Probably Smiths penetrating epoxy.  http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/

Dennis C.

On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 1:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available
> in pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like
> that) is recommended for direct application to new wood because of its
> penetrating power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the
> underside of the sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not
> for the topside of the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
>
> FWIW
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> North Carolina
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
> Sent: Tue, Jan 26, 2016 2:41 pm
> Subject: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole
>
> I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and
> holly and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully
> especially since the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
>
> I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and
> Holly and noted a few things that time that I may do differently
>
> My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my
> garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I
> also plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the
> niches are cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and
> the top of the sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be
> up to 6 coats of epiphanes on the top of the sole
>
> Epoxy on wood:
> The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.
> I believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.
> I have never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again
> start with the underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the
> levelling properties and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan
> to use West with the slow hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks
> good I will then put one coat on top of sole as a base before the varnish.
> It is my intention to do this over the winter in my garage which is in the
> basement of my house but not heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10
> degrees Celcius (50F)
>
> Varnish over epoxy:
> On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of
> several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the
> two main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I
> cut out the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy
> under the varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or
> damp spin and jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the
> varnish and even the wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its
> way into the finish from this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang
> on but the damage, although superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the
> epoxy layer beneath several coats of varnish will prevent this
> discolouration in the event a wet item spends significant time on the
> sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry inside but some
> water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
>
> Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there
> any other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a
> relatively simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very
> obvious for years to come …
>
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
>
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