VACList-Digest Sunday, March 31, 2002 Issue 259
Today's Topics:
1. floors and water tank problems
2. Sticky ceilings
3. Re: floors and water tank problems
4. Re: floors and water tank problems
5. Re: Getting set
6. Re: Anti-Sway Control for Pipeframe
7. Re: floors and water tank problems
8. Fw: Interesting item on eBay web site item#1815063606: 1965 AIRSTREAM DOOR
HINGE N.O.S. TRAILER
9. Water leak and dirt
10. Re: floors and water tank problems
11. Re: Digest Lists
12. Clear Coat job
13. Re: Getting set
14. Re: Fwd: Sticky ceilings
15. <no subject>
16. Wally's Gold Airstream
17. Trip Report, Spring Break 2002
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 18:47:01 -0700
From: "Pete Ryner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: floors and water tank problems
Ok, bad on me. I know there have been countless discussions over how to
door floor and water tank repairs, but I thought I would never need the
information, so I just deleted those files. Now I'm in the midst of trying
to repair a substantial problem in the rear of my '68 Ambassador. Long
story short, I attempted to replace the toilet and found the entire rear
floor rotted. I cut out the bad part, but am confused on how it should have
been assembled. The way it is assembled, the plywood floor fits into an
aluminum channel along the rear of the trailer, but the wood is exposed from
below outside the main frame and along the back where the storage box is
attached. Although it is covered by the belly skin, there are lots of gaps
so the wood is always exposed to the elements. Is this correct? If so, it
seems prudent to use maring plywood and coat with fiberglas for the best
protection. Second problem: After getting the rotten floor out, I found
that the black water tank has broken loose around the vent. What is the
best compound to glue this back together? Finally, the metal ring around
the toilet flange is simply gone. Is there a source for these? If so, is
there any way to cut the metal in two and re-attach it to the existing
flange? I'm afraid to try to un-glue the old flange and glue a new one in.
Any help will be greatly appreciated!
Pete
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 21:39:32 -0500
From: "Sissy Brown" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Sticky ceilings
I bought a '61 Bambi in 1997. It didn't have this problem, even though i
believe the previous owners smoked in the trailer. I got if from Idaho, and
used a lot and it lived in the heat of Texas for 4 years, and it never
developed this problem. The interior is original -- very clean beige
color. Bambi now lives in New Hampshire, and still no problem as described
(but a new issue with little bitty mice...)
S Brown
New Hampshire
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 22:53:00 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: floors and water tank problems
Pete Ryner wrote:
>
> Long story short, I attempted to replace the toilet and found the entire
> rear floor rotted. I cut out the bad part, but am confused on how it
> should have been assembled.
>
> [snip]
>
> Second problem: After getting the rotten floor out, I found
> that the black water tank has broken loose around the vent. What is the
> best compound to glue this back together? Finally, the metal ring around
> the toilet flange is simply gone. Is there a source for these? If so, is
> there any way to cut the metal in two and re-attach it to the existing
> flange?
Oh Pete,
I know that feeling only too well. The previous owner of our Overlander
did a great job of hiding all of the damage. Note to everyone
considering purchase of a vintage Airstream: Take an ICE PICK with you,
and poke it into every square inch of the floors under the water tank,
water heater, shower/tub & toilet, door, and around the edges of the
entire floor. You may be surprised what is hiding there.
I'm just about finished with the epoxy/fiberglass repairs on my floor,
and I am amazed at the results. It has turned a spongy, delaminating
floor into a rock solid floor. The "new" floor is considerably firmer
than the good, existing wood.
Now, you've cut out the bad sections of the flooring, so you can't use
this technique. AND you didn't save it to use as a template? Nor did you
take pictures so you could reassemble it? Shame on you. ;) Seriously
though, I'm sorry to hear you're in this pickle. However you decide to
proceed with replacing it, you can get by with using ordinary, exterior
grade 3/4" plywood thoroughly treated with penetrating epoxy, not
fiberglass. Fiberglass should be used as a final laminate over a rotting
floor to reinforce it after the epoxy treatment. You can find the epoxy
at Fiberglass Coatings, http://www.fgci.com/.
If you have large tears in your belly pan, you should patch them with
aluminum sheet stock available at most hardware stores and sheet metal
suppliers. I may very well be wrong, but I don't think there's anything
special about the aluminum used for the belly skin. I cut pieces to
match the size of the holes, gooped them up well with sealer, and
riveted the patches to the skin with 1/8" pop-rivets. If you have small
tears and gaps in the skin, use a good sealer intended for Aluminum,
Vulkem comes to mind. I used a "50 year" polyurethane sealer intended
for windows and gutters available at Home Depot to seal the rips and
holes in my belly pan, and saved the Vulkem for sealing above the belly
pan.
I have no idea how to repair your black water tank, it's going to depend
on the material; fiberglass, metal, polyethylene, ABS, or whatever. The
bottom of my tank was badly broken as a result of a dump valve that was
too low and probably dragging. I'm still looking for a replacement black
water holding tank, and the only thing that I've come up with so far, is
a custom replacement tank from All-Rite at the tune of $450. (Anyone
know where to find an inexpensive quarter circle tank that will fit in
the rear corner?) The toilet flange should be available at any RV parts
place. You may be able to cut the metal ring, slide it over the flange
and bolt it to the floor or tank cover. Or, if the toilet flange is a
screw in flange, you may be able find a suitable replacement for the
entire thing.
Anyway, I wish you the best of luck with your project. Just take it
slowly, one step at a time. Explore all of your options before you grab
a saw, and ALWAYS take pictures so that you will remember how it fits
together.
--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 09:47:29 -0800
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: floors and water tank problems
Yo Pete,
I found a collar/flange that worked perfectly at a local air
conditioning shop.
It was galvanized steel so I primed and painted to the original decor.
Bob
You said: > Finally, the metal ring around
> the toilet flange is simply gone. Is there a source for these? If so, is
> there any way to cut the metal in two and re-attach it to the existing
> flange? I'm afraid to try to un-glue the old flange and glue a new one
in.
> Any help will be greatly appreciated!
> Pete
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 07:26:51 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Getting set
Karl, what kind of parts are you looking for?
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 17:26
Subject: [VAC] Getting set
>
> My Land Yacht serial # L25-T6J-3523 is now in the front. I am
> fixing problems like a water leak at the bathroom sink and things like
> that. I have replaced the 25 year old water pump with a new one and it
> works real well.
>
> I wonder if anyone knows where I could buy some hard to get parts
> for this trailer?
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 09:21:48 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Anti-Sway Control for Pipeframe
On page 448 of my 1999 rv parts and accessorys catalog ,there is a sway
control by Trail pac (ACAR industries) that is for straight tongues like
boat trailers . I looked in the 2002 issue , its not there , nor are any
Reese products which used to be in the catalog . I noticed it when I was
looking for a weight hitch for my 250 lb tongue wt. Caravel which both
reese and husky make , btw .
Chris
Gerald Weber wrote:
> Wanted to get a sway control for my Wee-Wind, but it is a cylinder pipe
> frame.
> Any ideas?
>
> Gerry Weber
> 142 Mitchell Street, Suite 301
> Atlanta, Georgia 30303
> (404) 523-6201
> (404) 577-0181 (fax)
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 07:27:38 -0700
From: "Pete Ryner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: floors and water tank problems
Ted,
Thanks for the help. My real problem getting it back together is not that I
don't remember how it goes, but was it right in the first place? Do you
know how Airstream designed the closeout of the rear floor and the outer
skin? I couldn't use anything for a pattern as it was literally flakes and
dust around the edge and around the stool. I can't tell if the tank is
polyethylene or ABS. I know it isn't fiberglas.
Thanks again
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
T. Byrd
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 10:53 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: floors and water tank problems
Pete Ryner wrote:
>
> Long story short, I attempted to replace the toilet and found the entire
> rear floor rotted. I cut out the bad part, but am confused on how it
> should have been assembled.
>
> [snip]
>
> Second problem: After getting the rotten floor out, I found
> that the black water tank has broken loose around the vent. What is the
> best compound to glue this back together? Finally, the metal ring around
> the toilet flange is simply gone. Is there a source for these? If so, is
> there any way to cut the metal in two and re-attach it to the existing
> flange?
Oh Pete,
I know that feeling only too well. The previous owner of our Overlander
did a great job of hiding all of the damage. Note to everyone
considering purchase of a vintage Airstream: Take an ICE PICK with you,
and poke it into every square inch of the floors under the water tank,
water heater, shower/tub & toilet, door, and around the edges of the
entire floor. You may be surprised what is hiding there.
I'm just about finished with the epoxy/fiberglass repairs on my floor,
and I am amazed at the results. It has turned a spongy, delaminating
floor into a rock solid floor. The "new" floor is considerably firmer
than the good, existing wood.
Now, you've cut out the bad sections of the flooring, so you can't use
this technique. AND you didn't save it to use as a template? Nor did you
take pictures so you could reassemble it? Shame on you. ;) Seriously
though, I'm sorry to hear you're in this pickle. However you decide to
proceed with replacing it, you can get by with using ordinary, exterior
grade 3/4" plywood thoroughly treated with penetrating epoxy, not
fiberglass. Fiberglass should be used as a final laminate over a rotting
floor to reinforce it after the epoxy treatment. You can find the epoxy
at Fiberglass Coatings, http://www.fgci.com/.
If you have large tears in your belly pan, you should patch them with
aluminum sheet stock available at most hardware stores and sheet metal
suppliers. I may very well be wrong, but I don't think there's anything
special about the aluminum used for the belly skin. I cut pieces to
match the size of the holes, gooped them up well with sealer, and
riveted the patches to the skin with 1/8" pop-rivets. If you have small
tears and gaps in the skin, use a good sealer intended for Aluminum,
Vulkem comes to mind. I used a "50 year" polyurethane sealer intended
for windows and gutters available at Home Depot to seal the rips and
holes in my belly pan, and saved the Vulkem for sealing above the belly
pan.
I have no idea how to repair your black water tank, it's going to depend
on the material; fiberglass, metal, polyethylene, ABS, or whatever. The
bottom of my tank was badly broken as a result of a dump valve that was
too low and probably dragging. I'm still looking for a replacement black
water holding tank, and the only thing that I've come up with so far, is
a custom replacement tank from All-Rite at the tune of $450. (Anyone
know where to find an inexpensive quarter circle tank that will fit in
the rear corner?) The toilet flange should be available at any RV parts
place. You may be able to cut the metal ring, slide it over the flange
and bolt it to the floor or tank cover. Or, if the toilet flange is a
screw in flange, you may be able find a suitable replacement for the
entire thing.
Anyway, I wish you the best of luck with your project. Just take it
slowly, one step at a time. Explore all of your options before you grab
a saw, and ALWAYS take pictures so that you will remember how it fits
together.
--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 12:43:33 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Fw: Interesting item on eBay web site item#1815063606: 1965 AIRSTREAM DOOR
HINGE N.O.S. TRAILER
There is a main door hinge on Ebay for a ' 65 Airstream that would probably
fit other models also. Auction ends today. I'm sure these are hard to find
if anybody needs one.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
> Title of item: 1965 AIRSTREAM DOOR HINGE N.O.S. TRAILER
> Seller: dealaware
> Starts: Mar-21-02 19:32:50 PST
> Ends: Mar-31-02 19:32:50 PST
> Price: Currently $76.00
> To bid on the item, go to:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1815063606
>
>
> Item Description:
> 1965 AIRSTREAM DOOR HINGE ASSEMBLY, WITH THE STAINLESS STEEL SCREEN DOOR
HANGER INTACT...NEW OLD STOCK...NEVER EVEN HAD THE TEMPLATES DRILLED
THROUGH! THREE PIECE ASSEMBLY. 1)DIE CAST ALUMINUM BODY MOUNT SIDE. 2)
STAINLESS STEEL SCREEN DOOR HANGER THAT ACTS AS A BUSHING. 3)DIE CAST DOOR
MOUNT SIDE. CAME WITH MY '65 OVERLANDER WHEN PURCHASED NEW...THIS IS THE
TYPE OF HINGE THAT IS IN THE CENTER OF THE DOOR AND MEASURES 14 1/2
INCHES...WILL WORK OM MOST ANY SINGLE HINGE AIRSTREAM DOOR, UP INTO THE 70'S
MODELS! IF YOUR DOOR HINGE IS BENT,WORN OUT, OR JUST OXIDIZED THIS IS A
PERFECT REPLACEMENT! CHECK WITH YOUR INFORMATION SOURCES TO BE SURE IT WILL
WORK ON YOUR APPLICATION...I WAS TOLD THIS IS A VERY HARDTO FIND ORIGINAL
PART AND WILL BE WANTED BY SOMEONE DOING A RESTORATION...I JUST HOPE SOMEONE
CAN USE IT...IT'S BEEN STUCK IN A BOX SINCE 1965! CHECK MY OTHER AUCTIONS
FOR OTHER AIRSTREAM RELATED STUFF, INCLUDING A PARTS WRECK TRAILER AND A FEW
REAL SWEET TRAILERS THAT I WILL !
> BE LISTING! EMAIL ME YOUR WITH AIRSTREAM NEEDS...I HAVE A WHOLE 76 TRAILER
THAT WAS IN AN ACCIDENT AND WILL BE PARTED OUT...I ALSO HAVE THREE OTHER
TRAILERS TO SELL...AND I AM LOOKING TO BUY AN ARGOSY OR AIRSTREAM MOTORHOME
IN THE UNDER $10,000 RANGE...
>
> Visit eBay, The World's Online Marketplace TM at http://www.ebay.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 11:05:30 -0700 (MST)
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Water leak and dirt
Well my water leak is somewhere under the commode. So rather than
take that out now and fix it, I just shut the valve going to the commode.
That will be another project later.
Now cleaning out a summers collection of dirt. I know your
supposed to do that in the fall but...
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 13:19:22 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: floors and water tank problems
--part1_22.26323064.29d8ad2a_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
When I replaced the Rear bath of my Tradewind (the toilet fell through the
floor) I replaced the peaces on eather side and than fitted a peace in the
center. I made templates from construction cerdboard to get the cerve right.
I used an abrasive cuioff wheel to cut off the boalts in the channel. I
simply slid the new parts in the channel and used fiber glass tape to hold in
place. After the floor was installed I crovered the intire floor with fiber
glass matt and epoxy resin also theated the peaces before installing with
epoxy resin payimng close attention to the edges. I used 1/2 in exterior fir
ply for the floor and the new holding tank that I had to construct. The glue
on exterior and marine is the same.
Jim Smith
1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)
--part1_22.26323064.29d8ad2a_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><P ALIGN=CENTER><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"
FACE="Arial" LANG="0">When I replaced the Rear bath of my Tradewind (the toilet fell
through the floor) I replaced the peaces on eather side and than fitted a peace in the
cJim Smith<BR>
1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)<BR>
</P></FONT></HTML>
--part1_22.26323064.29d8ad2a_boundary--
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 11:11:37 -0800
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Digest Lists
To all the Digest users who did not get the Monday and Tuesday Digests from
last week.
I will send them out to all VACList subscriber addresses - that sees to be
the only way, as trying to include them in the current Digest didn't work,
they were just too big and were rejected by the server. Regular e-mail
message subscribers can just delete these two extra e-mails.
Some of the Digest #'s were tests to find the disconnect.
RJ
VAC Webmaster
> From: "Dennis Ober" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 21:35:24 -0500
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC] lists
>
> So what happened to Lists #248 thru #256 I never got them ??? Dennis
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 14:27:41 -0700 (MST)
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Clear Coat job
The job of removing the clear coat gets very hard in a hurry. I
decided to try just a small spot on the back left side. I found the paint
remover works fine on everything. So I must get a lot of masking tape and
some plastic sheets to protect everything. Not sure what to do with the
auwning but it looks like a bad job!
Getting the clear coat off will take a week or more. I'm going to
try another brand that does not have a spray head. I think application
with a sponge might be better. Will see.
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 14:27:52 -0700 (MST)
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Getting set
For example a whole new kitchen counter with a place for the 4 burner
stove and sink. It's over the hot water tank and space heater
On Sun, 31 Mar 2002, James Greene wrote:
> Karl, what kind of parts are you looking for?
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 17:26
> Subject: [VAC] Getting set
>
>
> >
> > My Land Yacht serial # L25-T6J-3523 is now in the front. I am
> > fixing problems like a water leak at the bathroom sink and things like
> > that. I have replaced the 25 year old water pump with a new one and it
> > works real well.
> >
> > I wonder if anyone knows where I could buy some hard to get parts
> > for this trailer?
> >
> > --
> > Yours Truly,
> >
> > - Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
> > http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 15:27:52 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fwd: Sticky ceilings
on 03/29/02 10:38 AM, Andy at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Sticky ceilings come from smoking, and cooking with grease and/or fats. It is
> also caused by smoke from cooking.
>
Hey Andy, any more reasons in your bag of tricks? Why do I ask? Our trailer
is a very obvious exception to your rule.
No one has ever smoked in our 1977 Airstream nor has anyone ever cooked in
it with grease or fats. The biggest byproduct of our cooking is steam and
you didn't mention that.
To my way of thinking, when there are exceptions to the rule (and especially
when the rule is about something I've owned since it was new), then the rule
is suspect and other possible reasons have to be considered.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 15:27:52 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: <no subject>
on 03/28/02 10:33 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Sometimes it seems there is a class structure between the motorhome owners and
> the trailerites.
>
Hi Skip,
When that occurs, my informal chit chat, my questions and the examples I
cite - are an attempt to turn the focus onto experiences common among all
Airstream owners.
People who want to exclude others and form their own class structure on the
basis of "differences between the THINGS they own" are going to hear a
different and contradictory viewpoint from me. I can do that and I do.
Camaraderie among Airstreamers as a group is my goal. This kind of
conversation will get my encouragement and involvement every time. Those
people with a strong need to be exclusive (divisive to the group) won't get
any of my attention nor any of my conversation. Big deal, who cares anyway?
I remember an old adage which said, the only thing that's constant is
change. In my opinion, the people who want to exclude anyone different from
themselves are the same people who have difficulty with change. There's no
way I can make people change, but I can certainly offer ideas and viewpoints
that may help them feel less threatened by it.
Granted, this is small potatos. But, if I play it right, perhaps a few
divisive attitudes will change and all of us will have a better time during
our various experiences with other Airstream owners.
Get the hook - pull me off the soapbox,
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 15:29:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Odessa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Wally's Gold Airstream
--0-1638753258-1017617341=:4196
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
If anyone has a picture of his trailer as it is today, I would love to see it. I
heard that he had one and wondered if the interior was a custom one? Does anyone
know?
Tim Baker
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Greetings - send greetings for Easter, Passover
--0-1638753258-1017617341=:4196
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
<P>If anyone has a picture of his trailer as it is today, I would love to see
it. I heard that he had one and wondered if the interior was a custom one?
Does anyone know? </P>
<P> </P>
<P>Tim Baker</P>
<P> </P><p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
<a href="$rd_url/welcome/?http://greetings.yahoo.com";>Yahoo! Greetings</a> - send
greetings for <a
href="$rd_url/welcome/?http://greetings.yahoo.com/browse/Holidays/Easter/";>Easter</a>,
<a
href="$rd_url/welcome/?http://greetings.yahoo.com/browse/Holidays/--0-1638753258-1017617341=:4196--
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 16:59:51 -0700
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Trip Report, Spring Break 2002
Hi All,
Well the boss decided this year her spring break was going to be an
Oregon coast adventure. So with no advance reservations we took off from
Boise to Astoria, OR.
This was the first opportunity for the newly assembled rig to run
together. Little Bit, our 75 22' Argosy, the new 2002 GMC Sierra 2500HD
8.l Liter/Allison transmission and the Equal-i-zer hitch.
Little Bit has not had a long use so we held our breath as the original
refer, furnace and water heater ran, as it turns out, with very little
trouble for 8 days. The eternal problem of a leaking relief valve next
to the water regulator was fixed with a 1/2" flare cap. The furnace and
water heater pilots had to be relit a couple of times??? Since I burped
the refer last year it has continued to run like a champ.
New truck turned out to be a towing monster. With less than 2500 miles
and it's first oil change done we hit the road. Cruise control in this
thing holds speed no mater what. Up hill or down, steep or flat what you
set is what you get. So we went 70 mph most of the way. Tow/Haul mode
makes a noticeable difference in downgrades holding speed. One thing we
had not bargained for was a 40 mile snow storm in the Blue mountains of
NE Oregon. So, a little 4 wheel drive and we went on. All very stable.
Must have been the hitch. Absolutely fell in love with the new CIPA
replacement tow mirrors. http://www.cipamirrors.com/towing.htm These
things are huge, 10" each way with 4.25 extension on each side..
Arrived at Fort Stephans, NW of Astoria, OR. No reservation, no problem
the state park had lots of room with electric/water sites for $16.05. We
spent the next couple of days touring Astoria, Fort Stephans, and Fort
Clatsop.
Astoria was founded in 1811 as a fur trading/fishing town. It is now a
tourist/fishing town. Lots of fun stuff to see and do.
Fort Stephans was a coastal fort guarding the mouth of the Columbia
river. It was established during the Civil War and closed after WWII. It
has the questionable distinction of being the only mainland installation
shelled by the Japanese during WWII. Army command being what it was they
were not allowed to shoot back??
Fort Clatsop was Merriweather and Lewis's winter over location at the
end of their trek to the Pacific. The Park Service has built a replica
and done a great job.
After a couple of days in the area we took a day to drive down the coast
to find a second location. Found a nice spot at Netarts Bay west of
Tillamook. Nice marina on the bay with lots of beach for walking. Came
back the next day to find our reservation had been given away 2 hours
after we left. Two days of bad Karma and good touristing. Saw the
Tillamook Cheese factory, the huge aviation museum and did lots of beach
walking.
Made the last move down to Beverly Beach SP above Newport, OR. Still
lots of room. All of the State Parks we visited had available spaces.
Spent a couple of days touring Newport including the Oregon Coast
Aquarium, several light houses up and down the coast. Spent one day deep
sea fishing. Although it is the "off" season we had not problem limiting
out bottom fishing for sea bass. So five hours and 22 fish later we
packed in for the day. After a day of recovery we headed back to Boise.
Arrived in the early evening to a 60 degree plus day.
Truck started out a little tight getting 8.9 mpg towing in the
mountains. On the way back it had loosened up to 9.8 mpg. No oil
consumption or unusual noises.
Towing through the snow and down the always windy Columbia Gorge proved
no problem for the Equal-i-zer. Lots of twisty turnies along the coast
went nicely. It towed rock steady all the way.
Charlie
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End of VACList-Digest #259
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