A Boomkicker from Defender is something like $228 or $275, depending on
whether you get the 45" or 53" length. One if or boats up to 30' and the
other is for 30' to 34' or some such. It comes with the brackets you mount
on mast and boom to attach the ends. It only lifts the boom so you still
need a soft vang - one strong enough to overcome the force generated by the
boomkicker in addition to the force needed to tension the sail.

 

>From Garhauer, the 12:1 rigid vang I have on my 25 is $275. The 18:1 on my
38 is $435. And the RV6 aluminum vang is priced in between those. Brackets
for mast and boom custom made for your boat are included.

 

You already have a soft vang. The old one on my 38 was a 4:1 that I have
repurposed for use as a preventer. The higher mechanical advantage of the
12:1 or 18:1 has a benefit when flattening the leach of the sail upwind in
high winds. And of course the vang controls the height of the boom, so the
mainsheet and traveler can be used to change the angle of attack of the sail
without changing the sail shape.

 

The first advantage of either the rigid vang or boomkicker is to support the
boom and eliminate the topping lift. Which means eliminating the hang-ups,
adjustments and chafe of a topping lift. 

 

The second advantage is that easing the vang in heavy air or downwind raises
the boom and opens the leach of the sail to spill wind, or to give you a
fuller sail shape when running. You can accomplish the same thing by easing
the soft vang and raising the topping lift. But that isn't always convenient
(or possible) when reaching or running unless you have rigged the topping
lift to be adjusted from the cockpit.

 

I have a slight prejudice against the boomkicker because I have seen two
instances when the upper end of the fiberglass rod became detached from the
bracket on the boom. That may have been an incorrect installation, or pilot
error. One skipper told me they let the boom get too high during a gybe and
the rod just came out of the bracket - but I suspect there may have been
more to the story.  Anyway, with the boomkicker not connected, the boom and
mainsail comes down into the cockpit when you lower the sail which is
neither convenient nor particularly safe.

 

I think Gary reported in an earlier post that he has experienced problems
with a boomkicker on a J boat on which he races. Perhaps he will refresh our
memories?

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of allen via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2015 11:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: allen <allenmi...@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

 

I already have a multi part soft vang.  What's the cost and performance
benefits of going to a boom kicker vs a solid vang?

 

Allen Miles

Septima C&C 30-2

Hampton, VA

 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 9:22 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Cc: Rick Brass <mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>  

Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

 

If you are unable to get proper luff tension when raising the main, and you
suspect the cause may be the tension on the leach of the sail, then the
problem is most likely that you have not loosened the mainsheet (or vang if
you have one) sufficiently before raising the sail. The weight of the boom
shouldn't be a problem.

 

As Dennis pointed out, the topping lift causes a lot of wear on the leach of
the main. And as Lee pointed out, it's major effect when sailing is to
negate any adjustments you do make to the mainsheet and vang, and to screw
up tacks in light air. On my 25 (where the end of the boom is only about 2
feet ahead of the backstay) the topping lift spent probably a third of its
life wrapped around the backstay and giving me fits. I was really glad to
get rid of the verdamte thing.

 

Josh said the topping lift might be useful to let the main twist off when
slightly overcanvassed. You can accomplish the same thing by slightly
loosening the mainsheet or the vang (if you have one); the pressure of the
wind will  increase the twist. Conversely, if you want to flatten the leach
while not hard on the wind, tightening the mainsheet will pull in on the
boom while it pulls down on the leach - which may not be optimal. The vang
will control the leach tension independent of boom position, so you can use
sheet and traveler to adjust the position of the boom.

 

When reefing, releasing the rigid vang will raise the end of the boom ( and
you won't need to stand on the cabin top or side of the cockpit to do the
adjustment). And when you are done setting the reef, a pull on the vang will
tighten up the leach and adjust the twist of the sail.

 

I have Garhauer rigid vangs on both my boats, and no topping lifts. Main
halyard gets attached to the end of the boom and snugged against the vang
when the sail is down to stop halyard slap and to keep the boom from rocking
side to side. I am a very happy camper.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 10:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar <drbod...@accesswave.ca <mailto:drbod...@accesswave.ca>
>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

 


Realized that I made an error - I was not referring to the leach, I actually
meant the luff (sorry - my nautical terms are not.
Sail is hard to hoist fully to get the luff tight.  Maybe if I raised the
boom with the topping lift it would be easier to fully hoist -- which would
then mean I would need to go back and loosen the topping lift every time.
I'll have to play with it a bit.
Same I guess when I reef - raising the boom with the topping lift would make
it easier to snug down the reef point.  The rigid vang would save the extra
step.

Thanks for all the info.  I'm tempted to go with the Garhauer rigid vang,
get rid of my topping lift completely - but I'll need to decide if that
makes it to the top of my list or not.

Mark



 
 
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2015-09-29 7:38 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List wrote:

I have a Garhauer ridgid vang as well.  Love it to death.  I eliminated my
topping lift all together with it.  When I'm at the
dock, I take the main halyard off and attach it to where the topping lift
used to be to snug up.  Keeps halyard from slapping the
mast and keeps the rigid vang from making spring noises as the boat bounces
a bit.

If you keep your topping lift, you need the ability to slack it off quite a
bit so your mainsheet can pull down as much as the 
sail will allow...

-- 
Cheers,
    Jeff Nelson
    Muir Caileag
    C&C 30
    Armdale Y.C.
    Halifax

   



-----Original Message----- From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 5:33 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar 
Subject: Stus-List Rigid vang 


Thinking about projects for the boat. 
I definitely need a new main sheet system - and expect I'll go with 
Marek's Garhauer suggestion.  But that then raises the idea of a rigid 
boom vang - If I'm going to buy one in the near future it's better to 
combine shipping. 
I'm not racing, and rarely use the existing vang (except for downwind to 
hold down the boom).  Currently boat is set up with a topping lift 
(which need to be replaced due to wear) 

I never adjust my topping lift - I have it set so it's slack when the 
sail is fully hoisted, and then when the sail is dropped it comes taut a 
few inches lower (maybe that's why I have a hard time getting the leach 
tight - easier if if I tightened up the topping lift before hoisting?). 

Any thoughts?  I've never used a rigid vang.  People happy with them? 
Given I don't adjust the topping lift I'm not seeing a big time savings 
- but maybe I should be adjusting it more? 

Mark 



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. 
  - George Santayana 


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