Mike:
I haven't replaced the cabin sole but I have painted:
1. the underside of the teak and holly sole with West System
Resin.....two coats with the slow hardener....applied with a foam
brush....flowed evenly.....worked just fine.
2. have never applied resin to the topside.....not sure I would do that,
mainly for aesthetics reasons.....I painted mine with Ultrasole, 6 coats
and that was 7 or 8 years ago.....still looks fine. I don't have any
Ultrasole left, not sure if it still on the market so if I do the
topside again, I will use varnish.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C7c 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2016-01-26 3:40 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
I am replacing the original sole on Persistence. It was ¾ inch teak
and holly and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.
Thankfully especially since the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD
after taxes!
I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and
Holly and noted a few things that time that I may do differently
My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in
my garage already. It was screwed in place with countersunk screws
which I also plan to do with the replacement. Once cut out the piece
and all the niches are cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both
the underside and the top of the sole with one coat of epoxy.
Following that there will be up to 6 coats of epiphanes on the top of
the sole
Epoxy on wood:
The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow
evenly. I believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than
slow hardener. I have never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on
wood so will again start with the underside to see how this works
out. Any comments on the levelling properties and techniques with
epoxy would be welcomed. I plan to use West with the slow hardener.
If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat on
top of sole as a base before the varnish. It is my intention to do
this over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house
but not heated. Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius
(50F)
Varnish over epoxy:
On the J27 I made one small mistake. The sole in the J27 was
comprised of several panels and I did not think to line up the holly
stripes between the two main halves. It bothered only me but will not
occur this time when I cut out the panel that is forward near head
compartment. With no epoxy under the varnish and a wet boat like the
J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and jib sheets on the sole
in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the wood itself. On
top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from this.
After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage,
although superficial, was done. Am assuming that the epoxy layer
beneath several coats of varnish will prevent this discolouration in
the event a wet item spends significant time on the sole. Any
comments on this? Persistence is quite dry inside but some water does
come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are
there any other pearls of wisdom before I start this project? It
seems a relatively simple project but also one where a misstep will
be very obvious for years to come …
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
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