There are no glow plugs or electronic priming pump. If the engine hasn't been run or if you want to "prelube" the engine then you (or a helper) can pull the decompression levers for a few seconds while trying to start. Release the decompression levers while still pushing the start button and let the engine start.
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD Yanmar 3HM35F On Aug 11, 2015 11:35 AM, "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I have read this thread with interest, but I have a Yanmar, and realize > that they are going to be different, however, there are principles which > should apply to all engines...so, to those more knowledgeable than me, what > should I be looking for on my 3HMF Yanmar? (and, thank you to all who > have gone to such lengths to make sure we who are not so mechanically > inclined can understand and benefit from this discussion!) > > Richard > 1985 C&C 37, CB, Ohio River, Mile 584.4; > > Richard N. Bush > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 > 502-584-7255 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> > Sent: Tue, Aug 11, 2015 11:17 am > Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring > > David; > > Previous owners, shade tree mechanics, and inexperienced/inexpensive > mechanics often make repairs or modifications that are ill advised or less > than optimal. For example, I recently helped one of the boaters on our City > Docks diagnose why his recently replaced fuel gauge did not seem to work > reliably. Turned out the guy who replaced the gauge had gotten power from > the glow plug button – the downstream side of the glow plug button – so the > fuel gauge was only powered up when the glow plug button was pushed. > > Universals and Westerbekes are designed to be wired and started in the > manner described in the owner’s manual. I would restore the wiring to what > is shown in the wiring diagram, for a couple of reasons. > > Regarding the 8V at the starter solenoid terminal: You saw battery voltage > (about 12.6v) on the hot side of the starter button with the button not > pushed, 0v on the output side of the starter button with the start button > not pushed, and then 8v at the solenoid terminal when the button was > pushed. When you push the button you are energizing the coil of the > solenoid and creating what is almost a dead short across the solenoid. What > you were measuring between the solenoid terminal and ground is the voltage > drop that results from resistance in the coil, resistance in the metal of > the starter, resistance across the bolts holding the starter in place, and > resistance in the metal of the block as the current travels from the > solenoid terminal to the ground wire. 8v is a bit lower than I would > expect, but I see nothing unusual in such a reading. Your starter and > solenoid are fine. > > As Neil pointed out, pressing the glow plug button does a lot of things. > > Of course it powers the glow plugs, which are in essence a high resistance > short in the wiring, and the voltage at the output side of the glow plug > button will drop into the 11.5v to 12.0 v range. Powering the glow plugs > heats the air flowing into the combustion chambers, which is needed for a > cold start and improves starting during hot starts. In indirect injection > diesels (where fuel is injected into the airflow before the intake valve > instead of directly into the hot compressed air just before the conclusion > of the compression stroke) the glow plugs are needed to get good initial > combustion. Hot air makes the starting easier and faster, reduces the load > and cranking time on your starter, and ultimately how much current you draw > from the battery to start the engine. > > The glow plug button also powers the electric lift pump that supplies fuel > at 4 or 5 PSI (it might be as high as 7 PSI, but I don’t recall exactly) > through the engine fuel filter to the inlet of the high pressure injection > pump. That lift pump coming up to pressure is the rapid clicking sound you > hear for the first few seconds after you push the glow plug button. After > the engine starts, the pump is powered off the oil pressure switch as Neil > described. In a hot start situation without power to the lift pump, the > high pressure pump will supply fuel to the injectors for a few engine > rotations. But if the engine does not start the pump will be starved for > fuel and the engine will not start. Fuel starvation becomes more likely as > your fuel filters get plugged over time. > > As I said, I’d put the wiring back to what it was supposed to be according > to the manual and the wiring diagram. > > > Rick Brass > Washington, NC > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com > <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com?>] *On Behalf Of *David Knecht via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, August 10, 2015 11:16 PM > *To:* CnC CnC discussion list <CnC-List@cnc-list.com> > *Cc:* David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com> > *Subject:* Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring > > Since I got my boat, I have been bothered by the fact that the engine will > not start in the way it is described in the manual unless plugged into > shore power. The manual says to hold the glow plug button for about 30 > seconds and then while continuing to hold that button in, push the start > button. When I do that, the starter does not turn over. If I release the > glow plug button and push the start button the engine starts fine. My > father (retired electrical engineer) and I (genetic engineer- useless in > this case but sounds good) spent some time trying to diagnose the problem > this weekend and found two interesting things: > > 1. The buttons both tested fine in terms of their switch function. We > then tested power at the engine. There is a heavy red cable coming from > the battery to the starter measured 12V. The red-yellow wire from the > start button is attached to what I am presuming is the solenoid (the wiring > diagram in the manual does not show a solenoid). We only measured 8 volts > at the solenoid when the button is pushed, but 12 volts everywhere else. > So that probably explains the fact that both the glow plugs and starter > won’t work at the same time because we appear to be losing 4 volts in the > solenoid. I will pull the starter next winter and have someone test it > unless someone has an alternative suggestion. > > 2. The wiring diagram in the manual (Fig 2 on page 13) shows the power > from the key switch coming into the glow plug button and then a wire from > the other lead to the start button. The manual shows that wire running > from the downstream side of the glow plug switch so that the start button > should only be energized when the glow plug button is pushed (as the manual > describes). If that were the case, the I would not be able to start the > engine with only the start button. Nevertheless, it does start the > engine. Tracing the wires, we found that the bridging wire actually came > from the hot side of the glow plug switch, so that either button will work > independently as both are always powered. What I don’t understand is why > you would wire it the other way (as the manual shows) since that would > remove the ability to start the engine without the glow plugs (as in an > already warm engine). I don’t know if the PO or some yard mechanic made > that change or if it is indicated wrong in the manual, so I am curious how > other Universal panels are wired. The way it is actually wired makes more > sense to me than what is in the manual unless I am missing something. > > Thanks- Dave > > Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of > page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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