Hi Dwight, 

I had a different experience. I mounted my St4000 plus Mk II in 2003 out of the 
box and never adjusted anything, no rudder sensor. It worked fine for 12 years, 
many times it steered over 12 hours when motoring on cruises. Following seas 
under full sail presented a challenge, but we learned to hand steer or adjust 
sailplan down to genoa only. 

It recently lost the output signal for port turn. Nobody around here would look 
at fixing it so I bought a new Raymarine EV-100 system and installed that. It 
included a control unit that has sensors for roll, pitch, and yaw similar to 
airplane systems, so I'm looking for improved performance. Haven't had a chance 
to test it thoroughly. Too many family obligations. Maybe this weekend I'll get 
a chance? 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

----- Original Message -----

From: "dwight veinot via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "dwight" <dwight...@gmail.com> 
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2015 9:00:13 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot steering 

David, I can tell you that my Raymarine ST 4000 plus MKII wheel pilot was 
useless until I installed the rudder angle sensor that was supplied with it but 
I am not sure if your new wheel pilot was supplied with a rudder angle sensor.. 
I delayed installing that rudder angle sensor for 2 years because of the the 
difficulty in working below deck on the quadrant of my boat and during that 
time I moved the fluxgate compass forward to a locker below the port settee 
adjacent to the base of the mast and far away from anything magnetic but it 
still wouldn't hold a course. Finally I bit the bullet and wiggled myself and 
the necessary tools back into that cramped dark space to where I could do the 
rudder sensor installation on the quadrant. Once the control head had the 
signal from the rudder sensor the unit worked very well and now aside from it 
working well I also like the readout on the display that tells me my rudder 
angle. I don't quite understand why my wheel pilot required the signal from a 
rudder angle sensor because I thought the unit should be capable of steering a 
course based on compass input alone. This may not apply to you new wheel pilot 
but it does illustrate that everything has to be installed as described to get 
good performance from your wheel pilot so pay attention to where your compass 
is located and make sure all connections are good...you may also have gain and 
response controls on your wheel pilot so also experiment with the settings on 
those for your boat. The little motor that drives the wheel should not feel 
overly warm to touch even after many hours of steering. I am finally very 
pleased with my old Raymarine wheel pilot and very pleased with the repair (one 
blown resistor replaced in the circuit board) that was done by the Raymarine 
service center here in Dartmouth, NS about a month ago. 

Dwight Veinot 
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna 
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS 
d.ve...@bellaliant.net 


On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 1:04 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



I was on a long cruise last weekend and we ended up motoring for many hours. 
installed a new Raymarine EV1/ST4000+ wheel pilot last winter and this was the 
first extended use. I found that it was frequently cutting out while motoring 
(not sailing). The unit would simply freeze up and stop steering while the boat 
drifted slowly off course. No error on the P70 controller screen until I got an 
off course warning. I also noticed the wheel pilot getting warm/hot when this 
was happening which may be why it cut out. 
I also notice that while motoring, there is significant pull on the wheel that 
has to be fought to keep the boat going straight. Is that normal? I am guessing 
that the wheel pilot is overheating due to the power needed to continuously 
fight that pull? Thanks- Dave 

Aries 
1990 C&C 34+ 
New London, CT 



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