Phil(or anyone else)
  I have a Raymarine Chartplotter with internal battery that failed  this 
summer(after 9 years).  I have opened unit and the battery is soldered  in, 
tiny 
point solders.  Raymarine wants $159 to replace.  Is this  something I can 
tackle myself?  The battery costs $7.  HELP!!
 
Bill Walker
"Gayle Gal"
Catalina  27 Tall Rig
Pentwater, Mi.
 
 
In a message dated 11/25/2008 2:58:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 
Steve, 
That’s certainly a new product to  me. It’s made by a couple of real players 
and it’s certified by a couple of  agencies that test this type of product 
which is all good. What I don’t like  is that it involves a soldered 
connection. 
 
I can easily predict the results  when I set someone up with the right 
stripper, the right crimp tool, and the  right crimp terminal. That is usually 
not 
the case when it comes to a soldered  connection. I firmly believe Murphy’s Law 
was written about the simple solder  joint, and history certainly bears that 
out. 
I recently let a couple of PHDs  help out doing wiring on a group project. 
They know a great deal in their  fields and they “knew how to solder” and yet we
’ve already seen a half dozen  solder joint or nicked wire failures in just 
60 days.  
The audience on a list like this  ranges from newcomers with no particular 
relevant technical background to  someone with 30+ years in Quality & 
Reliability well versed in doing  failure analysis on a wide range of 
connection 
technologies in a metallurgical  lab.       
This product actually looks like  something worth noting for future use but I’
m extremely well versed when it  comes to wiring technology and will 
recognize when it can be used effectively.  Use it at the wrong time and it 
could 
easily obscure a cold solder joint from  detection before it fails in use. 
I do love the adhesive lined  shrink tubing seal portion of this device. This 
is great stuff and should be  used regularly. It has been readily available 
on crimp style terminals for  more than a decade and works great in a marine 
environment. I replaced all the  crimps terminals going to my bilge pumps and 
bilge sensor about thirteen years  ago and they are still going fine.  
Phil  Agur                    _s/v Wing  Tip_ 
(http://www.catalina27.org/public_pages/profile270.htm)   
Secretary,                     C270 LE  #184
IC27/270A                    MMSI 366901790 
_www.catalina27.org_ (http://www.catalina27.org/)   Vessel Doc# 1039809 
-----Original Message-----
From:  [email protected] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On  Behalf Of Port Huron Freecycle
Sent: Tuesday, November 25,  2008 6:02 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re:  catalina27-talk: Tool reccomendations 
Another way to get a gas-tight crimp is by using self  solder/shrink tube  
connectors. They are connectors that use a low temp  solder. They are  
placed over the connection, then heated, preferably  with a heat gun, but  
even a butane lighter in a pinch. This solders the  wire, and shrinks the  
tubing around the wire, forming a complete seal. These  can be used in  
very high moisture areas without failure. Not only do  you have a nice  
tight complete connection, but you do not have to  crimp in awkward or  
tough to access areas. There are even  crimp/solder/shrink tube  
connectors for those who still want to make sure. They  are all more  
expensive compared to regular crimp connectors, but I  personally don't  
like to fix things twice. 
If anyone is interested, I can post a link or two on  where to find them.  
I have scads of them from a previous job (I sold  maintenance items, so I  
have all the toys), and they are very  nice. 
Steve Bayless 
#3491 "Liebchen" 
Port Huron,  MI


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