Edd,
I am not trying to say that you did not check it already, but...
Last year, when I installed my batteries after the winter, one of them read
only 7 V (when measured at the panel). I though that it gave up the ghost (it
is about 5 years old), but it turned out that this was the connection between
the battery terminal and the wire. If I did not see it with my own eyes, I
would not believe that it is possible.
So it might be worthwhile to re-check all the connections between the battery
and the starter motor.
just a thought
Marek
From: S Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 2:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: S Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start
The thing that convinces me that it is either the battery itself or resistance
in the wiring somewhere is the fact that he gets quick starts and fast cranking
as soon as he switches in the house battery. That doesn't mean that the starter
is perfect either, but it just doesn't sound like the main source of the
problem to me.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Knowles Rich via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Knowles Rich
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 12:58
Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start
Also suggest hauling the starter motor and get it checked out. They don't
live forever.
RK
On May 26, 2015, at 08:50, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
If everything is good, then this battery can crank that engine without
breaking a sweat, even if the engine does not start easily and has to crank for
a bit. New connections are not automatically good connections. Check resistance
at every connection involved, and also measure voltage drop at the starter when
being cranked. It is also possible for a battery to have one bad cell that will
take a surface charge and make the battery look good until you put a load on
it. Harbor Freight has load testers for not a lot of money. You could also take
the battery to most places that sell batteries for a free load test.
Bill Bina
On 5/26/2015 11:34 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
Steve,
That’s where I’m confused, to be honest — the spec sheet on the T-1275 is
here: http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf
And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while starting.
When I combine, there’s enough there.
All my connections are sound — they’re all new.
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Edd,
From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has
failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the battery
switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then substitute a
known good battery in its place and see what happens. Absolutely any car
battery, including the cheapest Walmart, will start your engine if the battery
is fully charged and in new condition. There is no way that you need to
consider paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your
starting problem.
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
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