FYI, pulses are not DTMF.
On Fri, 4 Feb 2022 at 03:37, Cedric Amand wrote:
> Hello Steve, Hello everyone
>
> Thanks again really for taking the time... We all have lives and I really
> appreciate.
> I did some more research (isn't that what we all like in this hobby) and
> here is what I came
Excellent! Mystery solved!
I would love to add any other language/country roms to my Y2K page, but
I don't know how you can dump it without an eprom programmer.
I found one rom-to-serial program but I think it probably only does the
option rom not the main rom. I haven't tried it yet.
Sure, anything that can help the community,
CAT NO 26-3803
Serial 701400021
I just wanted to know if my problem was hardware of software, it seems to
be software - clearly the US rom breaks the modem ( and interestingly, it
also adds features like F2 pulse dialing in TELCOM, which my EU ROM does
A snip from the notes section at the rex# wiki:
Notes
=
Model 100:
* In Europe and UK, and probably elsewhere, there are newer versions
of M100 that have different boards.
* Model numbers are 26-3801B and 26-3802B.
* REX# does not function correctly in these models, due to the
The EU rom is really really different. Rex doesnt work with that rom.
Previous owner valued rex more than modem.
Steve
On Friday, February 4, 2022, Cedric Amand wrote:
> Hello Steve, Hello everyone
>
> Thanks again really for taking the time... We all have lives and I really
> appreciate.
> I
Hello Steve, Hello everyone
Thanks again really for taking the time... We all have lives and I really
appreciate.
I did some more research (isn't that what we all like in this hobby) and
here is what I came up with.
- I have for sure a Belgian, European, Model 102. no doubt about it.
- My little
Subject : Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line
Wow, ok, I hadn't considered that someone had replaced the main rom.
All bets are off in that case.
I would not be surprised if the modem doesn't work at all with the wrong
rom installed. The main rom has to match the hardware and the North
Cedric, who did you buy it from? I can go through my emails to find out
the history.
Thx Steve
On Thursday, February 3, 2022, Cedric Amand wrote:
> Thanks, i'll try all that.
> I must admit I don't fully understand what the REX# does, as I've only use
> it to make backups of the RAM, but it's
Original Message
From : b.kenyo...@gmail.com
Date : 2022-02-04 - 03:06 (CEST)
To : m...@bitchin100.com
Subject : Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line
Wow, ok, I hadn't considered that someone had replaced the main rom.
All bets are off in that case.
I would not be surprised
, and he sent me some
pictures.
Jonathan
>Original Message
>From : b.kenyo...@gmail.com
>Date : 2022-02-04 - 03:06 (CEST)
>To : m...@bitchin100.com
>Subject : Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100/102 modem pickup line
>
>Wow, ok, I hadn't considered that someone had replaced th
Wow, ok, I hadn't considered that someone had replaced the main rom.
All bets are off in that case.
I would not be surprised if the modem doesn't work at all with the wrong
rom installed. The main rom has to match the hardware and the North
American main rom does not match the European
Thanks, i'll try all that.
I must admit I don't fully understand what the REX# does, as I've only use
it to make backups of the RAM, but it's features go way beyond that, so
it's unclear to me if - for example - the tsdos that comes with would be
"US minded".
>From what I understand, the original
I can tell you one thing for sure, the REX has no effect on the modem.
But you can prove that to yourself by just removing it. It doesn't hurt
anything and it won't even lose it's programming. Just pop it out, and
see that it made no difference.
Have you tested the line with a plain analog
Hi,
I'm not familiar with the 102, but on the EU Olivetti M10, the
internal modem was disabled by removing a few parts (including the
line transformer) and shorting out the RX operational amplifiers on
the solder side of PCB. I've tried to restore the functionality of the
internal modem of my
Hello everyone,
I'm a new member, out of Belgium, I have a dozen of vintages PCs, I
especially likes laptops. I'm an electronics engineer which helpes for
fixing. Thanks for welcoming me and thanks to whoever created this in the
first place.
I'm trying to make the internal modem of my Tandy/RS
Hi Rafael, thanks for the reminder. I've been coping with jetlag, so my brain
has been elsewhere.
Indeed, I do have a screen. I'll follow up directly to your email.
/CAM
On Friday, October 26, 2018, 4:49:00 PM PDT, Rafael Arena
wrote:
Hi! Were you able to find a screen?
Thank
Hi! Were you able to find a screen?
Thank you,
> On Oct 21, 2018, at 10:25 AM, C.Magaret wrote:
>
> Hi Rafael, I believe I have a spare that I can part with. I’m out of the
> country for work at the moment, but when I return on Friday I can take a look.
>
> /CAM
>
> --
>
> Sent from my
Thank you!
> On Oct 21, 2018, at 10:25 AM, C.Magaret wrote:
>
> Hi Rafael, I believe I have a spare that I can part with. I’m out of the
> country for work at the moment, but when I return on Friday I can take a look.
>
> /CAM
>
> --
>
> Sent from my newfangled mobile technogizmo. Please
Hi Rafael, I believe I have a spare that I can part with. I’m out of the
country for work at the moment, but when I return on Friday I can take a look.
/CAM
--
Sent from my newfangled mobile technogizmo. Please forgive any typos,
inelegant brevity, or nonsensical auto-corrections.
> On
Yes, I believe you are correct the screen seems to be failing. There are parts
of the screen that have different contrasts. When i adjust the contrast those
area get brighter and darker but not at the same rate. Do you know where I can
get a spare screen? Besides purchasing another unit from
Hi
The failure you describe is not one I have seen. The two LCDs that failed
in my machines had horizontal bars of slightly darker contrast. When the
contrast was varied the bars remained slightly darker than the rest of the
screen. Eventually the -5V dropped to -2V as I assume the current
Hi!
Yeah, everything seems stable on the +-5v side. I will try to replace all the
caps. But probably the screen is going bad :(
Thank you,
> On Oct 14, 2018, at 10:57 AM, Fugu ME100 wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> If the voltage change on pin 4 is smooth the voltages look right - pg 38
> of the M100
Hi
If the voltage change on pin 4 is smooth the voltages look right - pg 38
of the M100 reference manual gives 0-4V as the range for V2. It feels
like VR1 is working correctly, indeed the whole contrast circuit would
appear to be fine.
With the screen plugged in can you measure the -5V and +5V
Hi!
I tried what was suggested and I get 0-3.8v on pin four (without the screen
plugged in). Can’t seem to figure out how to measure pin 4 with the screen
plugged in. When i turn the contrast knob the screen starts to jump around the
display random line sporadically. I have to turn the
Thanks for the suggestions, i will try that and let everyone know.
Thanks again!
> On Oct 12, 2018, at 11:57 AM, Fugu ME100 wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> The voltages look good. I usually replace C86 too it is part of the -5V
> output circuit.
>
> You could try measuring the contrast voltage on the
Hi
The voltages look good. I usually replace C86 too it is part of the -5V
output circuit.
You could try measuring the contrast voltage on the connector, pin 4, see
if it smoothly transitions and there are no “jumps". Also check the -5V
is stable as you vary the contrast. I have noticed on
Hi,
At times the computer comes on and when adjusting the screen display the image
gets all distorted and then fades away. I have checked the +5 and -5 volts
that the screen needs and I get +5 and -4.8 volts respectively. I changed
capaciitor ‘C85’ and checked all the memory chips. Like I
Hi,
At times the computer comes on and when adjusting the screen display the image
gets all distorted and then fades away. I have checked the +5 and -5 volts
that the screen needs and I get +5 and -4.8 volts respectively. I changed
capaciitor ‘C85’ and checked all the memory chips. Like I
You may be able to clean it with Deoxit D5.
Drench it good. Work the knob a few times a day for a few days. Give it at
least a week to dry out and act normal.
While the stuff is still wet, the screen may go totally blank, meaning no
darkened pixels, or just microscopically faintly under just the
Hi
What are the symptoms you are experiencing?
VR1 could go bad but it could also be due to oxidation on the resistors
tracks. People have tried to use contact cleaner to revive them. Might
be worth looking into trying that option first?
On 11/10/18, 3:57 PM, "M100 on behalf of Rafael
Hello,
I have a semi functional Model 100. I believe the issue is with the variable
resistor ‘VR1’. Where can I get a replacement? Do those VR’s typically go bad?
Thank you,
Ah ok. Well you definitely need to twist the wires then. It doesn't matter
which end you do it at, but it's easier to crimp the DIP normally, and do
the twists at the dvi end because it's hard to keep all those loose pairs
lined up in the wide dip connector.
Or there is a way to achieve the same
Hello Brian,
Thanks for the detailed response.
The cable that came with the DVI was for a M102. I was able to get
everything tested and working thanks to the recent pickup of a M102
mentioned in the "Tandy Model 102 Portable" thread.
So definitely an issue with the cable I made for the M100 and
If it came with a cable, it's probably a working cable. But if it's home
made, maybe it's not polarity keyed and it's possible to plug something in
backwards? Or it might be missing 1/2 of a 2-part cable.
Can you take a picture of it?
It's also possible to have a bad drive. Myself and someone
How is your M100 cable wired? You may be able to use it with the 102/200 cable
with a little adapter.
m
- Original Message -
From: Jesse Huyett
To: m...@bitchin100.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2018 8:44 AM
Subject: Re: [M100] Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video
Hello all,
Finally got some time and was able to test using the cable my DVI came with
and the M102 mentioned in the "Tandy Model 102 Portable" thread.
The cable I made for the M100 isn't working, but remaking will be a project
for another time.
Big thanks to Brian for the disk. Great to see a
0-boun...@lists.bitchin100.com>>
on behalf of Jesse Huyett <j...@huyett.us<mailto:j...@huyett.us>>
Reply-To: <m...@bitchin100.com<mailto:m...@bitchin100.com>>
Date: Saturday, April 28, 2018 at 4:16 AM
To: <m...@bitchin100.com<mailto:m...@bitchin100.com>>
Subject: Re: [M100] T
Hello Brian,
Thank you for the response.
> the right kind of drive but also the right kind of floppy controller
I have been looking but been unable to find any info on this. If you have
any pointers or documentation, I can try to make my own. Otherwise, ...
> just send me an address and I'll
It's possible to write a new floppy from a download IF you have not only
the right kind of drive but also the right kind of floppy controller on a
motherboard or isa card.
Otherwise just send me an address and I'll mail you a disk. I happen to
have a dvi set up and working at the moment so it's
Hello All,
I have a Tandy Model 100 Portable with the DVI (Disk Video Interface).
I built a cable for it I haven't been able to test since I haven't found a
way to create the boot disk.
I found a download of the files at club100.org (
I've updated the table to include the keyboard keys and modifiers
(SHIFT, GRPH, CODE) to obtain all characters in the table:
http://wickensonline.co.uk/static/files/tandy/Tandy%20Model%20T%20Code%20to%20Unicode%20Generated%20V1.8.html
I plan on re-creating the NATIVE keyboard maps using the
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