In a 12 volt setup, 10.5v of differential between the fully charged/charging 
bank (12.6 to 14.4v) and the depleted bank would probably mean that the 
depleted bank has something wrong with it – maybe some shorted cells.

 

In a 24 volt setup with 12 cells, the fully charged/charging bank would be at 
25.2 to 28v. The 10.5v differential would put the discharged battery at 1.5v 
per cell – seriously discharged. The high voltage differential would normally 
cause a high current flow, so I assume the Echo Charge is programmed to limit 
the current because of the heat from high current.

 

If I recall correctly, the Blue Sea 12v ACR that I have on Imzadi is designed 
to not open if either of the connected batteries is below something like 10.5 
or 11 volts. That prevents current flowing from a good battery bank into a bad 
one.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 12:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)

 

The graph indicates it’s the other way round ... when the voltage difference is 
high, the amperage output is low. I don’t understand why they would produce a 
graph that goes out to a voltage differential of 10.5 volts! 

 

I kinda get what they are saying .... but it’s almost like there’s a piece of 
the puzzle missing in the manual.

 

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

 

 

From: Knowles Rich <mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>  

Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 5:28 PM

To: Peter Fell <mailto:prf...@gmail.com>  ; cnc-list Cnc-List 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)

 

Hmmm… When the voltage difference between a charging source and battery being 
charged is high, the amperage flow is high as well, and vice versa.  

 

The Operation Manual for the EchoCharge says: 

 

"When the input voltage is 13.0/25.5 volts DC or higher, echo-charge 
automatically switches ON. The LED glows a steady green. When the input voltage 
is lower than 13.0/25.5 volts, the echo-charge automatically switches OFF, and 
the LED blinks green. The output voltage of echo- charge is limited to 
14.4/28.8 volts. When it reaches 14.4/28.8 volts, the charge current will 
decrease, maintaining a float condition. The starter battery will be fully 
charged without overcharging. 

No load current drain on the house bank is less than 50 milli-amps. 

If the input voltage is above 14.4 volts (or 28.8), output will be limited to a 
maximum of 14.4/28.8 volts. 

 

My interpretation is that when the output voltage of the echo-charge reaches 
14.4 volts, it assumes the start battery is full and lowers the applied voltage 
to float level, around 13.5. This reduces the charge current and keeps the 
electrolyte in the battery where it belongs.

 

I suggest looking at this paper for more insight into the three stage charging 
process.   
http://xantrex.com/documents/Inverter-Chargers/Freedom-458/MS20070308_3-stage-whitepaper.pdf

 

In any event, I have had an Echo Charge unit on my boat since before 2000 and 
have had the same start battery since then. The house batteries, two 400 series 
Surrette batteries, finally reached end of service  after 14 years. I have 
installed echo charge units as part of rewiring the primary systems on many 
boats over the years, and, other than a couple of units that died due to water 
exposure, they all perform very well and the owners don’t have to do any 
switching at all to maintain their battery systems.

 

Rich Knowles

Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





 

On Mar 28, 2015, at 10:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

It also says when the output voltage reaches 14.4 volts, it reduces the output 
current to maintain a float condition. There’s also a curve in the owner’s 
manual that relates difference in voltage between banks to output amperage. 
When the voltage difference is low, the amperage is high and it decreases as 
the voltage difference increases.

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 10:26 AM

To: C <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> &C List ; Rich Knowles 
<mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>  

Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)

 

Rich,

Great explanation but don't the other combiners turn off once the starting 
battery is greater than or equals to the house?  As was pointed out to me the 
echo-charge is simply a voltage follower with a limit of 14.4v.  At least one 
relay style combiner I've seem has an adjustable high voltage shutoff.

Josh

On Mar 28, 2015 10:51 AM, "Knowles Rich via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



I didn’t realize I’d start such a lengthy discussion. Sorry for the late reply. 
Work… 

 

I like the EchoCharge unit for the following reasons:

 

When you combine batteries for charging using an automatically actuated 
combiner, or by manual switching, all the batteries combined will receive the 
same voltage at their terminals. While each battery will absorb different 
amounts of amperage depending on their state of charge, a battery that is fully 
charged will start losing electrolyte if it is continuously provided excessive 
voltage when it is combined with a battery needing high voltage to efficiently 
recharge it.

 

In a well designed system, the engine start battery should be reserved for just 
that and nothing else. Although it will need to deliver high amperage to the 
starter, it will do so for only a few seconds to start an engine in reasonable 
condition, and that energy can be quickly replenished, usually within a few 
minutes. An average size 27 or 24 fully charged battery in good condition 
should be capable of starting a 30 hp diesel many times before requiring 
recharging. Once recharged, the presence of excessive voltage as charging of 
house batteries continues will cause the start battery to lose electrolyte.  If 
this process is repeated often or long enough, the start battery will 
eventually lose enough fluid to be unable to start the engine. This situation 
is exacerbated by the use of smart alternator controllers and multi step AC 
chargers which cause higher charge voltages to be present than those produced 
by internally regulated alternators and simple single voltage chargers. 

 

Directing all charge capacity direct to the house battery, and using the 
EchoCharge or a similar device to maintain a single purposed, isolated engine 
start battery, ensures that the start battery only receives enough charge 
voltage to recharge it to full capacity. Barring a failure, there will always 
be reliable power to start the engine. Switching should be provided to enable 
emergency use of the house battery to start the engine or the engine start 
battery to provide house power.

 

I have also used EchoCharge units to provide charge power to windlass batteries 
installed in the bow near the windlass. That saves a stack of money for 
expensive heavy copper wires to feed the windlass from the main house battery. 
If you install an EchoCharge, make sure it is in a dry, ventilated, relatively 
cool location. It is not waterproof, the principal cause for failure I have 
seen.

 

Multiple output AC chargers are OK to use but should be carefully chosen and 
installed. If batteries are in parallel, only one charge leg should be 
connected to that bank. If an automatic combiner is used, only one battery 
charging source is required. For systems I design, I use a single output smart 
charger to charge the house battery and rely on devices such as the EchoCharge 
to distribute charge current as needed to start and other auxiliary batteries, 
one device for each battery. That charger is connected to the same point in the 
system as the alternator, as are any wind generators and solar panels on board.

 

As an aside, I’m intrigued by the discussion about installing ever larger 
battery banks. Is this based on real calculated daily need, inefficient 
charging systems or other factors? Average daily power consumption for our 
boats including refrigeration, modern nav gear, sailing instruments, lighting 
and entertainment should not exceed 150 A/hrs per 24 hour period and generally 
will be much lower. A well maintained 450 A/hr house battery bank should be 
plenty in my opinion. More than that is excessive weight that simply slows down 
the boat and extends time between longer charges.

 

Controversy is welcomed! 

 

Rich Knowles

Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





 

Rich Knowles

Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





 


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