Actual torque values are available on the photo album site. Another material which you might find handy would be G10 FRP board. It comes in 1/4" and 1/2". I can see the 1/2" working really well to act as one large strong back for multiple keel bolts. Glop some very thick epoxy or some Six10 under the board before setting it if you want. You could use mold release on the bolts or the G10 board if you thought that you might want to remove either in the future.
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Nov 8, 2015 10:37 PM, "Ahmet via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Thanks a lot guys. I will respond in one email to all the feedback to save > on band with. > > Gary Kolc: Thank you that is very interesting and good to know > > Dave: I will follow your advise and use 4200. Most of the pictures I see > have some kind of a sealant. Pretty much all of it will get squeezed out > when the torque is applied anyway. I guess what is left will be whatever is > on the uneven parts under the washer, and perhaps squeezed in into the area > around the bolt. "70'es hot -rod fiberglass sorcery"... That about sums it > up :) You are right they are probably original. > > I will lay up as much fiberglass as I can without removing the nut, to add > width, trying to make the sump area as clean as Rick T. 's pictures show. > I need to use a roller and go slow in order to make sure not to have > voids. Maybe I'll put a 1 inch oak plywood vertically into that area and > then epoxy/glass it in. I am not very familiar with fiberglass work, so > I'll pick some other's brains here. filling in an area of 4 by 7 by 2 > inches with epoxy/fillers and glass may be too much. > > > Rick Taillieu : Thank you very much for the pictures. Your boat looks very > clean even though it is almost as old as mine. > I guess they must have had different people with different skills laying > up these boats. I am starting to get convinced that Tabasco came out of the > factory this way, and they just simply screwed up the sump. On my (picture > 3) <http://www.boatjuggler.com/images/pic3.jpg> you can see at the bottom > part the round area with a hole in it where the glass just seems to have > cured not going across, but simply folded back. > > I should dremel that irregularity off or better, fill it in with thickened > epoxy and lay glass in such a way that it covers the bolt and is nice and > smooth as yours is. That one is the first picture in your series. The one > with two washers, so your sump starts a few inches after the bolt. Also > based on what Gary posted about his 38 C&C I think this boat has been this > way all her life. > So I am not worried about that one as much but just for my piece of mind, > I'll fix that to at least cover the keel bolt and give the rest of the > washer some footing. > Maybe the guy who did my bilge did your hull on the aft end of the keel > sump afterwards :) > > > Rick Brass: Thanks for the info. Tabasco has a anchor locker with a hawse > pipe on the bow. Perhaps someone added a little bulkhead to make an anchor > locker out of the front part of the v-berth. I am pretty sure my surviving > washer and the nuts are galvanized. Not sure about the bolts. > The rusted out washers could have been 42 year old stainless washers. > Interestingly the nuts and washers are identical to what we use at my club > to hold parts of the docks together, so I have plenty of supplies. > > I will order a deep socket from McMaster-Carr and try to see if I can > loosen the nut without using an impact wrench. I do not feel comfortable > subjecting the bilge/keel to the vibration of an impact wrench. I will have > the other washers handy, quickly replace them and tighten the bolt back up. > I am not sure about the torque, I will go to 100 ft-lbs until I find out > exactly what material the bolts and nuts are. > Does that sound about right ? Does anybody have the actual number. > > Again, thanks everybody for all the information > > *Ahmet* > > *Winthrop Yacht Club / Constitution Marina, Boston, MA* > > *1990 Irwin 43 CC "Waterdancer"* > > *1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco"* > > > > > > > > On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 3:20 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Ahmet, >> >> >> >> I uploaded some pictures of my bilge here, >> http://postimg.org/gallery/3eg9rsocy/ >> >> Let me know if the link works for you. >> >> >> >> Rick Taillieu >> >> Nemesis >> >> '75 C&C 25 #371 >> >> Shearwater Yacht Club >> >> Halifax, NS. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ahmet >> via CnC-List >> *Sent:* November-07-15 17:01 >> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Cc:* Ahmet >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Keel attachment issues on a C&C 25 >> >> >> >> Thank you. I would be interested to see if you have a sump area, i.e a 3 >> - 4 inch dropoff in the bilge which then slopes upwards towards the bow. >> I am not sure how come that keel-bolt got exposed. >> >> >> >> I did a search for Tabasco on the list archives, and did not find any >> references. I bought it from an older gentlemen in Marblehead, MA. >> >> >> >> He had been sailing her for a while but health issues have been >> preventing him. The boat was neglected to some point. All the wiring was >> laid up but not connected. The stanchions were leaking. >> >> >> >> Others have told me that too. Maybe it is a familiar sounding name. >> >> >> >> First thing I did is replace the stanchions with the aluminum toerail >> mounted ones and used wooden dowels soaked with 4200 and marinetex to get >> rid of all holes from he old stanctions. So now the cabin is pretty dry. >> The hatch is leaking a bit but I think that is just the rubber gasket. >> >> >> >> He lost the rigging last year so she has brand-new rigging, double, brand >> new heavy lifelines and a 4-stroke 2010 Nissan 9.9 hp engine. >> >> >> >> Thank You >> >> >> >> *Ahmet* >> >> *Winthrop Yacht Club / Constitution Marina, Boston, MA* >> >> *1990 Irwin 43 CC "Waterdancer"* >> >> *1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco"* >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >> bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
_______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
