I usually nibble away at the center of the part until it is two separate
pieces. Then unsolder each piece. Clean the pads off with wick then install
the new part.
Use a good sharp pair of flush cut side cutters.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Camp" <kb...@n1k.org>
To: "Tom Van Baak" <t...@leapsecond.com>; "Discussion of precise time and
frequency measurement" <time-nuts@febo.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2016 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] I love the smell of tantalum in the morning
Hi
A *lot* depends on how many planes there are in that board. The weight of
he copper
also maters a bit. If there is enough thermal mass, you will need a
pre-heat process.
There are lots of ways to do it ranging from the kitchen oven to various
“frame and
lightbulb” setups and on into ever more complex heating approaches.
If the hot tweezers / soldering iron / hot air tool does not reflow the
solder quickly (10 seconds
or less) stop. Get a pre-heat setup and try again. With proper heat you
should have the part
off in under 4 seconds. People don’t tend to use stopwatches when
soldering. 4 seconds is quite
a while on a joint. Ten seconds is pretty much forever ….
Bob
On Nov 5, 2016, at 3:12 PM, Tom Van Baak <t...@leapsecond.com> wrote:
See C13 in the attached photo. I need to replace some blown caps on a few
boards [1]. In one instance the cap got so hot it melted itself off the
board. Quiet convenient, actually -- it acts like its own fuse -- but I
don't think the 5071 designers had that clever feature in mind.
Having not done SMT before, how should I do it with minimal risk to the
very precious PCB. Or, what equipment should I use this as a good excuse
to buy?
Thanks,
/tvb
[0] http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0078788/quotes
[1] http://leapsecond.com/museum/hp5071a/A1-mother.htm
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