I am not sure what LOF is, I have used the
> > > very fine sawdust that I
> > > get from my table saw in my compost. Mine is
> used
> > > in our toilet buckets
> > > first, but it must be mixed with something that
> has
> > > a little more fiber or
> > > it compacts. Compaction in a compost pile means
> no
> > > oxygen, which is a
> > > problem. Mix some grass, well mulched into the
> mix
> > > and it should work better.
> > > Bright Blessings,
> > > Kim
> > >
> > > At 06:06 AM 1/2/2005, you wrote:
> > > >Hi Keith ;
> > > >
> > > >Since I plan on making lots of compost from
> wood, I
> > > >thought I would start experimenting with the
> > > abundant
> > > >and free sawdust from next door.
> > > >
> > > >I read the pages on JtF, but none comes close
> to my
> > > >situation. The sawdust is REALLY fine, like
> > > blowing
> > > >sand. I will use a fly screen to keep it from
> > > coming
> > > >out the container holes. It should compost
> quickly
> > > >because particle size is so small, if I can
> keep it
> > > >aerated.
>
=== message truncated ===
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