I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside of the sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not for the topside of the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed. FWIW Charlie Nelson Water Phantom North Carolina cenel...@aol.com
-----Original Message----- From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com> Sent: Tue, Jan 26, 2016 2:41 pm Subject: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole I am replacing the original sole on Persistence. It was ¾ inch teak and holly and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet. Thankfully especially since the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes! I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and noted a few things that time that I may do differently My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my garage already. It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I also plan to do with the replacement. Once cut out the piece and all the niches are cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and the top of the sole with one coat of epoxy. Following that there will be up to 6 coats of epiphanes on the top of the sole Epoxy on wood: The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly. I believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener. I have never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start with the underside to see how this works out. Any comments on the levelling properties and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed. I plan to use West with the slow hardener. If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat on top of sole as a base before the varnish. It is my intention to do this over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house but not heated. Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F) Varnish over epoxy: On the J27 I made one small mistake. The sole in the J27 was comprised of several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the two main halves. It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I cut out the panel that is forward near head compartment. With no epoxy under the varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the wood itself. On top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from this. After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage, although superficial, was done. Am assuming that the epoxy layer beneath several coats of varnish will prevent this discolouration in the event a wet item spends significant time on the sole. Any comments on this? Persistence is quite dry inside but some water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole. Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there any other pearls of wisdom before I start this project? It seems a relatively simple project but also one where a misstep will be very obvious for years to come … Mike Persistence Halifax _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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