My 40 has a 1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom with a
Schaefer Jiffy reef slide/bail that slides up and down the track so you can
position the clew attachment point for multiple mainsail reef points.  The
reefing line goes through a hook that you use to select which reefing
cringle you want to use.

Robbie Epstein

1980 C&C 40 

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Boom fittings for reefing attachments (Hoyt, Mike)
   2. Re:  Ground loop? (Ryan Doyle)
   3. Re:  Boom fittings for reefing attachments (Gary Nylander)
   4. Re:  Ground loop? (Frederick G Street)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 12:49:10 +0000
From: "Hoyt, Mike" <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments
Message-ID:
        <169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f130...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Josh

The 2007 C&C115 that we race and the 2008 C&C99 that I sail on both are just
tied around the boom.  I think that more or less says this is still how it
is done.  Our own ancient Frers 33 also tied around a painted boom.  No wear
on paint on the two C&Cs and the wear I see on the Frers boom is not from
the reef line.

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33
Halifax, NS

In the water since Monday!

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 5:46 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments


Yeah Paul, I had considered doing that.  I also considered having a single
piece of rod drilled and tapped at the correct distance for my selected pad
eye fitting.

I'm just kinda trying to figure out what others do.  Everybody else just tie
it to the boom?

Thanks for the idea, lets keep 'em coming.

Josh
On Apr 8, 2016 1:37 AM, "Paul Baker via CnC-List"
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
You could perhaps find an eye nut that would fit onto a stopper that you
pictured instead of the knurled nut.
Cheers,
Paul.
________________________________
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2016 23:17:44 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
CC: muckl...@gmail.com<mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>

Ok guys (& gals),

I just had my boom repainted and as a result this has been a great time to
rebuild and replace all the associated pieces and parts.  The boom wasn't
made with any place to attach reefing lines.  Previously I had simply tied
them with a bowline on a bite around the boom.  It works but I'm a little
apprehensive of the aesthetics and of the possible chaffing/wear on the new
paint.  So I was toying with options.  I thought about installing pad eyes
on the top or the bottom of the boom with machine screws.  I'm not sure how
well the fasteners would handle the stress and it means drilling holes.  It
also means removing the sail pack would be an even bigger pain in the butt.
I also considered having something in the boom track kinda like a slug stop
which would allow me to install a pad eye and slide it up and down the track
to its optimal position before fully tighten the screws to lock it in place.
See the attached picture of a slug stop.  I was kinda hoping someone made
this type of thing (a pad eye anchored in a bolt rope track) but all I could
find was the harken bat-car system and it is designed to mount a track and
then have a car ride on the track.  This seems costly and adds what seems
like considerable clew height.  The clew height may be inconsequential since
the tack height is normally elevated from the boom anyway.

Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S l/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 09:42:58 -0400
From: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ground loop?
Message-ID: <9b4f5989-2ac2-4d33-aa31-7a2e86cd4...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=us-ascii

Thanks guys for the educated guesses and thanks Joe for the insight and
advice.

Some sort of lightning arrest system was my first guess, but I thought it
was odd that the mast wasn't connected to it... Which would be essential for
a lightning system.  I hadn't considered an old short wave or Loran setup.  

I'm going to disconnect it.  Thanks again and enjoy the weekend.

Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C&C 30mki
New York




------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 10:02:44 -0400
From: "Gary Nylander" <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments
Message-ID: <004401d1919f$62328280$26978780$@atlanticbb.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

On my ancient 30-1, the factory installed two stout pad-eyes on the port
side of the boom and two cheek blocks on the opposite side. Reefing line(s)
run from pad-eye up through cringle in sail, down to cheek block and then
forward to a winch on the starboard side of the boom. This assures that the
reefed foot of the sail is pulled taut against the boom. A bit ugly, but
effective in keeping the sail flat.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 7, 2016 11:18 PM
To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

 

Ok guys (& gals), 

I just had my boom repainted and as a result this has been a great time to
rebuild and replace all the associated pieces and parts.  The boom wasn't
made with any place to attach reefing lines.  Previously I had simply tied
them with a bowline on a bite around the boom.  It works but I'm a little
apprehensive of the aesthetics and of the possible chaffing/wear on the new
paint.  So I was toying with options.  I thought about installing pad eyes
on the top or the bottom of the boom with machine screws.  I'm not sure how
well the fasteners would handle the stress and it means drilling holes.  It
also means removing the sail pack would be an even bigger pain in the butt.
I also considered having something in the boom track kinda like a slug stop
which would allow me to install a pad eye and slide it up and down the track
to its optimal position before fully tighten the screws to lock it in place.
See the attached picture of a slug stop.  I was kinda hoping someone made
this type of thing (a pad eye anchored in a bolt rope track) but all I could
find was the harken bat-car system and it is designed to mount a track and
then have a car ride on the track.  This seems costly and adds what seems
like considerable clew height.  The clew height may be inconsequential since
the tack height is normally elevated from the boom anyway.

Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S l/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 09:18:01 -0500
From: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ground loop?
Message-ID: <50f18710-e207-4311-ae89-32e382de8...@postaudio.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I?m coming down on the side of a ground plate for LORAN, as somebody else
mentioned.  If it were my boat, I?d probably pull the plate at the next haul
out and repair the holes in the hull.

As far as a ground loop goes, they?re pretty common in audio and RF systems;
I?m going to stick with audio as that?s my experience base.  Let?s say you
have two audio devices a ways apart, each powered by a local AC outlet.  You
connect an audio path between those two devices, including a wire that
attaches the ground points of each.  If there?s any voltage differential
between the AC grounds of the two devices (more common than you?d think, for
a variety of reasons), you then get voltage trying to equalize itself over
both the AC grounds AND the audio ground you established when you connected
the audio run.  This will manifest itself in a buzz in the audio, generally
at 60Hz and its harmonic frequencies (120Hz, 240Hz, etc.).

Basically any time you have voltage differential with two different paths
between devices, you can have a ground loop.

I also agree with Joe about having everything terminate for ground at the
engine; I usually advise putting in a Blue Sea bus bar with a single large
wire to the engine, then terminate the grounds at the bus bar.  It makes
things much cleaner, and usually much easier to work on and more reliable,
as you don?t have a hole bunch of wires subject to constant engine
vibration.

? Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 7, 2016, at 9:26 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Sounds like the PO may have been misinformed, or overly cautious, and
figured more is better.  
>  
> Someday will someone explain to me the concept/theory of a ground loop?
I?m looking at you Fred.
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2016 5:59 PM
> To: cnc-list
> Cc: Ken Heaton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ground loop?
>  
> Did the boat ever have a shortwave radio?
>  
> Was a previous owner afraid of a lightning strike?
>  
> Just guessing.
>  
> Ken H.
>  
> On 7 April 2016 at 18:20, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I am in the home stretch of re-wiring my entire boat.  The wiring was in
frightening shape when I bought it back in October - much of it was corroded
and probably original, and there were numerous "bad fixes" that I didn't
like the looks of.  So, I ripped it all out and started anew with a whole
bunch of Ancor marine wire, a BlueSea panel, BlueSea fuse blocks, and went
about re-wiring.
> 
> All negative wires connect back to the nut at the back of my A4 motor,
which is also connected to my battery negatives.  All good.
> 
> However, there is one large gauge (maybe 10 gauge?) old wire going from
the nut on the back of my A4 to a nut attached to a metal plate that is
attached to the outside of the hull.  This metal plate is located slightly
forward and to starboard of the front of the A4.  Another wire coming from
the nut over this metal plate is also connected to a keel bolt.
> 
> I don't see this plate or wire on the original C&C wiring diagram for the
boat.  And from what I know, having more than one negative point outside the
hull will create a ground loop.  
> 
> Any thoughts on why someone did this?  
> 
> Thanks,
> Ryan
> Nobody's Bargain
> 1976 C&C 30 mki
> New York

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