I'd be interested in the answer to that question as well.

I do know that on the 35-1, the sump under the mast step is molded into the hull, and the aft part of that sump is the mating surface to the downward sloping forward end of the keel, the source of the smile. The forwardmost 3/4" bolt goes through wood blocks under a thin upper layer of fiberglass that are fitted into the aft part of the sump. (Don't ask me how I know, but it had something to do with an awful crunching sound that happened when I torqued the 3/4" bolt...).

I have the construction drawing for the 35-1, from South Shore, it shows the wood in the sump but not too much detail about the area under the six 1" bolts aft -it refers to another plan. It implies that that the six "pedestals", for lack of better word, in the bilge on which the nuts bear are part of the bottom of the hull molding and the lead is directly in contact on the outside, ie., there's no stub or spacer between the hull and lead, but it's not clear. I too would like to know what's actually there -anyone?

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly  35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 11/26/2014 5:51 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks. I forgot to mention tightening the keel bolts is NOT done in the
water!
Does anyone know if the 35 MK I and II keel stub is glassed on after the
fact or molded as part of the hull?


Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
-----Original Message-----
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Hoyne via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2014 3:18 PM
To: Will Harris; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel Bolts

Thanks for the advice:

On Nov 26, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Will Harris via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I've been following the conversation about Keel Bolts and cracks.  While
we didn't build your boats, I do have some general advice...
Cracks -  It is easy to think that a crack indicates something is
breaking.  Really, it means that something HAS BROKEN.  A crack around the
keel is potentially very serious.  If it is just the C&C smile, not as
serious, but if you find cracks in the laminate, or the structure or any of
the tabbing, get it looked at!
They will not heal themselves, and the consequences are really, really
bad.  Addressed early, the repairs may not even be too expensive.

When I get on the hard in the spring i can check where the cracks are coming
from and how serious they are (I hope)

Torque

In some of these threads, it seems like people are going to extremes
torqing up the nuts.  My guess is that you are trying to lift the keel up to
the hull with the nuts.  Don't do that!  I don't know the exact bolts you
may have, so I can't give you exact numbers, but that information is easy to
find.
All over torquing does is increases the odds of stripping, galling or
breaking a bolt. Even if you don't cause your keel to fall off, breaking a
bolt is a huge headache.

I agree. There is no point in over torquing and trying to lift the keel
while the boat  is in the water seems difficult and senseless.

The proper tool is the Travellift and a good operator.  To re-seat the
keel, make sure that the travellift sits the hull down flush on the keel.
The nuts are just there to keep it there.

We will see what happens in the spring!!

Happy Thanksgiving
Hope you all have a Happy Thanksgiving and eat lots of turkey!!

Bill


Will Harris
C&C Yachts
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