VACList-Digest Thursday, March 14, 2002 Issue 240
Today's Topics:
1. Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
2. Re: The Never Ending Saga - Metal water tank
3. Re: Sheetmetal info
4. Goodyear Marathon tires
5. Re: Goodyear Marathon tires
6. Re: Hitch Height?
7. Re: Hitch Height?
8. Re: Hitch Height?
9. Re: The Never Ending Saga
10. Re: Hitch Height?
11. electrical
12. Airstream Sauna
13. Re: electrical
14. Re: Plumbing
15. Re: Hitch Height?
16. Re: Hitch Height?
17. Re: Hitch Height?
18. Re: Hitch Height?
19. Re: Hitch Height?
20. Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 22:36:12 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Chris. Every hammered in rivet you use, will fail, if you tow the trailer.
> They are not intended to be used on things that "must" stay together AND not
> leak water. Andy
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> , replacing the window with a later style small or
> medium curved window, that opens, sealing as necessary and plasticoating the
> new exterior material, and painting, best possible, the new interior metal.
> Also as much as possible, buck riveting is used, instead of Olympic rivets.
> Andy
> ----------------------------
whaa? ? I thought a bucked rivet was a hammered rivet ...Guess I got the terms
wrong . Lots to this airplane talk .
So they have to be installed with a pneumatic gun , rather that a punch and a
hammer - against a bucking block ( if I have that termed right ) ?
For any of you who would like to read up on this aluminium tech stuff , I saw
a book called Standard Aircraft Handbook at Borders bookstore today , ( I didnt
buy it , I poweread it in the aisle and will look in the library , 24.95 is a
lot of clecos ! ) which was the best and only book I`ve found so far around here
about this subject . If anyone knows of any better books ,let me know . There
must be a way for me to learn this ( I`m too old for the service ! any one have
any manuals from Uncle Sam ?? )
Chris 4 days no smoking
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 21:34:41 -0600
From: H Spies <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: The Never Ending Saga - Metal water tank
> Thanks for the URL, H, nice site. That was a bold move replacing the
> entire floor, now I'm scared. The pictures of your old, rotten floor
> look much better than mine, though I'm going to try and make the repair
> using penetrating epoxy and hope that it works. How did you get the new
> floor bolted to the U channel and frame members without taking off the
> belly pan? Did you just glue & screw the new wood into the frame? And if
> so, wouldn't that weaken the structure? Not trying to second guess your
> repair, it looks great, just trying to understand how this would work.
>
My wood was softer than it looks in the pics. I started out just trying
to patch a small section and it got bigger and bigger. So I decided to
remove it back to a frame rib and put in a two piece floor.
I cheated on rebolting the new wood to the u channel frame by cutting a
couple of access holes in the belly skin to gain access to the bottom
side of the bolt. Note I had the interior skins off and thus could get
to the top side of the u channel frame.
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 20:00:16 -0800
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Sheetmetal info
Check out:
http://www.lindsaybks.com./bks3/airc/index.html
http://www.tinmantech.com/index.html
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 22:36:12 -0500
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC] Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
> whaa? ? I thought a bucked rivet was a hammered rivet ...Guess I got the terms
> wrong . Lots to this airplane talk .
> So they have to be installed with a pneumatic gun , rather that a punch and a
> hammer - against a bucking block ( if I have that termed right ) ?
> For any of you who would like to read up on this aluminium tech stuff , I saw
> a book called Standard Aircraft Handbook at Borders bookstore today , ( I
> didnt
> buy it , I poweread it in the aisle and will look in the library , 24.95 is a
> lot of clecos ! ) which was the best and only book I`ve found so far around
> here
> about this subject . If anyone knows of any better books ,let me know . There
> must be a way for me to learn this ( I`m too old for the service ! any one
> have
> any manuals from Uncle Sam ?? )
> Chris 4 days no smoking
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 23:18:30 -0500
From: Jim Stewart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Goodyear Marathon tires
Has anyone had experience with the smaller Goodyear marathons? I just
had a 13" Marathon blow up on my Bambi. The tire was 49 months old,
always covered between trips and probably had less than 15,000 miles.
The tire presure was always topped off at 50psi prior to a trip and
speeds were kept below 65mph.
Is there a better 13" tire out there?
Jim
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 21:17:11 -0800
From: Patrick Ewing <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Goodyear Marathon tires
Jim,
Years ago my Bambi was converted over to 14 inch and radials. Have had no
troubles in seven years hard use with TOYO Z-800 Ultra tires. High speeds,
.......... summer desert heat on the interstate, ................ rough
mountain roads, .......... etc. There's a fair amount of load rating
difference between 13" and 14" tires.
One needs to be very careful of the offset of the rims & the clearance in
the wheel wells. On many different Airstream a lot of times one side will
have more clearance than the other. My suggestion is to take your Bambi to
a good tire store and "play with it."
Good luck!
Pat
Jim Stewart wrote:
> Has anyone had experience with the smaller Goodyear marathons? I just
> had a 13" Marathon blow up on my Bambi. The tire was 49 months old,
> always covered between trips and probably had less than 15,000 miles.
> The tire presure was always topped off at 50psi prior to a trip and
> speeds were kept below 65mph.
>
> Is there a better 13" tire out there?
> Jim
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 09:07:11 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hitch Height?
According to the book that came with my 68 - the hitch height (ball on tow
vehicle -doesn't say top or base of ball) should be 19" for all models except
18" for Caravel. I met you at RM Rally last summer, what I remember is that
you got a lot of dogs in a little trailer - LOL!
I think it would be logical to assume this measurement is the base of the
ball, top of the hitch bar? Please correct me if this is not correct,
somebody out there?
Just Plain Polly
1964 Globe Trotter
Colorado
WBCCI 7113
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 10:10:32 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hitch Height?
Polly. A dura-torque axle is weight sensitive. The "ball heights" that the
books list are for a trailer that is "totally" empty. No water, no LPG, no
payload, and no options. Therefore the correct ball height can and usually
is different for the same trailer, but loaded differently. It is very normal
to have more than one inch difference in ball height, or more, between two
identical trailers, but loaded differently.
Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 10:20:20 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hitch Height?
Doesn't it make sense to load your trailer to the correct ball height as this
seems to be the way it was designed? Or am I missing something here? Why
would they put the measurement in the book if it didn't relate to anything
practical??
Just Plain Polly
1964 Globe Trotter
Colorado
WBCCI 7113
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 10:11:55 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: The Never Ending Saga
I have not heard of someone trying to repair one of these tanks. Fortunately
I have not yet been in the position of needing to try!
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 2:10 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: The Never Ending Saga
> Scott Scheuermann wrote:
> >
> > Sounds to me like you are describing the original pressure tank.
>
> Very possible Scott, I just assumed that since it's aluminum, and not
> galvanized, that it's a replacement. I've been wrong before, it'll
> happen again. :) That at least makes me feel just ever so slightly
> better about the situation. At least if it's 44 years old and leaking,
> there's hope that the next one will last as long.
>
> BTW, is it possible to repair these tanks? Is there some way to weld
> aluminum? I'd go buy a tube of JB weld, but I don't think it would hold
> up to 60psi of pressure...any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated.
>
> --
> Ted Byrd
> 1958 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 10:57:52 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hitch Height?
Polly. The published ball height can be checked again and again, if the
trailer is empty. That permits you to check the rubber rods in the axle, to
see if they are still holding true, or are they failing. Our article
"Dura-torque Axle" in our web site, inlandrv.com addresses that issue, and
tells you how to check your trailers axle. How someone loads their trailer
varies considerably, from lightly loaded, to extreme overload. I know,
because of what I had to carry when working for Caravanner Insurance, my 1973
31 foot weighed a little over 10,000 pounds. The ball height at that weight
was 15 inches, some 3 1/2 inches below the published height. In time, if the
ball height lowers, it's really telling you that the rubber rods in the axle,
are history. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 11:11:51 -0500
From: "Phil Renner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: electrical
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C1CB49.0A692A80
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
The 63 Overlander is coming together quite nicely, and it's time I =
planned for the electrical system rebuild. Right now I've got a "non" =
converter 12v/110v original system with 2 circuit breaker box (missing =
breakers), no light fixtures worth saving or repairing, no original =
fan/vents, basically a clean slate, except for the wiring in the walls.
I'm planning (subject to change) on replacing all light fixtures with =
12v only, retaining 110v outlets in kitchen and bath, adding 12v =
Fantastic to bath ceiling, and replacing main 110v power cable.
Any suggestions on what converter to use? What about the Magnatek 6300 =
load center, that includes circuit breakers and fuses for the 110/12v? =
Or should I retain the original breaker box and only add a converter? I =
would need to add a 110v outlet to plug it into, wouldn't I?
And what about the 110v wiring to the fixtures that will no longer use =
any 110v? Simply wire nut them off, or shall I "un-wire" them back at =
the circuit breaker? Do the 110v outlets in kitchen and bath feed off of =
a "main" cable?
Lot of questions.
Phil Renner
63 Overlander
Guilford, CT
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C1CB49.0A692A80
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2713.1100" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The 63 Overlander is coming together quite nicely, =
and it's=20
time I planned for the electrical system rebuild. Right now I've got a =
"non"=20
converter 12v/110v original system with 2 circuit breaker box (missing=20
breakers), no light fixtures worth saving or repairing, no original =
fan/vents,=20
basically a clean slate, except for the wiring in the =
walls.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I'm planning (subject to change) on replacing all =
light=20
fixtures with 12v only, retaining 110v outlets in kitchen and bath, =
adding 12v=20
Fantastic to bath ceiling, and replacing main 110v power =
cable.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Any suggestions on what converter to use? What about =
the=20
Magnatek 6300 load center, that includes circuit breakers and fuses for =
the=20
110/12v? Or should I retain the original breaker box and only add a =
converter? I=20
would need to add a 110v outlet to plug it into, wouldn't =
I?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>And what about the 110v wiring to the fixtures that =
will no=20
longer use any 110v? Simply wire nut them off, or shall I "un-wire" them =
back at=20
the circuit breaker? Do the 110v outlets in kitchen and bath feed off of =
a=20
"main" cable?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Lot of questions.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Phil Renner</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>63 Overlander</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Guilford, CT</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C1CB49.0A692A80--
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 11:11:49 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Airstream Sauna
Anyone done this yet? Outfitted in redwood interior.....
Wendy
52-79
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 11:35:17 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: electrical
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C1CB4C.50AC32A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Phil,
I would suggest keeping all the 120V outlets, not just the ones in =
kitchen & bath. You may even want to add a few extra. Believe me, you =
will find a use for them!
Since you almost have a clean slate I would go all the way and replace =
the wiring in the walls too.
Scott
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Phil Renner=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 11:11 AM
Subject: [VAC] electrical
The 63 Overlander is coming together quite nicely, and it's time I =
planned for the electrical system rebuild. Right now I've got a "non" =
converter 12v/110v original system with 2 circuit breaker box (missing =
breakers), no light fixtures worth saving or repairing, no original =
fan/vents, basically a clean slate, except for the wiring in the walls.
I'm planning (subject to change) on replacing all light fixtures with =
12v only, retaining 110v outlets in kitchen and bath, adding 12v =
Fantastic to bath ceiling, and replacing main 110v power cable.
SNIP-----
------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C1CB4C.50AC32A0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4611.1300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Phil,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I would suggest keeping all the 120V =
outlets, not=20
just the ones in kitchen & bath. You may even want to add a few =
extra.=20
Believe me, you will find a use for them!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Since you almost have a clean slate I =
would go all=20
the way and replace the wiring in the walls too.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Scott</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Phil=20
Renner</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, March 14, 2002 =
11:11=20
AM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] electrical</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The 63 Overlander is coming together quite nicely, =
and it's=20
time I planned for the electrical system rebuild. Right now I've got a =
"non"=20
converter 12v/110v original system with 2 circuit breaker box (missing =
breakers), no light fixtures worth saving or repairing, no original =
fan/vents,=20
basically a clean slate, except for the wiring in the =
walls.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I'm planning (subject to change) on replacing all =
light=20
fixtures with 12v only, retaining 110v outlets in kitchen and bath, =
adding 12v=20
Fantastic to bath ceiling, and replacing main 110v power =
cable.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>SNIP-----</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C1CB4C.50AC32A0--
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 22:22:49 -0800
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Plumbing
Thanx fo all for suggestions on what caused the reduction of pressure on my
hot water system.
I activated and emptied the H20 heater three times and just kept flushing.
Used no chemicals but gradually the pressure began to increase :)
Aloha,
Bob
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 12:41:48 -0700
From: Michael Matheny <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hitch Height?
Thanks for the tips from everyone on hitch height. It helps greatly.
It looks like I will just probably need to get an adjustable or get
it to level ground to figure it out.
People made good points about having the tanks full to measure, also,
which brings up another question: I usually travel with empty tanks,
when I'm just heading from one campground to another.
I do this because the tongue weight listed on my tow vehicle is 330
lbs (which sounds low to me, considering that It is listed as being
able to tow 5,500 lbs on the highway) But anyhow, my theory was that
is would take some of the weight off the front of the trailer, but I
think now that I'll need to tow with tanks full to get the most
stable performance?
So my real question is: does having a Weight Distributing Hitch (like
Reese) negate or change this tongue weight limit in some way?
Thanks for your patience,
- Michael
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 13:52:44 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hitch Height?
You're towing with a ball on the bumper? A frame mounted hitch receiver
will raise the tongue load capacity and the load equalizing hitch will
level for changes in tank weight.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 15:16:40 -0600
From: "Jeff Griffin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hitch Height?
<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P><BR><BR></P>
<DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>Michael:</P></DIV>
<P>A weight distributing hitch should substantially increase your tongue weight limit.
The hitch is a wise and necessary investment. I would highly discourage towing any
trailer without a weight distributing hitch. BTW, the owner's manual for my '68
Carav<P>Jeff<BR><BR></P>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>From: Michael Matheny <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>Subject: [VAC] Re: Hitch Height?
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 12:41:48 -0700
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>Thanks for the tips from everyone on hitch height. It helps greatly.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>It looks like I will just probably need to get an adjustable or get
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>it to level ground to figure it out.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>People made good points about having the tanks full to measure,
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>also,
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>which brings up another question: I usually travel with empty tanks,
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>when I'm just heading from one campground to another.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>I do this because the tongue weight listed on my tow vehicle is 330
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>lbs (which sounds low to me, considering that It is listed as being
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>able to tow 5,500 lbs on the highway) But anyhow, my theory was that
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>is would take some of the weight off the front of the trailer, but I
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>think now that I'll need to tow with tanks full to get the most
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>stable performance?
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>So my real question is: does having a Weight Distributing Hitch
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>(like
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>Reese) negate or change this tongue weight limit in some way?
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>Thanks for your patience,
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>> - Michael
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>text
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: <a
href='http://g.msn.com/1HM305401/14'>Click Here</a><br></html>
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 15:25:25 -0600
From: "Jeff Griffin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hitch Height?
<html><div style='background-color:'>Oops...actually the manual says ball height for
my Caravel is 18''.</div><br clear=all><hr>Chat with friends online, try MSN
Messenger: <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM305401/12'>Click Here</a><br></html>
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 14:59:15 -0800
From: "Carol and Oliver Filippi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hitch Height?
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C1CB68.CF385F60
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hitch heights are typically listed in the Airstream owner's manual for =
the subject trailer.
In my case, the height to the TOP of the ball (2 5/16" diameter) is =
listed at 19 1/2" [1976 Tradewind}. I think this is the height for most =
of the recent models since the early 70's.
The manual does say that this height is with the tow vehicle loaded =
which would also include the load of the trailer tongue on the tow =
vehicle.
I recently switched tow vehicles and had my Reese weight equalizing ball =
mount removed and re-welded to the draw bar by an experienced local =
welder who does a lot of trailer hitches.
He mounted the ball mount an additional 3/4" higher than the 19 1/2" to =
allow for the settling of the tow vehicle under the load of the trailer =
tongue. Note that the weight equalizing spring bars are going to =
distribute the tongue weight to both the front and rear wheels of the =
tow vehicle, so that the tow vehicle retains its fore and aft angle to =
the road (typically parallel or thereabouts). In my case the tow =
vehicle was a 3/4 ton pickup. A lighter duty truck (say a half ton =
pickup) would probably have slightly weaker springs and would probably =
drop a tad more under load. In this latter case, the top of the ball =
might be set an inch higher than the loaded height on an unloaded =
vehicle.
If you can find an experienced shop, they know exactly what to do, given =
the specified ball height, the tow vehicle, and the tongue weight (and =
gross weight) of the trailer.
If you are really concerned, you might want to get two hitches, first =
the adjustable one, and also a welded one. This way, you could, via =
trial and error, set the adjustable hitch to the proper height on a =
level surface with the trailer and tow vehicle fully loaded, and spring =
bars properly adjusted. Then the welder could position and weld the =
ball mount to the draw bar in exactly the same position as the one on =
the adjustable assembly.
Although the bolt together adjustable hitch is OK, I am not a fan of =
bolts for this application. I have much more confidence in a properly =
welded ball mount/draw bar - no chance of the bolts getting loose under =
traveling vibrations.
Oliver Filippi
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Jeff Griffin=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 1:25 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Hitch Height?
Oops...actually the manual says ball height for my Caravel is 18''.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-----
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to =
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html When replying to a message, =
please delete all unnecessary original text=20
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C1CB68.CF385F60
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.3314.2100" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hitch heights are typically listed in the Airstream =
owner's=20
manual for the subject trailer.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>In my case, the height to the TOP of the ball (2 =
5/16"=20
diameter) is listed at 19 1/2" [1976 Tradewind}. I think this is =
the=20
height for most of the recent models since the early 70's.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The manual does say that this height is with the tow =
vehicle=20
loaded which would also include the load of the trailer tongue on the =
tow=20
vehicle.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I recently switched tow vehicles and had my Reese =
weight=20
equalizing ball mount removed and re-welded to the draw bar by an =
experienced=20
local welder who does a lot of trailer hitches.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>He mounted the ball mount an additional 3/4" higher =
than the=20
19 1/2" to allow for the settling of the tow vehicle under the load of =
the=20
trailer tongue. Note that the weight equalizing spring bars are =
going to=20
distribute the tongue weight to both the front and rear wheels of the =
tow=20
vehicle, so that the tow vehicle retains its fore and aft angle to the =
road=20
(typically parallel or thereabouts). In my case the tow vehicle =
was a 3/4=20
ton pickup. A lighter duty truck (say a half ton pickup) would =
probably=20
have slightly weaker springs and would probably drop a tad more under=20
load. In this latter case, the top of the ball might be set an =
inch higher=20
than the loaded height on an unloaded vehicle.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If you can find an experienced shop, they know =
exactly what to=20
do, given the specified ball height, the tow vehicle, and the tongue =
weight (and=20
gross weight) of the trailer.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If you are really concerned, you might want to get =
two=20
hitches, first the adjustable one, and also a welded one. This =
way, you=20
could, via trial and error, set the adjustable hitch to the proper =
height on a=20
level surface with the trailer and tow vehicle fully loaded, and spring =
bars=20
properly adjusted. Then the welder could position and weld the =
ball mount=20
to the draw bar in exactly the same position as the one on the =
adjustable=20
assembly.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Although the bolt together adjustable hitch is OK, I =
am not a=20
fan of bolts for this application. I have much more confidence in =
a=20
properly welded ball mount/draw bar - no chance of the bolts getting =
loose under=20
traveling vibrations.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Oliver Filippi</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"; =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Jeff=20
Griffin</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"; =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Multiple=20
recipients of VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, March 14, 2002 =
1:25=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: Hitch =
Height?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Oops...actually the manual says ball height for my Caravel is=20
18''.</DIV><BR clear=3Dall>
<HR>
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: <A=20
href=3D"http://g.msn.com/1HM305401/12";>Click Here</A><BR>To =
unsubscribe or=20
change to a daily Digest format, please go to <A=20
=
href=3D"http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html";>http://airstream.ne=
t/vaclist/listoffice.html</A>=20
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original =
text=20
</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C1CB68.CF385F60--
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 18:09:27 -0500
From: "Robert Gill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1CB83.610ED1C0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Chris
What type of book are you looking for.
I have some of my old tech school manuals that teach airframe repair and =
installing rivets.
Though I may not want to part with the complete book I may be able to cop=
y the pages you need to give you some basic info on installing rivets. Bu=
cked rivets are superior to blind fasteners but must be properly install =
to achieve correct installation. Each size has a minimum and maximum manu=
factured head. Thats the part you create when they are bucked. Of course =
bucking rivets requires access to both sides of the material, and some pr=
actice getting the proper manufactured shop head.
Before I get off on a tangent. Just let me know exactly what your looking=
for and I'll see what I can come up with.
Bobby
PS there is a web site for tin man tech that's fairly helpful. I think he=
may have also updated it with photos =20
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Elliott
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2002 10:40 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Chris. Every hammered in rivet you use, will fail, if you tow the trail=
er.
> They are not intended to be used on things that "must" stay together AN=
D not
> leak water. Andy
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> , replacing the window with a later style small or
> medium curved window, that opens, sealing as necessary and plasticoatin=
g the
> new exterior material, and painting, best possible, the new interior me=
tal.
> Also as much as possible, buck riveting is used, instead of Olympic riv=
ets.
> Andy
> ----------------------------
whaa? ? I thought a bucked rivet was a hammered rivet ...Guess I got the =
terms
wrong . Lots to this airplane talk .
So they have to be installed with a pneumatic gun , rather that a punc=
h and a
hammer - against a bucking block ( if I have that termed right ) ?
For any of you who would like to read up on this aluminium tech stuff ,=
I saw
a book called Standard Aircraft Handbook at Borders bookstore today , ( I=
didnt
buy it , I poweread it in the aisle and will look in the library , 24.95 =
is a
lot of clecos ! ) which was the best and only book I`ve found so far arou=
nd here
about this subject . If anyone knows of any better books ,let me know . T=
here
must be a way for me to learn this ( I`m too old for the service ! any on=
e have
any manuals from Uncle Sam ?? )
Chris 4 days no smoking
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1CB83.610ED1C0
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Chris</DIV> <D=
IV>What type of book are you looking for.</DIV> <DIV>I have some of my ol=
d tech school manuals that teach airframe repair and installing rivets.</=
DIV> <DIV>Though I may not want to part with the complete book I may be a=
ble to copy the pages you need to give you some basic info on installing =
rivets. Bucked rivets are superior to blind fasteners but must be properl=
y install to achieve correct installation. Each size has a minimum and ma=
ximum manufactured head. Thats the part you create when they are bucked. =
Of course bucking rivets requires access to both sides of the material, a=
nd some practice getting the proper manufactured shop head.</DIV> <DIV>Be=
fore I get off on a tangent. Just let me know exactly what your look=
ing for and I'll see what I can come up with.</DIV> <DIV>Bobby</DIV> <DIV=
> </DIV> <DIV>PS there is a web site for tin man tech that's fairly =
helpful. I think he may have also updated it with photos =
</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING=
-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGH=
T: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DI=
V> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>=
From:</B> Chris Elliott</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B=
> Wednesday, March 13, 2002 10:40 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial=
"><B>To:</B> Multiple recipients of VACList</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10p=
t Arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue</DI=
V> <DIV> </DIV><BR><BR>[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:<BR><BR>> Chris. Ev=
ery hammered in rivet you use, will fail, if you tow the trailer.<BR>>=
They are not intended to be used on things that "must" stay together AND=
not<BR>> leak water. Andy<BR><BR>[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:<BR><BR>> =
, replacing the window with a later style small or<BR>> medium curved =
window, that opens, sealing as necessary and plasticoating the<BR>> ne=
w exterior material, and painting, best possible, the new interior metal.=
<BR>> Also as much as possible, buck riveting is used, instead of Olym=
pic rivets.<BR>> Andy<BR>> ----------------------------<BR><BR>whaa=
? ? I thought a bucked rivet was a hammered rivet ...Guess I got the term=
s<BR>wrong . Lots to this airplane talk .<BR> So they have to be in=
stalled with a pneumatic gun , rather that a punch and a<BR>hammer =
- against a bucking block ( if I have that termed right ) ?<BR> For=
any of you who would like to read up on this aluminium tech stuff , I sa=
w<BR>a book called Standard Aircraft Handbook at Borders bookstore today =
, ( I didnt<BR>buy it , I poweread it in the aisle and will look in the l=
ibrary , 24.95 is a<BR>lot of clecos ! ) which was the best and only book=
I`ve found so far around here<BR>about this subject . If anyone knows of=
any better books ,let me know . There<BR>must be a way for me to learn t=
his ( I`m too old for the service ! any one have<BR>any manuals from Uncl=
e Sam ?? )<BR>Chris 4 days no smoking<BR><BR>><BR>><BR>> To unsu=
bscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to<BR>> http://a=
irstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html<BR>><BR>> When replying to a m=
essage, please delete all unnecessary original text<BR>><BR>><BR><B=
R><BR><BR><BR>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please g=
o to<BR>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html<BR><BR>When replying=
to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text<BR><BR><BR></B=
LOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1CB83.610ED1C0--
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #240
************************************
To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
