Rob,
You may not have overly low temperatures in Halifax, but 2 gal of AF would not be enough here (in Ottawa). Have you ever checked the actual concentration of AF that is _leaving_ the exhaust? I use about 5 gal (20 l - 25 l). The extra $3.50 is a cheap insurance for not busting (bursting) the heat exchanger or the muffler. Some interesting tests at Compass Marine: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/engine_freeze_protection . Marek 1994 C270 "Legato" Ottawa, ON From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via CnC-List Sent: October-22-15 21:19 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: robert Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked! Chuck / Dave: Chuck, I am with you....I don't understand how a few cups of antifreeze would get to the engine this way. Dave, I do something similar to winterize the engine, but no exactly the same. While on the hard, I fill a 5 gallon bucket in the cockpit with a fresh water garden hose keeping it filled and over flowing if it happens....I run a hose from the bucket to the raw water pump (remove the raw water hose to the pump, of course)......start the engine to flush the salt water and warm up the engine....shut the engine down......empty the bucket of fresh water.....put a gallon of concentrated antifreeze plus one gallon of fresh water in the bucket....restart the engine until I see the antifreeze exiting the exhaust thruhull....system full of antifreeze......shut down the engine.....my Yanmar 2GMF engine and exhaust system takes about the 2 gallons .....always a little left which I put in the head. Are you absolutely sure you have a hydrolock? As mentioned by a lister, first check your impeller in the raw water pump......if it is fine and all intact, I don't know how you could have a hydrolock but I am no marine engine mechanic. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-10-22 8:55 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: Dave, I'm surprised a few cups of antifreeze would get to the engine by the way you describe. The point where the raw water shoots into the exhaust should be angled to enter the exhaust and not the engine. Before it backs up into the engine, your hose from cockpit to engine, raw water strainer, the heat exchanger, exhaust hose and muffler needs to fill first, before it can back into the engine. That's a lot of water to move. Also, remember if the engine was stopped, the exhaust valve is closed on 3 of the 4 cylinders, so the intrusion is limited. Starting the thing might blow it all out? If I remember right, I can open a water hose under pressure to my raw water pump but it doesn't pass through the impeller until I start the engine turning. I suspect your pump impeller may be worn and need replacement? I'm hoping it is not hydolocked, but not starting for some other reason probably electrical, key off, switch off, batteries turned off. Did you hear the solenoid click? Did the starter whine or hum at all? Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md _____ From: "David Pulaski via CnC-List" <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "David Pulaski" <mailto:davepula...@hotmail.com> <davepula...@hotmail.com> Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 3:47:46 AM Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked! Thanks all for the words of advice! I'm going to be a wreck until Sunday when I can get there to try to resolve this situation. So here's how I managed to do this: I was attempting to winterize the engine, boat still in the water. First I just ran the engine normally for a while, maybe 30-45 minutes, while I got everything ready. After I shut it down and closed the raw water intake seacock, here was my winterizing plan: 5 gallon bucket sitting on the cockpit sole, filled with pink antifreeze. A length of hose running through the opening port in the aft cabin from the cockpit to the engine compartment, connected to the raw water side of the water strainer. Seemed simple enough: I could start the engine and watch the level in the bucket, adding more if necessary. My big mistake was attempting to prime the hose with antifreeze. I was just using a small cup to pour some antifreeze into the hose from the end up in the cockpit; no pressure. It didn't occur to me that the small height differential would be enough to push water past the raw water pump into the cylinders, but apparently it did. I didn't realize what had happened until I attempted to start the engine, and it wouldn't turn over. At first I thought the batteries didn't have enough juice to restart after my cold startup a few moments earlier. I stabbed the button a couple of times, and then it dawned on me. I went back down below and disconnected the exhaust hose from the manifold riser, and sure enough, pink poured out. Perhaps I'm having a stupid moment but I'm really still scratching my head over this. I really didn't pour much down the hose, just a couple of cups. But I'm actually somewhat hopeful that the contents of the cylinders is mostly antifreeze - should give some corrosion protection I'm hoping. Until sunday... -Dave _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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