Hi, i did this job last summer using 3M VHB tape. My boat is a '87 vintage 33 MKII, with the split sharp angles ports. Under the advice of don Casey, from Sail Magazine, i bought a roll of the following: "The tape to use is 3M VHB 4991, which is 2.3 millimeters thick. Select 1/2in width." This is not excactly the same tape used by Boatworks today, wich is specified in the written presentation of the video, but i had enough space for 1/2 inch wide and the 3M 4991 had good technical specs that seems to fit the project. The tape is a bit thick and the window protrude juste a little bit more than before but it's still ok. I applied it the same way Boatwork does and it is easy. I did not found a way to buy the DOW 795 silicone from any source in Canada so i used SIKA product, the UV resistant one with a cheap "primer in a stick" sold by Boulet Lemelin, but not on their web site. the acrilyc is tinted and the tape does not show trough (no paint needed). After a year of hard saling racing and twisting the boat, everything looks good, BUT i did have a small leak in one corner at the end of the season that i am not able to pinpoint yet, everything seems firmly sealed. I guess the silicone would have been better... The tape is strong enough to hold the port in place even if the slithly curved shape of the cabintop. The ports were previously installed with butyl tape and screws. The installation was ok for few years until the corner screws stripped and the corners started to separate allowing water in. I decided to try the tape this time and plug the old holes with thickened epoxy. I had to sand old Plexus residues and fair the surface with époxy, sand and clean (acetone) and clean again (isopropyl alcool)...to have a good surface for the tape. It can be a one person job, but it is not that easy to hold the window and stick it leveled with an even gap around. Remember these are no small ports, and mine are not even that big being sprit in the middle. And i had to learn it the hard way...Yes i screwed it the first time. It slipped of my fingers and... too late, it was stuck on the tape! Shit!! I had to very quickly remove the acrilyc that was partly installed and begin all over again. Not easy to remove the tape but doable. I tried the match stick method to space the window but ended up feel the gap with my fingers and with luck it was a success! See article: http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/ask-sail/replacing-fixed-portlights/
It is available in Canada from Uline.ca: http://www.uline.ca/BL_6074/3M-4991-VHB-Acrylic-Foam-Tape I had to buy a 36 yds roll, not cheap. Excuse my english! second language. Bruno Lachance Bécassine, '87 33 mkII New-Richmond, Qc Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2015 09:40:05 -0500 To: robertabb...@eastlink.ca Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: dave.god...@me.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Rob, Agreed. When thinking about the tape I did a quick Internet search and came up with many versions of the VHB tape. I use a software package (OmniFocus) for project planning and under the “Fixed Ports Repair” list of actions is a new one to investigate the types of adhesive in more detail. With a completion date a good ways in the future I’m afraid... Best,Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit On Nov 10, 2015, at 9:33 AM, robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca> wrote: Dave: I am no VHB expert.....have never used the stuff. I understand there are many different versions, at least that what I get from the website below. http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/67100O/3mtm-vhb-tapes.pdf Point being, make sure you get the right tape for the job you intend to use it. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-11-09 8:40 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote: More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on my boat over the last few days and and paying close attention. After absorbing a good bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, I’m planning on moving away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my grandfather it’s good enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. Seems the more modern ticket to me. I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than using Plexus, certainly if it is just one person doing the job. Cheers, Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Ronin’s Overdue Refit On Nov 9, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Was afraid of that. The only ports close to the new C&C ports I've done were on a Beneteau. Don't remember how hard the adhesive was. Dennis C. On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Hi Dennis, I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk like silicones or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I don't think they would work. In addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom window joint that is very close to the turn on the deck. Gary S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso) 1990 C&C 37 Plus East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~ On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were held in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade. Like these: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: "Wow! You guys are lucky! My Windows came out in pieces with significant gel coat damage." Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;) Mike Amirault Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii SMSC _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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