VACList-Digest Wednesday, March 27, 2002 Issue 255
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
2. Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
3. Friday 3/22 Digest
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 20:36:39 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
Jim Dunmyer.
I agree with you. The air pressure should be set for the anticipated load,
and not at maximum. I also agree that a load range "D" provides a great
margin of safety than a "C".
Some owners feel balancing anything is a waste of money, others feel
balancing just the tire is OK. My 36 years rebuilding and modifying the
Airstream product says otherwise. Complete balancing is necessary. But, if
someone doesn't want to, then it's really OK with me. It's their money and
equipment they are abusing, not mine. But, I will be here to rebuild the
abused trailer, and create another "believer." Insurance companies don't pay
for "long term" damage, as some think.
There is no known manufacturer of travel trailer hubs and drums that attempt
to balance them. Some feel it could be done any place for $5.00 each. Where
is that place? No one knows. Drilling into a drum or shaving or grinding some
of it's material away, is pure guess work and most certainly, trial and
error. I don't know about others, but I don't want any grinding going on any
where near my wheel balancer.
The fact remains that until someone comes up with a better way, trailer drums
must be balanced for optimum performance. Our web site, inlandrv.com shows
the Snap On Tool balancer. It's no longer available. With this system, we can
take a 15 inch tire mounted on a wheel, which in turn is mounted on a hub and
drum, and balance it as you will see on our web site, to the extent that we
can turn that assembly to any point and stop it. Adding 1/4 ounce weight to
the very top of the assembly, but slightly off center, will cause that entire
assembly to rotate. That to us, is a very good balance job. I have used this
system for 36 years, and swear by it. There are those that have their
opinions and they are welcome to that. But opinions are exactly that, and not
facts. Facts can be demonstrated again and again. Any doubter that has ever
witnessed, in person, how fine a balance can be done to a tire, wheel, hub
and drum, an assembly that weighs 80 to 85 pounds, that caused to be moved
with a 1/4 ounce weight or a mans handkerchief, says in wonderment, "WOW!"
If anyone wishes to visit our facility to make this observation, just let us
know when you will be here. But we will not go through the expense to make a
movie and put it on our web site. If someone disagrees, that's fine. We will
be here to put the coach back together.
Also Jim, if someone created a "drum balancer" rig such as you suggest, I am
sure that a flat rate charge to balance a drum would be a lot more than
$5.00, as some have suggested. That's also not saying how much liability you
would incur, when you modified that drum.
The question is asked many times, "Why doesn't Airstream use balanced drums?"
They would, if they could find someone that made them. No one makes them, is
the answer. But, if someone did, then I guess some would complain that
Airstream didn't use balanced "tires." Well, I am sure of that one too, but,
who makes a "balanced tire?" No one that I know of. But we don't ridicule
tire manufacturers because they don't.
The list goes on and on, as to how Airstream could build a "perfect trailer."
If they did, who could afford it? Not many, I am sure. But then, we don't
have perfect cars either, and there are far more cars made than Airstreams.
And then we ask, "whats perfect." I don't know either, but I do know what's
better, and best. Life is too short to worry about "perfects." We learn to
accept the things we can, and if not, then do something positive to make it
better. If not, then we need to move over and let the "doer," get busy.
Some lead, some follow, some just get out of the way.
Jim, thanks for your input and your frequent postings, to several sites. It's
nice to know that there is more than just a few on the other side of the
fence. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 21:10:55 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tire & Tire Pressure Questions
Andy,
Thanks for your post!
Never having actually checked the balance of the drums/hubs on a
trailer, I have no idea how bad they might be. Your experience suggests
that they're not very good. You're absolutely correct that the drums
couldn't be balanced for $5.00/each unless the OEM did it when they were
manufactured.
I used to work at a facility that machined 'V' belt pulleys from raw
castings. One of the last operations was balancing; this was done on an
automatic machine. The pulley was placed on a mandrel, spun up to a
surprisingly SLOW speed, then drilled and re-checked. All the operator
did was to place the pulley on the mandrel and remove it a few seconds
later. IIRC, he could easily do 3 or 4 per minute.
Believe it or not, when I bought new tires for my trailer (removed the
wheels and took 'em to a tire shop) they didn't bother balancing them at
ALL! Told me some crap about "trailer tires don't need to be balanced"
and got a bit snippy when I insisted that he put 'em on his machine and
balance them. Needless to say, he'll never sell me another tire, ever.
<<Jim>>
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Jim Dunmyer.
> I agree with you. The air pressure should be set for the anticipated load,
> and not at maximum. I also agree that a load range "D" provides a great
> margin of safety than a "C".
> Some owners feel balancing anything is a waste of money, others feel
> balancing just the tire is OK. My 36 years rebuilding and modifying the
> Airstream product says otherwise. Complete balancing is necessary. But, if
> someone doesn't want to, then it's really OK with me. It's their money and
> equipment they are abusing, not mine. But, I will be here to rebuild the
> abused trailer, and create another "believer." Insurance companies don't pay
> for "long term" damage, as some think.
> There is no known manufacturer of travel trailer hubs and drums that attempt
> to balance them. Some feel it could be done any place for $5.00 each. Where
> is that place? No one knows. Drilling into a drum or shaving or grinding some
> of it's material away, is pure guess work and most certainly, trial and
> error. I don't know about others, but I don't want any grinding going on any
> where near my wheel balancer.
> The fact remains that until someone comes up with a better way, trailer drums
> must be balanced for optimum performance. Our web site, inlandrv.com shows
> the Snap On Tool balancer. It's no longer available. With this system, we can
> take a 15 inch tire mounted on a wheel, which in turn is mounted on a hub and
> drum, and balance it as you will see on our web site, to the extent that we
> can turn that assembly to any point and stop it. Adding 1/4 ounce weight to
> the very top of the assembly, but slightly off center, will cause that entire
> assembly to rotate. That to us, is a very good balance job. I have used this
> system for 36 years, and swear by it. There are those that have their
> opinions and they are welcome to that. But opinions are exactly that, and not
> facts. Facts can be demonstrated again and again. Any doubter that has ever
> witnessed, in person, how fine a balance can be done to a tire, wheel, hub
> and drum, an assembly that weighs 80 to 85 pounds, that caused to be moved
> with a 1/4 ounce weight or a mans handkerchief, says in wonderment, "WOW!"
> If anyone wishes to visit our facility to make this observation, just let us
> know when you will be here. But we will not go through the expense to make a
> movie and put it on our web site. If someone disagrees, that's fine. We will
> be here to put the coach back together.
> Also Jim, if someone created a "drum balancer" rig such as you suggest, I am
> sure that a flat rate charge to balance a drum would be a lot more than
> $5.00, as some have suggested. That's also not saying how much liability you
> would incur, when you modified that drum.
> The question is asked many times, "Why doesn't Airstream use balanced drums?"
>
> They would, if they could find someone that made them. No one makes them, is
> the answer. But, if someone did, then I guess some would complain that
> Airstream didn't use balanced "tires." Well, I am sure of that one too, but,
> who makes a "balanced tire?" No one that I know of. But we don't ridicule
> tire manufacturers because they don't.
> The list goes on and on, as to how Airstream could build a "perfect trailer."
> If they did, who could afford it? Not many, I am sure. But then, we don't
> have perfect cars either, and there are far more cars made than Airstreams.
> And then we ask, "whats perfect." I don't know either, but I do know what's
> better, and best. Life is too short to worry about "perfects." We learn to
> accept the things we can, and if not, then do something positive to make it
> better. If not, then we need to move over and let the "doer," get busy.
> Some lead, some follow, some just get out of the way.
> Jim, thanks for your input and your frequent postings, to several sites. It's
> nice to know that there is more than just a few on the other side of the
> fence. Andy
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 19:21:38 -0800
From: Administrator <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Friday 3/22 Digest
Regular E-Mail Listees, I'm resending the Digests that were missed by the
Digest users, so please be patient and just delete them.
RJ
VAC Webmaster
-------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 20:00:50 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Alterations
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
The bottom line is that it is my trailer and my sweat and bucks that are
going into it
Jim Smith
1965 Tradewind (The Silver Abaltross)
--part1_e4.24ad7619.29cbdc42_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><P ALIGN=CENTER><FONT SIZE=2
FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">The bottom line is that it is my
trailer and my sweat and bucks that are going into it <BR>
Jim Smith<BR>
1965 Tradewind (The Silver Abaltross)</P></FONT></HTML>
--part1_e4.24ad7619.29cbdc42_boundary--
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 20:14:40 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fabric Swatches
John, I gather you do not have the original upholstered pieces or you are
interested in using a different fabric of the same era. Susan and I looked
at about 1,000 fabric samples (seemed like that many) after looking at
pictures of trailers of the vintage of our ' 68 Tradewind to see what was
used. We also found a ' 68 trailer that had the upholstery we wanted to use
in covering our couches. There is a big variation in upholstery prices, wear
and fade resistance, etc. I learned.
There is probably a dealer near you that handles foam which also comes in a
great variety of quality, prices and firmness. I'd suggest looking at the
various grades if you have the opportunity. There are sites on the net with
information you may find helpful in choosing.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 7:11 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [VAC] Fabric Swatches
>
> Ah, the time has come to replace the fabric (and foam) for the cushions
> in my '63 globetrotter. I have the sofa and a dinette.
> Does anyone have a book of fabric samples from this time period?
>
> Thank you -
> john
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 20:38:15 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Cleaning out H20 heater
Wait , stop. Take apart the shower head and get the rocks out of there.
Probably rocks in the other faucets too. You may have to take the
valves apart too. I have to do this a lot. Filters on input are a good
idea. Use an unbent paper clip to clean out the holes in the shower
head.
Daisy
My Airstream wrote:
>
> Last night I took my "shower" with the hand held flex hose in my 66 Safari
> in my hand. The hot water pressure was so low that I had to wave it no more
> than a couple of inches from my epidermis (did I spell it right?:)
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 06:58:26 -0800
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Cleaning out H20 heater
Daisy,
The lines are clear and with good pressure on Cold water. Only the Hot
water trickles.
Bob
Filters on input are a good
> idea. Use an unbent paper clip to clean out the holes in the shower
> head.
>
> Daisy
>
> My Airstream wrote:
> >
> > Last night I took my "shower" with the hand held flex hose in my 66
Safari
> > in my hand. The hot water pressure was so low that I had to wave it no
more
> > than a couple of inches from my epidermis (did I spell it right?:)
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 07:10:34 -0800
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Cleaning out H20 heater
> Bob, the original Bowen water heater in my ' 68 Tradewind was completely
> plugged up with mineral deposits when I got it. In testing the water lines
> for broken pipes and leaks I got cold water through the lines (and no
> leaks). However, when I opened the hot water lines I got no water at all.
> The old Bowen looked pretty gross under the exterior door so I pulled it
out
> (another story) after disconnecting the inlet and outlet flared fittings
> inside. Once I got the tank out I could see that the brass elbow fittings
in
> the tank were completely blocked with mineral deposits. I didn't even try
to
> clean out the deposits but ordered a new water heater instead. All the
> deposits were in the tank and none were in the water lines. With the new
> tank I get plenty of hot water and plenty of pressure -- equal pressure on
> the hot and cold lines.
Sounds like I have the same problem James. How much did the replacement
Bowen heater cost? How long ago did you make the switch? Has anyone else
tried to clean or clear the heater and lines?
Thanx,
Bob
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 20:54:47 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fabric Swatches
Does he need a check to hurry him along ? I would love to have such a
book.
Daisy
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> They occasionally surface (ebay, swap meets, this list) from old
> Airstream Dealerships. They contain Zolatone, wall covering fabrics &
> wood finishes available. One member of this list, (I won't name names
> so as to hide his secret identity), is collecting such items in order
> to write a book on Airstream decor through the years. I found this out
> after getting into an ebay bidding contest with him. Lets all silently
> give Tom a big "hurry up!
>
> Oops, I gave you his first name....
>
> RJ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 7:11 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [VAC] Fabric Swatches
>
> Ah, the time has come to replace the fabric (and foam) for the cushions
> in my '63 globetrotter. I have the sofa and a dinette.
> Does anyone have a book of fabric samples from this time period?
>
> Thank you -
> john
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 22:26:41 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Cleaning out H20 heater
Oh dear.....
My Airstream wrote:
>
> Daisy,
> The lines are clear and with good pressure on Cold water. Only the Hot
> water trickles.
> Bob
>
> Filters on input are a good
> > idea. Use an unbent paper clip to clean out the holes in the shower
> > head.
> >
> > Daisy
> >
> > My Airstream wrote:
> > >
> > > Last night I took my "shower" with the hand held flex hose in my 66
> Safari
> > > in my hand. The hot water pressure was so low that I had to wave it no
> more
> > > than a couple of inches from my epidermis (did I spell it right?:)
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 20:49:09 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Cleaning out H20 heater
My Airstream wrote:
>
> It is the consensus from this list' and an RV repairman (who was working in
> the park here) that the problem I was having with low hot water pressure is
> calcium and other mineral deposits caused by very hard water in this area.
Hey Bob,
One thing you may want to try is good old Sodium Bicarbonate, better
known as Baking Soda. Dump about a cup into your fresh water holding
tank, fill the tank about two thirds full, and drive your rig around the
block a few times to get it mixed well. Then run it through all of your
lines, making sure to fill the water heater with it. Let it stand for
two or three DAYS, then drain the system, refill with fresh water, drive
around the block again, drain and refill again. Keep flushing till it's
all washed out, you may have to repeat this entire procedure a few
times. Sodium Bicarbonate will eventually dissolve hard water deposits.
> Since the H20 heater output is at the top of the tank, how would I drain it?
> As I send this email the tank has been flushing for 2 hours but the pressure
> has not increased.
If you look at your water heater from outside, you may see a small valve
cock near the base of the heater, (looks like a thread pipe with wings),
this is the drain, just turn it counter clockwise to drain the tank.
This may depend on the year and model of your water heater though.
Hope this helps...
--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 19:57:50 -0800
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Cleaning out H20 heater
Is there no way to drain the tank? A good place to start would be to replace any
brass or steel fittings that take the water in and out of the tank... they may
very well be where your mineral build-up is. If you can drain it -- or even if
you can't -- white vinegar does wonders for loosening up mineral deposits. It is
a mild acid -- quite benign. Let it sit at least overnight, if not longer. Then
flush thoroughly, preferably NOT through the trailer's water system -- hook the
outlet to a hose (with a hose clamp) and run the water outside. It will be full
of pieces of minerals. ~ Rik
My Airstream wrote:
> Last night I took my "shower" with the hand held flex hose in my 66 Safari
> in my hand. The hot water pressure was so low that I had to wave it no more
> than a couple of inches from my epidermis (did I spell it right?:)
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 21:54:47 -0700
From: "Terry O'Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Cleaning out H20 heater
Bob
There isn't a shutoff from the H2O heater that is not fully open by chance?
Just a thought .
Take Care
Terry O'Neill
Calgary
66 Trade-Wind Double
WBCCI 4786
VAC
http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rik & Susan Beeson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 8:57 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Cleaning out H20 heater
>
> Is there no way to drain the tank? A good place to start would be to
replace any
> brass or steel fittings that take the water in and out of the tank... they
may
> very well be where your mineral build-up is. If you can drain it -- or
even if
> you can't -- white vinegar does wonders for loosening up mineral deposits.
It is
> a mild acid -- quite benign. Let it sit at least overnight, if not longer.
Then
> flush thoroughly, preferably NOT through the trailer's water system --
hook the
> outlet to a hose (with a hose clamp) and run the water outside. It will be
full
> of pieces of minerals. ~ Rik
>
> My Airstream wrote:
>
> > Last night I took my "shower" with the hand held flex hose in my 66
Safari
> > in my hand. The hot water pressure was so low that I had to wave it no
more
> > than a couple of inches from my epidermis (did I spell it right?:)
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 23:24:43 -0600 (CST)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Don Pokorski)
Subject: Re: Toast
Back to making toast in the tt. An aluminum fry pan is better than
teflon.
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 09:18:07 -0500
From: tom walden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fabric Swatches
It is not lack of funds. One sample book was lost to the SMARTBID
program on Ebay. He will never try to outsmart a computer and will
follow RJ's advice and bid as high as he can go right away. He also
needs to get off his posterior and put an ad in the VAC Newsletter and
the Blue Beret so everyone will donate swatches and samples and graphics
that have good color photos of original paint, curtains, formica, tile
and upholstery. Now, I'm not admitting anything, but I could be the heel
dragging guy who hasn't produced yet. I do accept samples of all
original upholstery and drapes and veneers from those changing or
repairing older units.
Tom Walden
Daisy Welch wrote:
> Does he need a check to hurry him along ? I would love to have such a
> book.
>
> Daisy
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
>>They occasionally surface (ebay, swap meets, this list) from old
>>Airstream Dealerships. They contain Zolatone, wall covering fabrics &
>>wood finishes available. One member of this list, (I won't name names
>>so as to hide his secret identity), is collecting such items in order
>>to write a book on Airstream decor through the years. I found this out
>>after getting into an ebay bidding contest with him. Lets all silently
>>give Tom a big "hurry up!
>>
>>Oops, I gave you his first name....
>>
>>RJ
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
>>Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 7:11 PM
>>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>Subject: [VAC] Fabric Swatches
>>
>>Ah, the time has come to replace the fabric (and foam) for the cushions
>>in my '63 globetrotter. I have the sofa and a dinette.
>>Does anyone have a book of fabric samples from this time period?
>>
>>Thank you -
>>john
>>
>>
>>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>>
>>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 10:09:29 -0500
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fabric Swatches
At 09:18 AM 3/22/2002 -0500, Tom Walden wrote:
>I do accept samples of all original upholstery and drapes and veneers from
>those changing or repairing older units.
>Tom Walden
What about carpets? I found a piece of the original YELLOW carpet that was
in my '77 Sovereign. I would be more than happy to donate a piece of it.
Do you want the actual piece of carpet? or would a photo do?
If you want the original piece, where do I send it?
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 09:32:39 -0600
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: poliglowglow
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C1D184.823A1F60
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Has anyone tried this product. The poliglow people say it will work on =
alluminum. http://www.poliglowproducts.com
------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C1D184.823A1F60
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Has anyone tried this product. The =
poliglow people=20
say it will work on alluminum. <A=20
href=3D"http://www.poliglowproducts.com";>http://www.poliglowproducts.com<=
/A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C1D184.823A1F60--
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 13:43:10 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: new-to-us Avion
on 03/20/02 12:45 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> We just bought a new-to-us Avion that included an EZ-Lift hitch, just
> like our present trailer.
Hey Jim,
Tell us more. Are you now the owner of two trailers? Are you catching
aluminum fever? <grin>
Today (03/21/02), we're at the Escapees Park (site #26) in Summerdale, AL.
This morning, there were a dozen of us at the computer club discussion
group. There is a pay phone with a data port for sending and receiving
email. This is the second time I've used the "dial manually" script to
access my ISP.
Cheers - it's the first day of Spring,
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Message Number: 16
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 17:33:41 -0500
From: tom walden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fabric Swatches
David,
A sample piece of the carpet would be great! Doesn't have to be very
big, just enough to include in a sample book and to get an idea of the
pattern and texture. Anything else we need to say to each other that is
not of general interest can be off list. But just want people to know I
am still working on this. My mailing address is:
TOM WALDEN
132 RUTHERGLEN AVE
PROVIDENCE, RI 02907
David W. Lowrey wrote:
> At 09:18 AM 3/22/2002 -0500, Tom Walden wrote:
>
>> I do accept samples of all original upholstery and drapes and veneers
>> from those changing or repairing older units.
>> Tom Walden
>
>
> What about carpets? I found a piece of the original YELLOW carpet that
> was in my '77 Sovereign. I would be more than happy to donate a piece of it.
>
> Do you want the actual piece of carpet? or would a photo do?
>
> If you want the original piece, where do I send it?
>
> Dave
>
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Message Number: 17
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 18:39:18 -0500
From: "Sissy Brown" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Portable A/C
I have a Toyotomi model portable A/C. It was pretty expensive, but does a
great job. It weighs about 70 lbs. and is on wheels. It is tall and
slender, and uses the flexible hose for venting hot air. It also has an
internal container for the condensation, but a flexible hose can be
installed (stuck on) and then put through the floor of the trailer. I have
a '61 Bambi and it works well. We also use the unit in an upstairs guest
bedroom -- or anyplace where necessary when not using it in the trailer. (I
live in New Hampshire, and don't have/need central air in the house). I
found it on the company's website, and ordered out of Florida.
Hope this helps.
Sissy B
'61 Bambi
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Message Number: 18
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 03:49:14 -0800
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Cleaning out H20 heater
First off, thanks to all for so many valuable ideas on clearing deposits in
my Bowen H20 heater and hot water lines. I did a dress rehearsal on all the
steps and here's what I found. The general appearance of the unit is clean
with no signs of structural problems. It does put out very hot water so I
figure it's worth saving.
I started to wrench on the top fitting (Output) when I saw a small tag with
type these old eyes could barely read. Something about "sweating the
fitting". I moved to the lower fitting and it had a red pressure relief
lever and more small type. Finally I found the drain valve near the bottom
of the tank facing toward the rear compartment.
It looks like a standard outdoor faucet with hose connection. I turned the
knob and it broke off in my hand. It looked like the inside had been kluged
with plastic wood and a screw. Break time :-(
I think I'm going to call a pro.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 7:49 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Cleaning out H20 heater
> My Airstream wrote:
> >
> > It is the consensus from this list' and an RV repairman (who was working
in
> > the park here) that the problem I was having with low hot water pressure
is
> > calcium and other mineral deposits caused by very hard water in this
area.
>
> Hey Bob,
>
> One thing you may want to try is good old Sodium Bicarbonate, better
> known as Baking Soda. Dump about a cup into your fresh water holding
> tank, fill the tank about two thirds full, and drive your rig around the
> block a few times to get it mixed well. Then run it through all of your
> lines, making sure to fill the water heater with it. Let it stand for
> two or three DAYS, then drain the system, refill with fresh water, drive
> around the block again, drain and refill again. Keep flushing till it's
> all washed out, you may have to repeat this entire procedure a few
> times. Sodium Bicarbonate will eventually dissolve hard water deposits.
>
> > Since the H20 heater output is at the top of the tank, how would I drain
it?
> > As I send this email the tank has been flushing for 2 hours but the
pressure
> > has not increased.
>
> If you look at your water heater from outside, you may see a small valve
> cock near the base of the heater, (looks like a thread pipe with wings),
> this is the drain, just turn it counter clockwise to drain the tank.
> This may depend on the year and model of your water heater though.
>
> Hope this helps...
>
> --
> Ted Byrd
> 1958 Overlander
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
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