Josh,
I used Sika 295 UV with the Sika primer to install new windows 6 years
ago....my windows just fit into the cabin side recess with no frames or
screws so the adhesive has to be good. My two forward windows must also
curve when recessed to fit the cabin top so holding them in place to
allow the Sika to cure was an important part of the installation.
From the VHB tape..... "just press with your knee"....even if I had
used VHB tape, I still think I would have braced the windows as I
did.....I cut 2" X 4"'s to lay on the windows and braced against the
toerail with 10lb. on each.....3 pieces of wood per window.
Masking tape inside and outside.....do one window at a time....had Sika
oozing out all around, inside and outside, remove masking tape as soon
as window is braced, before the adhesive sets up which is fine with Sika
295....you have lots of time.
My Acura recently had a windshield replaced.....the adhesive was a Sika
product with a Sika primer.....the guy said the only significant
difference between what I used on my boat windows and the car windshield
was the 'curing time'.....the windshield stuff cures much
faster....understandable from a business perspective.
I like the 'simplicity' of the VHB tape versus the Sika 295 & primer but
if the tape is that good, why haven't the auto windshield industry
converted to it?
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
The attached PDF had pretty good guidance. I would choose the
thickest tape which can still fit under the windows. Maybe even double
layers. I have a friend who used the 4941 series. After looking at
the PDF it looks like the 5952 series has better adhesive qualities
and possibly higher adhesion for the fiberglass and polycarbonate that
we're using. The 5958FR has the highest PSI to thickness ratio. I
suggest thicker to allow the tape to press into any irregularities.
Thicker also allows for more differential expansion of the glass and
frame.
As much as I like the VHB tape I still can't help but think to the
auto industry. They use a urethane made by Sika for windshields. It
has to be primed and heated. It cures in about an hour. I wonder if
a combination of VHB tape and sika-flex might be smart. VHB to get a
nice interior finish and sika for a permanent weatherproof bond and
glazing.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 10, 2015 9:54 AM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List"
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Rob,
Yikes! Thanks for the info. How to choose?
Gary
~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
On Tue, Nov 10, 2015 at 9:33 AM, robert via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Dave:
I am no VHB expert.....have never used the stuff. I
understand there are many different versions, at least that
what I get from the website below.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/67100O/3mtm-vhb-tapes.pdf
Point being, make sure you get the right tape for the job you
intend to use it.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-11-09 8:40 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed
ports on my boat over the last few days and and paying close
attention. After absorbing a good bit of the info in the
thread and the links provided, I’m planning on moving away
from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my grandfather
it’s good enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. Seems the
more modern ticket to me.
I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than
using Plexus, certainly if it is just one person doing the job.
Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
On Nov 9, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Was afraid of that. The only ports close to the new C&C
ports I've done were on a Beneteau. Don't remember how hard
the adhesive was.
Dennis C.
On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Dennis,
I'm quite sure those blades would work well for
soft calk like silicones or urethanes, but Plexus is
hard as a rock and I don't think they would work. In
addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom
window joint that is very close to the turn on the deck.
Gary
S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso)
1990 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
wrote:
Not quite the same thing but lately I've been
removing ports that were held in with sealant by
using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade.
Like these:
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S
http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html
Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika
adhesives.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
"Wow! You guys are lucky! My Windows came out in pieces with
significant gel coat damage."
Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)
Mike Amirault
Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii
SMSC
_______________________________________________
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including
unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including
unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing
-- go to the bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
go to the bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go
to the bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to
the bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
