I once had a set of sockets made up for my boat. Bought a cheap set of 3/4" and 1" drive sockets from Harbor Freight and paid a welder friend to cut them in half and weld pipe between the two halves. 7" deep sockets. I gave them to the marina mechanic with the agreement that he could use them and owners could borrow them.
Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md ----- Original Message ----- From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 7:25:57 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts Check the amount of bolt sticking out. You may need a deep or extra deep socket. If the nut is 1 1/2" the bolt is 1" and requires 350 ft/lbs of torque. To me that would be a 1" drive and at least an 18" bar. As a start I would recommend borrowing or renting the appropriate socket, short extension and a 24" bar. Brace yourself and give it a really hard pull. 175 pounds of force is a lot, not too risky that you are going to exceed it by much. If you get any movement of the nut then you have an issue and should consider backing off the nuts, cleaning everything and torquing them correctly. If there is no movement of any of the nuts you may still want to clean and re-torque them for piece of mind. Some points to check is both the face of the nut and the matching washer need to be clean and smooth. Also square. I have a 1" drive set with deep sockets so have checked or helped re-torque a few keels. A few have been loose, maybe that way for years, but have not exhibited any problems. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 11:42:57 -0700 From: Russ & Melody < russ...@telus.net > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List torqing keel bolts Message-ID: < mailman.10915.1413573802.4799.cnc-list_cnc-list....@cnc-list.com > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed" Hi Lloyd, Sounds like you have a good mechanic. Good practice for fine work or critical assembly is back off & re-torque but it's unnecessary for keelbolts. And is the spec for dry & clean or lubricated? We just need them "tight enough", 10% over is no big deal. I would check each at spec then try again at 10% over on any that prove tight on first go, but stop at movement. But only 250 ft/lbs?... have you got 3/4 bolts? 1" should be 350 ft/lbs. I'm surprised he didn't suggest a torque-multi as Jim did. If you use an extension on the socket then you need to compensate for that torsion as well (depends on the length of the extension). KISS, we're closer to farm equipment standards here than race cars. :) Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 11:01 AM 17/10/2014, you wrote: > >Hello Listers, > >While on the hard want to check the nuts on the keel bolts and >understand 250 lbs is needed. Boat mechanic says it is very >difficult to get the proper leverage deep in the bilge. Anyone ever >used a small jack and maybe also with a cheater pipe to apply side >pressure against the bilge walls to move the torque wrench. > >Also, mechanic suggested slightly loosening the nuts first and then >re-tightening. That does not sound good to me. Any thought on his suggestion. > >I thank any responses in advance.... always appreciate the help. > >Lloyd Lippe >Finesse >LF39 _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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