If everything is good, then this battery can crank that engine without
breaking a sweat, even if the engine does not start easily and has to
crank for a bit. New connections are not automatically good connections.
Check resistance at every connection involved, and also measure voltage
drop at the starter when being cranked. It is also possible for a
battery to have one bad cell that will take a surface charge and make
the battery look good until you put a load on it. Harbor Freight has
load testers for not a lot of money. You could also take the battery to
most places that sell batteries for a free load test.
Bill Bina
On 5/26/2015 11:34 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
Steve,
That’s where I’m confused, to be honest — the spec sheet on the T-1275
is here:
http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf
And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while
starting. When I combine, there’s enough there.
All my connections are sound — they’re all new.
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Edd,
From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275
has failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly
in the battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the
battery, then substitute a known good battery in its place and see
what happens. Absolutely any car battery, including the cheapest
Walmart, will start your engine if the battery is fully charged
and in new condition. There is no way that you need to consider
paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your
starting problem.
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
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