Just a suggestion for all with similar strainers, try to tighten the wing nuts equally so the same amount of threads is showing on each screw. An unevenly tightened cap can leak air.
Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Sent from my iPhone On May 26, 2013, at 6:57 PM, Robert Abbott <robertabb...@eastlink.ca> wrote: > Gary: > > My issue was simply the two wing nuts on the top of the raw water strainer > weren't tightened enough to prevent the air leak........ I didn't need a new > water straining system with a better gasket sealing, I just needed a 1/2 to > 3/4 turn on each wing nut, problem solved. > > Took it apart in the Fall to clean it and didn't torque it down enough. > Won't happen again! > > Bob Abbott > AZURA > C&C 32 - 84 > Halifax, N.S> > > > On 2013/05/24 12:21 PM, Gary Nylander wrote: >> A friend of mine had a similar problem on his motorsailor. He had >> overheating problems, so took it to the mechanics at the yard in Key Largo >> for its usual bottom job and the motor work. Cored out the heat exchanger, >> ran through the whole water system (has a trans cooler in line as well) and >> dropped it back in the water. Ran great, great water flow at the dock, so we >> took it out. About a mile out, overheating! No water. Back in, check >> everything again. Ran it at the dock, great flow, put a load on it, great >> flow, ran for about half an hour at cruising rpm with load, great flow. Took >> it back out - lasted a mile.... back in again. >> >> It turned out that there was a small air leak in the raw water strainer, as >> Bob said. Why it would run at the dock and be OK, and not at the same rpm >> out in the ocean is still a mystery, but my friend (after blowing a good >> sailing week) decided a new water straining system with better gasket >> sealing was in order. >> >> All is well. >> >> Gary >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Robert Abbott >> To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:56 PM >> Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens >> >> Don: >> >> One more thing to check.....check to see that your 'o-ring seal' on your raw >> water strainer is tight .....if it isn't, your water cooling system will >> suck in air and not enough water to cool your engine. >> >> If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might not have put >> it back together tight enough. How do I know this? Daa! >> >> Bob Abbott >> AZURA >> C&C 32 - 84 >> Halifax, N.S. >> >> >> >> On 2013/05/23 11:13 PM, Dennis C. wrote: >>> Good suggestion from Rich. Even a new impeller can spin. >>> >>> Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the pump. >>> Disconnect the discharge at the pump. Start the engine and check for flow >>> there. (It won't hurt the engine to run a couple minutes with no water >>> flow.) Try to stop the flow by blocking the hose with a rag or your hand. >>> If the flow and pressure are good, move downstream. If no flow or you can >>> stop the flow then the issue is the pump or ahead of the pump. >>> >>> If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you cleaned. >>> Check for flow and pressure there. >>> >>> Dennis C. >>> Touche' 35-1 #83 >>> Mandeville, LA >>> >>> >>> From: Knowles Rich <r...@sailpower.ca> >>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >>> Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM >>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens >>> >>> Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to >>> make sure the bronze insert is not spinning inside the rubber impellor. >>> This can happen with a new or old unit and can fool you in an inspection as >>> the rubber vanes may look perfect. >>> >>> Rich Knowles >>> Indigo. LF38 >>> Halifax >>> >>> On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, "Don Jonsson" <dbjons...@shaw.ca> wrote: >>> >>> Hi >>> >>> I had previously sent out a message about an overheating diesel. The >>> culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because >>> generally when I cleaned it, it worked again. For a while. >>> >>> So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper >>> cleaning. I checked the water pump. I checked all hoses by blowing >>> through them and the engine. >>> >>> I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is >>> supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit – needed a new gasket, but >>> I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work. Got a new gasket and >>> put it on. Started up and no water. >>> >>> I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked – slightly corroded >>> but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water. Put everything back together and >>> started it up and a bit of water but too much steam. Took the thermostat >>> out and put it in more carefully. Tried again, water running, no steam >>> everything is perfect. Ran it for a while just to be sure. >>> >>> Turned it off. Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again. No water. >>> >>> So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn’t >>> that bad). Not the pump as it looks fine. Not the thermostat – I don’t >>> think although I will replace it. >>> >>> The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not. And >>> I’m stumped. >>> >>> This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different. Has anyone >>> had a similar problem and ideas for a solution. >>> >>> Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic >>> had to go find an old book. Is there any place online to find part numbers >>> for that engine? >>> >>> Thanks to anyone that can help. >>> Don >>> > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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