VACList-Digest       Wednesday, March 27, 2002      Issue 254
  
Today's Topics:
  
        1. What happened to my VAClist?
        2. Re: poliglowglow
        3. Northwest Rally
        4. Re: Shocks again
        5. Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
        6. Re: Holding tank capacities
        7. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
        8. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
        9. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
       10. Re: poliglowglow
       11. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
       12. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
       13. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
       14. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
       15. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
       16. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
       17. Re: Holding tank capacities
       18. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
       19. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
       20. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
       21. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
       22. Suburban heater
       23. Re: Vintage Advantage
       24. More Tire Confusion
       25. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
       26. Re: Suburban heater
       27. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
       28. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
       29. Re: Suburban heater
       30. Re: More Tire Confusion
       31. Re: Suburban heater




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Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 08:16:32 -0600
From: Stuart Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: What happened to my VAClist?

For some reason, I have not received any vaclist postings since issue
#247. I have come to enjoy reading and learning from them and hope your
issues resume soon. What happened?


Thanks

Stuart Smith



------------------------------

Message Number: 2
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 08:15:09 -0600
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: poliglowglow

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How is the Poliglowglow working Jim.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
  To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
  Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 12:21 PM
  Subject: [VAC] Re: poliglowglow


  I am going out now to get some will post the results.=20
  Jim Smith=20


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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>How is the Poliglowglow working =
Jim.</FONT></DIV>
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style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
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  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
  href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
  href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, March 25, 2002 =
12:21=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: =
poliglowglow</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica>
  <P align=3Dcenter><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2 =
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">I am going=20
  out now to get some will post the results. <BR>Jim Smith=20
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Message Number: 3
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 06:54:24 -0800
From: Patrick Ewing <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Northwest Rally

As the VAC's Region 10 Rep. I'm inviting anyone in the greater northwest
area that has a vintage Airstream to the local North Cascade Unit's very
first rally for this year. It will be held in the quaint little town of
Lynden, WA April 18th - the 21st. There should be several vintage units
there including one of my own.

If anyone is interested please contact me off list for more info.

Thank you,
Pat Ewing
VAC Region 10 Rep
WBCCI # 3675



------------------------------

Message Number: 4
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 10:18:08 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Shocks again

Tom. Delco no longer makes the "horizontal shock." Our part number for the 
proper replacement, which is used by Airstream is 12416. They are on sale on 
our web site, inlandrv.com       Andy


------------------------------

Message Number: 5
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 10:32:05 -0500
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

I have a couple of questions regarding tires and tire pressure:

First, I have a 1977 31' Sovereign with dual axles. The tires on it are 
7.00x15 Load Range D. The brand is "DEL-NAT HIWAY" (I suspect the cheapest 
the previous owner could find :-).

My owners manual says that Load Range D tires are "Not recommended by tire 
manufacturer" for my model of trailer. The only model they are recommended 
for are 21 and 23 foot single axle units.

Do I have a problem here? Are Load Range D tires Ok for my unit? The tires 
are in almost new condition, and I would hate to have to spring for four 
new ones.

My second question is in regard to "cold pressure". It is rather cold here 
at the moment, around 35 degrees. Should I perhaps have the pressure a bit 
lower than recommended, or is 35 degrees not too cold to worry about?

Dave

_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]

WBCCI: 5074

1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio




------------------------------

Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 09:35:00 -0600
From: "Jim Combs"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Holding tank capacities

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>From the Specifications page of the 1976 Airstream Owner's Manual: 
 
Main Holding Tank (Int'l Rear Bath)        20 gal.
Main Holding Tank (Int'l Center Bath)        23 gal.
Auxiliary Holding Tank (Int'l Rear Bath)        14 gal.
Auxiliary Holding Tank (Int'l Center Bath)        16 gal.
Main Holding Tank (L.Y.)        13 gal.
Auxiliary Holding Tank (L.Y.)     10 gal.        
Water Tank (Int'l & L.Y.)            50 gal.
Water Heater 27 ft. thru 31 ft. (Int'l)        10 gal.
Water Heater 21 ft. thru 25 ft. (L.Y.)        6 gal. 
 
Guess I was lucky finding the original owner's manual stashed away 
in a cubby-hole of the trailer.  At 92 pages, there's a lot of info in 
the thing.  An art-deco silver cover and some groovy-looking black-
and-white pics too.
 
Jimbo / '76 Sovereign

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Hightower [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]


Thanks, Jim. Yes, it's a '76. My brother looked it up, and it seems to be a
10 gal grey water tank, a 20 gal black water tank, and 45 gallons in the
fresh water. If you find anything different, I'd be happy to know.
 
Bob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Jim Combs <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 8:58 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Holding tank capacities


Bob, 
I believe yours is a 1976 model, right?  I have the answer 
to your question at home.  It's either in the owner's 
manual or the service manual.  I'll get the info tonight, 
and check back with you tomorrow to see if you still 
need it. 

Jimbo / '76 Sovereign 

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob Hightower [ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ] 
> 
>Is there a reference somewhere that gives the holding 
>tank capacities for the various models? 
> 
>I have a 31' Sov, 
[snip] 


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<TITLE>RE: [VAC] Holding tank capacities</TITLE>

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<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>From 
the Specifications page of the 1976 Airstream Owner's Manual: 
</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff 
size=2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT face="Courier New" color=#0000ff 
size=2>Main Holding Tank (Int'l Rear 
Bath)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 20 gal.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT face="Courier New" color=#0000ff 
size=2>Main Holding Tank (Int'l Center 
Bath)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 23 gal.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT face="Courier New" color=#0000ff 
size=2>Auxiliary Holding Tank (Int'l Rear 
Bath)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 14 gal.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN 
class=220312215-27032002><FONT face="Courier New" color=#0000ff size=2>Auxiliary 
Holding Tank (Int'l Center 
Bath)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;16 
gal.</FONT></SPAN></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN 
class=220312215-27032002><FONT face="Courier New" color=#0000ff size=2>Main 
Holding Tank (L.Y.)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;13 
gal.</FONT></SPAN></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN 
class=220312215-27032002><FONT face="Courier New" color=#0000ff size=2>Auxiliary 
Holding Tank (L.Y.)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;10 
gal.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
</FONT></SPAN></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT face="Courier New" color=#0000ff 
size=2><SPAN class=220312215-27032002>Water Tank (Int'l &amp; 
L.Y.)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 50 
gal.</SPAN></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT face="Courier New" color=#0000ff 
size=2><SPAN class=220312215-27032002>Water Heater 27 ft. thru 31 ft. 
(Int'l)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 10 
gal.</SPAN></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT face="Courier New" color=#0000ff 
size=2><SPAN class=220312215-27032002>Water Heater 21 ft. thru 25 ft. 
(L.Y.)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 6 gal. 
</SPAN></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff 
size=2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Guess 
I was lucky finding the original owner's manual stashed away 
</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>in a 
cubby-hole of the trailer.&nbsp; At 92 pages, there's a lot of info in 
</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>the 
thing.&nbsp; An art-deco silver cover and some groovy-looking 
black-</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff 
size=2>and-white pics too.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff 
size=2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=220312215-27032002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2>Jimbo 
/ '76 Sovereign</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma 
  size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Bob Hightower 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks, Jim. Yes, it's a '76. My brother looked 
  it up, and it seems to be a 10 gal grey water tank,&nbsp;a 20 gal black water 
  tank, and 45 gallons in the fresh water. If you find anything different, I'd 
  be happy to know.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Bob</FONT></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr 
  style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 
2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
    <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
    <DIV 
    style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> 
    <A [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
    href="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Jim Combs</A> </DIV>
    <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
    href="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of VACList</A> 
</DIV>
    <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, March 26, 2002 8:58 
    AM</DIV>
    <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: Holding tank 
    capacities</DIV>
    <DIV><BR></DIV>
    <P><FONT size=2>Bob, </FONT><BR><FONT size=2>I believe yours is a 1976 
    model, right?&nbsp; I have the answer</FONT> <BR><FONT size=2>to your 
    question at home.&nbsp; It's either in the owner's </FONT><BR><FONT 
    size=2>manual or the service manual.&nbsp; I'll get the info tonight, 
    </FONT><BR><FONT size=2>and check back with you tomorrow to see if you still 
    </FONT><BR><FONT size=2>need it. </FONT></P>
    <P><FONT size=2>Jimbo / '76 Sovereign</FONT> </P>
    <P><FONT size=2>-----Original Message-----</FONT> <BR><FONT size=2>From: Bob 
    Hightower [<A 
    href="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A>]</FONT> 
    <BR><FONT size=2>&gt;</FONT> <BR><FONT size=2>&gt;Is there a reference 
    somewhere that gives the holding </FONT><BR><FONT size=2>&gt;tank capacities 
    for the various models?</FONT> <BR><FONT size=2>&gt;</FONT> <BR><FONT 
    size=2>&gt;I have a 31' Sov, </FONT><BR><FONT size=2>[snip]</FONT> 
  </P></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Message Number: 7
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 10:59:17 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

Dave. We all learn with time, and hopefully go forward accordingly.  8 ply 
tires are obviously safer than 6 ply. It was thought back then that 8 plies 
would be too stiff of a ride for the larger trailers. Time has demonstrated 
that's not true. Your in great shape with 8 plies. However, I don't know 
about that brand. Cold pressure means when the tires are cold, namely you 
haven't been out on the highway yet, to warm them up. It has nothing to do 
with ambient temperature. As tire temperature increases, so does the 
pressure.
A greater concern would be to make sure that the tires, wheels and hub and 
drums are balanced as an assembly. You can see how this is done on our web 
site,  inlandrv.com    Click on articles, and then click on wheel balancing.  
 Andy 


------------------------------

Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 10:04:13 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

If load range D tires are recommended for 21 and 23' dual axle trailers
and yours is 31', those load range D tires would appear to be overloaded
and would seem to need load range E or stronger. Figure trailer weight
divided by four and compare that to the maximum for the load range.

You don't need to adjust your tire pressures because of ambient
temperature, though you might have to expect them to be on the high side
on a hot day and after running loaded heavy. There's never air added,
only lost, so any pressure changes up from the early morning checks are
only from ambient and tire friction heat. Radial tires tend to heat less
from friction so are mostly only affected by ambient (like sunshine
directly on the tire.

Gerald J.
-- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.


------------------------------

Message Number: 9
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:10:13 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

Gerald J. A Goodyear Marathon load range "D" tire at 65 PSI is rated at 2540 
pounds each, for a tandem axle total of  10,160 pounds. That certainly is 
very far from being overloaded with any tandem axle Airstream trailer, ever 
built. "E" tires are rated at about 3100 pounds each, at 75 PSI. If you put 
"E" tires on the original Airstream wheels and air them to maximum tire 
pressure of 75 PSI, then you are also at the max rating of the wheel, at cold 
pressures. That's not be what would be considered "safe." Safe is usually 
defined in mechanics as never exceeding about 75 percent of a maximum rating. 
But, since some folks love living on the edge, and toss safety aside, they 
sometimes don't realize the personal liability they expose themselves to when 
they operate out of reasonable and prudent safety envelopes. Andy   


------------------------------

Message Number: 10
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:11:12 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: poliglowglow


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I cannot recommend it. more later when I finish testing.
Jim Smith

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><P ALIGN=CENTER><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" 
FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I cannot recommend it. more later when I finish testing.<BR>
Jim Smith</P></FONT></HTML>

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Message Number: 11
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 11:18:08 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> Gerald J. A Goodyear Marathon load range "D" tire at 65 PSI is rated at 2540
> pounds each, for a tandem axle total of  10,160 pounds. That certainly is
> very far from being overloaded with any tandem axle Airstream trailer, ever
> built.

<snip>
Then why did his owner's manual say load range D wasn't appropriate for
the longer trailers?

Gerald J.

-- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.


------------------------------

Message Number: 12
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:39:49 -0500
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

At 10:04 AM 3/27/2002 -0600, Dr. Gerald N. Johnson wrote:
>If load range D tires are recommended for 21 and 23' dual axle trailers
>and yours is 31', those load range D tires would appear to be overloaded
>and would seem to need load range E or stronger. Figure trailer weight
>divided by four and compare that to the maximum for the load range.
>

The manual stated "Load Range C" tires for my trailer. The "Load Range D" 
were only for the single axle trailers.

Dave

_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]

WBCCI: 5074

1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio




------------------------------

Message Number: 13
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:16:03 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

Andy, I looked at your web site on hub, wheel and tire balancing. How do you
attach the weight to the hub to balance it? Or do you attach the weight to
balance the hub on the tire? I don't follow the purpose of the protractor or
mounting the final weight at 120 degrees. In step 12 the heavy spot is at
the arrow -- correct?   Pretty cool set up. I'm going to look for something
similar locally. Thanks for the information.

Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind

----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 10:59
Subject: [VAC] Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions


> Dave. We all learn with time, and hopefully go forward accordingly.  8 ply
> tires are obviously safer than 6 ply. It was thought back then that 8
plies
> would be too stiff of a ride for the larger trailers. Time has
demonstrated
> that's not true. Your in great shape with 8 plies. However, I don't know
> about that brand. Cold pressure means when the tires are cold, namely you
> haven't been out on the highway yet, to warm them up. It has nothing to do
> with ambient temperature. As tire temperature increases, so does the
> pressure.
> A greater concern would be to make sure that the tires, wheels and hub and
> drums are balanced as an assembly. You can see how this is done on our web
> site,  inlandrv.com    Click on articles, and then click on wheel
balancing.
>  Andy
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 14
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:26:00 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

I think this thread started out with a question about tire air pressure.
Wouldn't 65 lbs of air in a Load rated D tire make the trailer pretty bouncy
on concrete joints and irregular surfaces? What would be a suitable pressure
to run in Load rated D tires on a 24' Tradewind at about 5,000 lbs wet?

Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind

----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 12:10
Subject: [VAC] Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions


> Gerald J. A Goodyear Marathon load range "D" tire at 65 PSI is rated at
2540
> pounds each, for a tandem axle total of  10,160 pounds. That certainly is
> very far from being overloaded with any tandem axle Airstream trailer,
ever
> built. "E" tires are rated at about 3100 pounds each, at 75 PSI. If you
put
> "E" tires on the original Airstream wheels and air them to maximum tire
> pressure of 75 PSI, then you are also at the max rating of the wheel, at
cold
> pressures. That's not be what would be considered "safe." Safe is usually
> defined in mechanics as never exceeding about 75 percent of a maximum
rating.
> But, since some folks love living on the edge, and toss safety aside, they
> sometimes don't realize the personal liability they expose themselves to
when
> they operate out of reasonable and prudent safety envelopes. Andy
>




------------------------------

Message Number: 15
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:50:43 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> A greater concern would be to make sure that the tires, wheels and hub and
> drums are balanced as an assembly. You can see how this is done on our web
> site,  inlandrv.com    Click on articles, and then click on wheel balancing.

I spoke with a local RV dealer recently about this, and he made some
good points about the practice. First, they won't balance the wheels,
hub and drum as an assembly on travel trailers, only front wheels on
motor homes. He asked why I would want to do this, and I explained the
situation with my hub and drums. He says (I know, opinions abound) that
to do so on a travel trailer would eliminate my ability to rotate my
tires. Now, while tires are cheaper than Airstreams, and much easier to
replace, this still makes sense. I think the ideal practice is to ensure
that the hub and drums are properly balanced, and then to ensure that
the wheels and tires are balanced separately. Does this makes sense to
anyone else, and is it even possible?

--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander


------------------------------

Message Number: 16
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 14:16:49 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

The radius of the drum is so much smaller and its significantly lighter
than the rim and tire so that balance of the hub and drum I don't think
is significant compared to the variations in the tire. I've not seen
balancing apparatus for hubs and drums other than quite fancy machine
shop tools that might be used for balancing engine crankshafts. If
balance there is so critical it needs be done, a simple static balance
may not be sufficient. And there's no provisions for adding balance
weights so properly one must remove metal from the heavy side by
drilling dimples which I have seen in such assemblies so some time the
factory has done it.

The argument for balancing tire, wheel, hub, and drum in place is that
it lets the RV shop use standard wheel spinning techniques (of days of
yore). I suspect that if one balanced the wheel and tire on a balancing
machine and then checked the hub and drum with them on the trailer by
spin balancing in place that the unbalance would be barely detectable.

One way a tire shop might accomplish such a balance of the assembly
would be to balance wheel and tire, then remove hub and drum from the
trailer axle (not dropping bearings in the dirt and cleaning out ALL the
grease from the inside of the hub), and mount hub and drum in the wheel,
and then on the balancing machine (hoping that the axle of the balancing
machine didn't damage the bearing races in the hub) and balance again,
but grinding or drilling metal from the heavy side of the drum or hub if
any need was detected. Maybe the computer balance machine would run hub
and drum as a set without the wheel. But if that's a problem it should
have been done right when the hub and drum were made, each should have
been balanced, and since they don't wear much they should have never
changed. Not like a tire that's made oblong and worried mostly round
with lumps in its construction.

Likely the only reason a RV shop balances front wheels with their hubs
and drums on a motor home is that the tires are too large to fit a
common spin balance machine. Last time I tried to get tires for my 1 ton
truck balanced, they didn't have a wheel centering device to fit the
large opening in the wheel. The larger wheels turned slowly enough that
balance hasn't yet seemed to have been a significant need.

Since tires aren't used for steering and for thrust production on
different axles of a trailer, the only good reason I can see for
rotation is to put equal wear on the spare. And so when the tires on the
ground wear out, the spare hasn't died of old age and neglect with a
full tread. Which may be a valid argument. Its a good argument for
balancing the hub, drum, wheel, and tire as separate assemblies so any
can be mounted in any combination. Otherwise one has to keep track of
rim to drum to hub orientation when working on the brakes or the balance
will be destroyed if any two or more aren't put back in the same place
they were when they were balanced. That wastes the symmetry of the lugs.
Balance them separately!

Gerald J.
-- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.


------------------------------

Message Number: 17
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 14:00:52 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Holding tank capacities

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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        charset="iso-8859-1"
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RE: [VAC] Holding tank capacitiesThanks, Jim.

Bob
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Jim Combs=20
  To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
  Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 8:35 AM
  Subject: [VAC] Re: Holding tank capacities


  From the Specifications page of the 1976 Airstream Owner's Manual:=20

  Main Holding Tank (Int'l Rear Bath)        20 gal.
  Main Holding Tank (Int'l Center Bath)        23 gal.
  Auxiliary Holding Tank (Int'l Rear Bath)        14 gal.
  Auxiliary Holding Tank (Int'l Center Bath)        16 gal.
  Main Holding Tank (L.Y.)        13 gal.
  Auxiliary Holding Tank (L.Y.)     10 gal.       =20
  Water Tank (Int'l & L.Y.)            50 gal.
  Water Heater 27 ft. thru 31 ft. (Int'l)        10 gal.
  Water Heater 21 ft. thru 25 ft. (L.Y.)        6 gal.=20

  Guess I was lucky finding the original owner's manual stashed away=20
  in a cubby-hole of the trailer.  At 92 pages, there's a lot of info in =

  the thing.  An art-deco silver cover and some groovy-looking black-
  and-white pics too.

  Jimbo / '76 Sovereign


------=_NextPart_000_003E_01C1D597.CEC85CE0
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        charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>RE: [VAC] Holding tank capacities</TITLE>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks, Jim.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bob</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
  href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Jim Combs</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
  href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, March 27, 2002 =
8:35=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: Holding tank =

  capacities</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>From=20
  the Specifications page of the 1976 Airstream Owner's Manual:=20
  </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2>Main Holding Tank (Int'l Rear=20
  Bath)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 20 =
gal.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2>Main Holding Tank (Int'l Center=20
  Bath)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 23 =
gal.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2>Auxiliary Holding Tank (Int'l Rear=20
  Bath)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 14 =
gal.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
  class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3D"Courier New" color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2>Auxiliary Holding Tank (Int'l Center=20
  Bath)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;16=20
  gal.</FONT></SPAN></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
  class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3D"Courier New" color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>Main=20
  Holding Tank (L.Y.)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;13=20
  gal.</FONT></SPAN></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
  class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3D"Courier New" color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2>Auxiliary Holding Tank (L.Y.)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;10 =

  gal.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  </FONT></SPAN></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002>Water Tank (Int'l &amp;=20
  =
L.Y.)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
50=20
  gal.</SPAN></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002>Water Heater 27 ft. thru 31 =
ft.=20
  (Int'l)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 10=20
  gal.</SPAN></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3D"Courier New" =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002>Water Heater 21 ft. thru 25 =
ft.=20
  (L.Y.)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 6 gal.=20
  </SPAN></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2>Guess I was lucky finding the original owner's manual stashed =
away=20
  </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>in a=20
  cubby-hole of the trailer.&nbsp; At 92 pages, there's a lot of info in =

  </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>the=20
  thing.&nbsp; An art-deco silver cover and some groovy-looking=20
  black-</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2>and-white pics too.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D220312215-27032002><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2>Jimbo / '76 Sovereign</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
    <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
    size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_003E_01C1D597.CEC85CE0--




------------------------------

Message Number: 18
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 16:16:53 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

Andy,
  If an owner sets his tire pressure for the LOAD APPLIED, not the max 
rating on the sidewall, he should be OK. The problem arises when someone 
takes that "max pressure" on the sidewall as "recommended pressure".

All tire manufacturers have load/inflation charts that you should go by. 
Knowing the weight of the trailer, divide by either 4 or 2 as appropiate 
to find the load/tire. Then, set the pressure accordingly.

If you do frequent temperature checks while travelling, you'll soon know 
if the pressure is very much too low, as the tires will get quite warm. 
Normally, they'll not go much above 20 degrees above ambient 
temperature. Too-high inflation pressures will shake the trailer to 
pieces, loosening rivets and screws, etc.

FWIW: I run load range 'D' tires on a 6000# trailer and set the pressure 
at 45-48 PSI cold. They run very cool, and could probably be set a bit 
lower in pressure. It's important to remember that the tire is part of 
the suspension system in a trailer or automotive application.

                                  <<Jim>>

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Gerald J. A Goodyear Marathon load range "D" tire at 65 PSI is rated at 2540 
> pounds each, for a tandem axle total of  10,160 pounds. That certainly is 
> very far from being overloaded with any tandem axle Airstream trailer, ever 
> built. "E" tires are rated at about 3100 pounds each, at 75 PSI. If you put 
> "E" tires on the original Airstream wheels and air them to maximum tire 
> pressure of 75 PSI, then you are also at the max rating of the wheel, at cold 
> pressures. That's not be what would be considered "safe." Safe is usually 
> defined in mechanics as never exceeding about 75 percent of a maximum rating. 
> But, since some folks love living on the edge, and toss safety aside, they 
> sometimes don't realize the personal liability they expose themselves to when 
> they operate out of reasonable and prudent safety envelopes. Andy   
> 
> 
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
>  
> 
> 


-- 

                        <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                 <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
                                <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                             <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>



------------------------------

Message Number: 19
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 16:18:51 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

Dave,
  I can't imagine that running a higher-rated tire would really hurt 
anything, it gives a margin of safety, IMO. The main thing is to set the 
pressure at the recommeded value for the applied load, not the max 
rating on the sidewall. That number is appropiate ONLY if the tire is 
carrying its maximum rated load.

                                    <<Jim>>

David W. Lowrey wrote:

> At 10:04 AM 3/27/2002 -0600, Dr. Gerald N. Johnson wrote:
> 
>> If load range D tires are recommended for 21 and 23' dual axle trailers
>> and yours is 31', those load range D tires would appear to be overloaded
>> and would seem to need load range E or stronger. Figure trailer weight
>> divided by four and compare that to the maximum for the load range.
>>
> 
> The manual stated "Load Range C" tires for my trailer. The "Load Range 
> D" were only for the single axle trailers.
> 
> Dave
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> WBCCI: 5074
> 
> 1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
> Cincinnati, Ohio
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> 
> 


-- 

                        <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                 <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
                                <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                             <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>



------------------------------

Message Number: 20
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 16:25:27 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

Ted,
  I agree with you, 100%. Darned if I know where you'd get the drum 
balanced, though. It would be possible to build a setup to do this 
yourself if you're handy.

The way I'd do it would be to make a mandrel with plugs that fit the 
bearing races. Set up a pair of metal rails that are perfectly level OR, 
set up 2 pairs of small ball bearings, preferably with the seals 
removed, to reduce friction. Put the drum/hub, mounted on the mandrel, 
between the rails or bearing pairs, and the heavy spot will roll to the 
bottom. This is how large grinding wheels are balanced in factories.

                                <<Jim>>


T. Byrd wrote:

> I think the ideal practice is to ensure
> that the hub and drums are properly balanced, and then to ensure that
> the wheels and tires are balanced separately. Does this makes sense to
> anyone else, and is it even possible?
> 
>


-- 

                        <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                 <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
                                <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                             <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>



------------------------------

Message Number: 21
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 16:41:55 -0500
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

At 04:18 PM 3/27/2002 -0500, Jim Dunmyer wrote:
>Dave,
>  I can't imagine that running a higher-rated tire would really hurt 
> anything, it gives a margin of safety, IMO. The main thing is to set the 
> pressure at the recommeded value for the applied load, not the max rating 
> on the sidewall. That number is appropiate ONLY if the tire is carrying 
> its maximum rated load.

OK - Sounds reasonable.

Next question is: How do I determine what to set the pressure at? If 
maximum load is, for example, 2500 pounds. I have four tires, so total max 
is 10000 pounds. If I am only carrying 5000 pounds, does that mean I have 
the tire pressure at 1/2 what it says on the side wall of the tire?

This sort of makes sense, as the manual says to fill it to 32 pounds, for 
the Load Range C tires.

Also, whats wrong with having it filled to the max specified on the tire? 
Just a rougher ride?

Dave


_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]

WBCCI: 5074

1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio




------------------------------

Message Number: 22
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 14:46:36 -0700
From: gshippen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Suburban heater

Spring greetings Airstreamers,

 You may recall remember back when I was discussing my Suburban heater
ills (last fall) well I have conquered the thing!  I purchased a new
Dinosaur control board (at that time) complete with built in fuse and
led lights.  The fuse was fine, the lights seemed to function so it
seemed it must be the heater circuitry.  So I bypassed all the switches
tested with Ohm meter according to the trouble shooting info. from
Dinosaur, no power getting to the electromagnetic gas valves.  This
became even more obvious after taking the gas valve apart and watching
the small electromagnetic valves NOT open.  So what's left??? I checked
the contacts at the mother board where it plugs into the wiring harness,
bent them out to contact the board and there you have it the thing
worked like a charm!!!!  I can tell you I sure enjoyed watching those
little electromagnetic valves as they popped open then closed when the
thing cycled through.  I imagine most electricians would suspect the
plug in the first place, not me I suspected the worst and allowed that
to buffalo me on the project for close to a year.

Happy trails,
GAS
66 Overlander
62 Globe Trotter

P.S.
The Vintage Advantage Newsletter was truely interesting I most enjoyed
Paul Welschmeyers "Edison:Rethinking the function and interior of the
Airstream" and photos.



------------------------------

Message Number: 23
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 15:18:49 -0700
From: "Brad Norgaard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Vintage Advantage

Ok, ok, now I can't wait to get it. Thanks alot.

Brad N.

on 3/27/02 2:46 PM, gshippen at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> The Vintage Advantage Newsletter was truely interesting I most enjoyed
> Paul Welschmeyers "Edison:Rethinking the function and interior of the
> Airstream" and photos.



------------------------------

Message Number: 24
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:24:29 -0500
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: More Tire Confusion

OK - Just when I thought I had this figured out, thanks to all the help 
from this list, I discover the following printed on the side of the tires:
"Max Load Range Single 2040 lbs at 60PSI Cold
  Max Load Range Dual 1800 lbs at 60PSI Cold"

Whats the "Single" vs "Dual" about? I have a dual axle trailer, is that 
what "dual" means or perhaps it's "Dual Wheels", like on a truck?

GVWR on my trailer is 7200 pounds. Assuming I am not overweight, and with 
the tires I have, I figure I should have around 50 lbs pressure. Does that 
sound right?

BTW - Airstream's owner manual says 40 pounds for a 31' trailer with Load 
Range C tires (45 if they are radial tires).

Dave

_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]

WBCCI: 5074

1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio




------------------------------

Message Number: 25
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 16:57:10 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

Good tire data books include a table of load versus tire pressure. You
may have to pester your tire dealer a great deal or search the internet
hard. I used to have links bookmarked but I think they have all been
changed.

Gerald J.
-- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.


------------------------------

Message Number: 26
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 18:01:56 -0500
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Suburban heater

On Wed, 27 Mar 2002 14:46:36 -0700, Gas wrote:

>Spring greetings Airstreamers,
>
> You may recall remember back when I was discussing my Suburban heater
>ills (last fall) well I have conquered the thing!  I purchased a new
>Dinosaur control board (at that time) complete with built in fuse and
>led lights.  The fuse was fine, the lights seemed to function so it
>seemed it must be the heater circuitry.  So I bypassed all the switches
>tested with Ohm meter according to the trouble shooting info. from
>Dinosaur, no power getting to the electromagnetic gas valves.  This
>became even more obvious after taking the gas valve apart and watching
>the small electromagnetic valves NOT open.  So what's left??? I checked
>the contacts at the mother board where it plugs into the wiring harness,
>bent them out to contact the board and there you have it the thing
>worked like a charm!!!!  

        I've only run in to that a couple of times- but man, is it a
pain to troubleshoot. Check the valve- OK, check the board, OK, board
plus valve plus wire harness... not OK.
        Glad you found it.

-- 
Chris Bryant
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]


------------------------------

Message Number: 27
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 18:37:55 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

Dave,
  You should get a tire inflation chart from your tire manufacturer, 
although I'd imagine that such charts would be very similar for the 
same-size tire from all manufacturers. I don't believe that you'd 
simply cut the pressure in half because the load is half the maximum 
rating, but you get the idea.

Besides a harder ride, too much pressure will cause the tire to wear in 
the center of the tread and it will have less traction because the tread 
won't lie flat on the road. And, that 'harder ride' will shake your 
trailer unnecessarily.

If you want to see the effect of too much pressure, inflate your car 
tires to, say, 45 or 50 PSI instead of the more-usual 32 or thereabouts. 
Take it for a ride and see how it feels; you won't like it. If you want 
to get real adventuresome, lower the pressure to 20 and go a couple of 
miles. It'll ride better, but the tires will get warmer than they 
should, and if you go very far you run a real risk of a blowout or tread 
delamination.

                                  <<Jim>>


David W. Lowrey wrote:

> At 04:18 PM 3/27/2002 -0500, Jim Dunmyer wrote:
> 
>> Dave,
>>  I can't imagine that running a higher-rated tire would really hurt 
>> anything, it gives a margin of safety, IMO. The main thing is to set 
>> the pressure at the recommeded value for the applied load, not the max 
>> rating on the sidewall. That number is appropiate ONLY if the tire is 
>> carrying its maximum rated load.
> 
> 
> OK - Sounds reasonable.
> 
> Next question is: How do I determine what to set the pressure at? If 
> maximum load is, for example, 2500 pounds. I have four tires, so total 
> max is 10000 pounds. If I am only carrying 5000 pounds, does that mean I 
> have the tire pressure at 1/2 what it says on the side wall of the tire?
> 
> This sort of makes sense, as the manual says to fill it to 32 pounds, 
> for the Load Range C tires.
> 
> Also, whats wrong with having it filled to the max specified on the 
> tire? Just a rougher ride?
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> WBCCI: 5074
> 
> 1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
> Cincinnati, Ohio
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> 
> 


-- 

                        <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                 <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
                                <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                             <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>



------------------------------

Message Number: 28
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 15:33:01 -0800
From: "Carol and Oliver Filippi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions

YES !!

That is the only way to correctly solve the problem.

I checked here in the San Diego, CA area, and found a balancing firm that
would balance the hubs.  Quoted me $40.00 each over the phone, but said it
would be less if there were several.  So far I haven't been to his shop.

I'll keep you posted if I find out anything useful.

I am seriously thinking of going this route, even though the price is a
little high.  Once it is done, that's it.

Oliver Filippi

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 1:25 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions


> Ted,
>   I agree with you, 100%. Darned if I know where you'd get the drum
> balanced, though. It would be possible to build a setup to do this
> yourself if you're handy.
>
> The way I'd do it would be to make a mandrel with plugs that fit the
> bearing races. Set up a pair of metal rails that are perfectly level OR,
> set up 2 pairs of small ball bearings, preferably with the seals
> removed, to reduce friction. Put the drum/hub, mounted on the mandrel,
> between the rails or bearing pairs, and the heavy spot will roll to the
> bottom. This is how large grinding wheels are balanced in factories.
>
>                                 <<Jim>>
>
>
> T. Byrd wrote:
>
> > I think the ideal practice is to ensure
> > that the hub and drums are properly balanced, and then to ensure that
> > the wheels and tires are balanced separately. Does this makes sense to
> > anyone else, and is it even possible?
> >
> >
>
>
> --
>
>                         <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
>                                  <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>                                 <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
>                              <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
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>
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------------------------------

Message Number: 29
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 18:41:25 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Suburban heater

The FIRST thing I'd suspect would be connections in any electrical 
trouble-shooting in a trailer, especially one that's used on a seasonal 
basis. Same with an older vehicle, even if it's used on a regular schedule.

Ask me how I spent about $450.00 on my Dodge brakes because of a dirty 
electrical connector. <<sigh>>

                                 <<Jim>>

gshippen wrote:

> Spring greetings Airstreamers,
> 
>  You may recall remember back when I was discussing my Suburban heater
> ills (last fall) well I have conquered the thing!  I purchased a new
> Dinosaur control board (at that time) complete with built in fuse and
> led lights.  The fuse was fine, the lights seemed to function so it
> seemed it must be the heater circuitry.  So I bypassed all the switches
> tested with Ohm meter according to the trouble shooting info. from
> Dinosaur, no power getting to the electromagnetic gas valves.  This
> became even more obvious after taking the gas valve apart and watching
> the small electromagnetic valves NOT open.  So what's left??? I checked
> the contacts at the mother board where it plugs into the wiring harness,
> bent them out to contact the board and there you have it the thing
> worked like a charm!!!!  I can tell you I sure enjoyed watching those
> little electromagnetic valves as they popped open then closed when the
> thing cycled through.  I imagine most electricians would suspect the
> plug in the first place, not me I suspected the worst and allowed that
> to buffalo me on the project for close to a year.
> 
> Happy trails,
> GAS
> 66 Overlander
> 62 Globe Trotter
> 
>


-- 

                        <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
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                                <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
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------------------------------

Message Number: 30
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 18:45:55 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: More Tire Confusion

Dave,
  In this case, "Dual" means if the tires are mounted in a dual-wheel 
configuration, not single wheels on tandem axles. As in the rear wheels 
on heavier trucks, motorhomes, etc. Tires are derated in dual-wheel 
applications because they can't dissapate the heat as well.

Yes, I'd think that 50PSI would be about right for your trailer. Again, 
monitor tire temperatures when travelling, if they're getting 'hot', 
they're probably too low. Mind you, all tires will get 'warm' when 
travelling, especially if they're on the sunny side of the rig or the 
pavement is hot, but they don't usually get too hot to touch if the 
weather is mild.

                                 <<Jim>>

David W. Lowrey wrote:

> OK - Just when I thought I had this figured out, thanks to all the help 
> from this list, I discover the following printed on the side of the tires:
> "Max Load Range Single 2040 lbs at 60PSI Cold
>  Max Load Range Dual 1800 lbs at 60PSI Cold"
> 
> Whats the "Single" vs "Dual" about? I have a dual axle trailer, is that 
> what "dual" means or perhaps it's "Dual Wheels", like on a truck?
> 
> GVWR on my trailer is 7200 pounds. Assuming I am not overweight, and 
> with the tires I have, I figure I should have around 50 lbs pressure. 
> Does that sound right?
> 
> BTW - Airstream's owner manual says 40 pounds for a 31' trailer with 
> Load Range C tires (45 if they are radial tires).
> 
> Dave
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> WBCCI: 5074
> 
> 1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
> Cincinnati, Ohio
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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> 
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> 


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                                <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                             <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>



------------------------------

Message Number: 31
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 19:13:28 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Suburban heater

Some 15 years ago or more, Ford started preventing lamp socket and
connector problems by filling them with silicone grease, the same
dielectric grease used for high tension spark plug connectors. I've
begun to apply that to the light connections in my Caravel and so far in
two years I've not had to repair any protected from corrosion by the
silicone grease.

Decades before that, VW beatles by age 5 or 6 needed annual cleaning and
tightening of spade lug connectors from end to end. No silicone let them
corrode and heat and loose their temper. 6 volts made the connections
far more critical.

Gerald J.
-- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.


------------------------------


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