Edd,It looks like you have a deep cycle battery. For engine starting you
want a starting battery. They are measured in CCA cold cranking amps. The
plates are thinner to allow a higher amp draw.
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.
------ Original message------From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List Date: Tue, May 26,
2015 08:35To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Edd Schillay;Subject:Re: Stus-List
Darker Smoke, Harder to StartSteve,
That’s where I’m confused, to be honest — the spec sheet on the T-1275 is here:
http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf
And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while starting. When
I combine, there’s enough there.
All my connections are sound — they’re all new.
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Edd, From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has
failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the battery
switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then substitute a
known good battery in its place and see what happens. Absolutely any car
battery, including the cheapest Walmart, will start your engine if the battery
is fully charged and in new condition. There is no way that you need to
consider paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your
starting problem. Steve ThomasC&C27 MKIIIPort Stanley, ON
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