Peter and Josh; thank you both; these articles are great; they start with the 
general and go to the particular so the reader can see how it all fits 
together...I now understand where Edd was trying to get to with his diagram, 
and I need to look at what I have and start my own chart!  And, thank you Edd 
for asking the question in the first place! 

 


Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Fell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2015 12:06 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)


  
   
    
This is a good write-up too, I think:      
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137615.   
    
    
    
Also it describes the basic function and differences between the Echo-charger 
and the more ‘traditional’ combiners like the Blue Sea and Yandina.    
    
    
    
Similar to the Echo-charger is the Balmar Duo Charge ($$). I’ve also seen 
discussions of the Magnum Smart Battery Combiner:     
http://magnumenergy.com/smart-battery-combiner-me-sbc/ and the Victron Cyrix 
line of combiners:     
http://www.victronenergy.com/battery-isolators-and-combiners   
    
    
    
Regarding the Yandina, if it sees a low voltage on one of the banks, it cycles 
charging to try to bring the low bank up to a point where it can accept a 
constant charge.   
         
      
      
      
       
       From:        Josh Muckley via CnC-List       
       
       Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 6:28 AM      
       
       To:        Richard N. Bush ;        C&C List       
       
       Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)      
     
    
     
     
            
Try this to start.
     
http://www.yandina.com/combInfo.htm
     
Josh
     
On Mar 30, 2015 8:54 AM, "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" <     
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:     
      
              
I have been reading this thread about the wiring and the charging avidly, but I 
have no training in electrical engineering and I am having difficulty figuring 
out how all this comes together... is there a way someone could summarize this 
in layman's (rank beginner) terms?  I would like to know how the theory and the 
real wiring/charging system come together on the boat, I guess on Edd's boat in 
this instance, but, of course, I am looking to see how I can apply it in 
understanding and upgrading the system on my boat as well..... I recognize that 
the systems are going differ from boat to boat, but surely the principles must 
be the same?  Many thanks....       
        
        
        
                  
Richard         
          
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;          
         
          
          
          
Richard N. Bush          
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine          
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462           
          502-584-7255         
       
        
        
        
        
        
-----Original Message-----        
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <        cnc-list@cnc-list.com>        
To: 'Peter Fell' <        prf...@gmail.com>; cnc-list <        
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>        
Sent: Mon, Mar 30, 2015 8:38 am        
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)        
        
         
          
           
            
            In a 12 volt setup, 10.5v of differential between the fully 
charged/charging bank (12.6 to 14.4v) and the depleted bank would probably mean 
that the depleted bank has something wrong with it – maybe some shorted cells.  
         
            
                        
            
            In a 24 volt setup with 12 cells, the fully charged/charging bank 
would be at 25.2 to 28v. The 10.5v differential would put the discharged 
battery at 1.5v per cell – seriously discharged. The high voltage differential 
would normally cause a high current flow, so I assume the Echo Charge is 
programmed to limit the current because of the heat from high current.          
 
            
                        
            
            If I recall correctly, the Blue Sea 12v ACR that I have on Imzadi 
is designed to not open if either of the connected batteries is below something 
like 10.5 or 11 volts. That prevents current flowing from a good battery bank 
into a bad one.           
            
                        
            
            Rick Brass           
            
            Washington, NC           
            
          
         
        
       
      
      
     
    
      
 
  
 

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